Tile on tile

[charlie1]

I can't understand why you'd coat it with a slurry though, surely a polymer modified adhesive would be better, assuming existing tiles were sebum/grease free?

First thing I done was clean them with sugar soap, then used my cupped grinder to score up the front of them. I wasn't entirely happy that I'd ground them up enough as they where glazed ceramics so I applied slurry to provide a more coarse surface... Which it did. Ardex xr7 and sbr once dried I know I'll have no issues.

 

[Dougs Third Go]

First thing I done was clean them with sugar soap, then used my cupped grinder to score up the front of them. I wasn't entirely happy that I'd ground them up enough as they where glazed ceramics so I applied slurry to provide a more coarse surface... Which it did. Ardex xr7 and sbr once dried I know I'll have no issues.

it'd be easier to knock the buggers off.

 

[charlie1]

it'd be easier to knock the buggers off.

highly doubt it! Certainly wouldn't have been easier on clients bank acc! On a different day with different budget then yes Doug but as you know, there more than one way to skin a cat.

 

[Dougs Third Go]

highly doubt it! Certainly wouldn't have been easier on clients bank acc! On a different day with different budget then yes Doug but as you know, there more than one way to skin a cat.

deviating from Dave's thread, but all depends on substrate to my thinking. Far easier to rip out plasterboard wall and tile afresh from a blank canvas, but hey-ho, we all have our thoughts.

 

[The Legend; Phil Hobson RIP]

Surprisingly solid !!! but i'am not happy about three layers ! so i will include a hacking -off and re rendering price ! and see if the customer wants to remove them . thus not putting them off by being seen to inflate the bill :smilewinkgrin: right or wrong :smilewinkgrin:

The old twin-tiles fixed the old floated coat method take some shifting, it was scratch, coat, render, fill frog(back skim tile with 1.1 opc/sand, bang them into very green render, same day Oldham Baths were done this way 40 years back, still on last time i did some patching there a few years back, you hit them with a lump hamer stand back, it is like hitting steel. Depends what the top coat was fixed with.

 

[charlie1]

The old twin-tiles fixed the old floated coat method take some shifting, it was scratch, coat, render, fill frog(back skim tile with 1.1 opc/sand, bang them into very green render, same day Oldham Baths were done this way 40 years back, still on last time i did some patching there a few years back, you hit them with a lump hamer stand back, it is like hitting steel. Depends what the top coat was fixed with.

Dont want to hijack this thread phil but I have a question for you. I'm alwYs amazed at how well sand and cement fixed tiles bond to the screed! It seems like it would be to dry to get a bite. Do you wet the backs of the tile with water or primer prior to battering it in to the screed?

 

[Diamond Pool Finishers]

The old twin-tiles fixed the old floated coat method take some shifting, it was scratch, coat, render, fill frog(back skim tile with 1.1 opc/sand, bang them into very green render, same day Oldham Baths were done this way 40 years back, still on last time i did some patching there a few years back, you hit them with a lump hamer stand back, it is like hitting steel. Depends what the top coat was fixed with.

I know what you mean Phil, but these two sets of tile are clearly thin set as i could see it through the layers, but as i said surprisingly solid .....

 

[The Legend; Phil Hobson RIP]

Dont want to hijack this thread phil but I have a question for you. I'm alwYs amazed at how well sand and cement fixed tiles bond to the screed! It seems like it would be to dry to get a bite. Do you wet the backs of the tile with water or primer prior to battering it in to the screed?

Yes Mark ceramics were put in a soaking drum (oil drum) with top removed overnight myj job as an apprentice in the depths of winter was to break the ice on the top of the soaking drum, remove my coat, jumper, tee shirt and start to remove the tiles, and put them to drain just off upright, this alllowes the excess water to run out of the bisquit, the top rows not so bad, but as you get up to your elbows then you realy start to feel the cold.

As you got to the bottom most lads used to use a beer crate, to stand on to get the very bottom ones that bit was always fun, by this time you try to balace on your workpants to stop them getting wet, you were not alowed, site water was stored, I must admit I had been known to tip some out as I soon found out time after time if your balance was off the crate slips backwards and you are in deep do, All you had to do then was dry off I always used my coat first to get rid of the freezing, then a bit with the jumper, put on tee shirt, put on coat, Blue by then you can do a few star for a bit.

Next you can get in the house, tilers went in just after the brikies, so the doors and windows frames not in so now we have icy winds blowing anound us.

Quarries, where either brushed on the back with opc slurry, or peppererd with opc onto the 3.1 Sand and Cement fairly wetish screed

Fiction or Truth? Have guess?

 

[Dougs Third Go]

beer crates were death traps Phil, as an apprentice (plasterer) was skimming a closet ceiling stood on a beer crate, half a sweep out one corner, half a sweep backhand out the other corner, beer crate tipped and hit me right in the shins,,,I think it's still in orbit now!

 

[widler]

beer crates were death traps Phil, as an apprentice (plasterer) was skimming a closet ceiling stood on a beer crate, half a sweep out one corner, half a sweep backhand out the other corner, beer crate tipped and hit me right in the shins,,,I think it's still in orbit now!

Ive a dent in my shin from crates from skimming ceilings of em int 80s its a consent reminder to 'stand in the middle of the crate you ####'
As well as the thought of the pain, god it hurts

 

[charlie1]

Yes Mark ceramics were put in a soaking drum (oil drum) with top removed overnight myj job as an apprentice in the depths of winter was to break the ice on the top of the soaking drum, remove my coat, jumper, tee shirt and start to remove the tiles, and put them to drain just off upright, this alllowes the excess water to run out of the bisquit, the top rows not so bad, but as you get up to your elbows then you realy start to feel the cold.

As you got to the bottom most lads used to use a beer crate, to stand on to get the very bottom ones that bit was always fun, by this time you try to balace on your workpants to stop them getting wet, you were not alowed, site water was stored, I must admit I had been known to tip some out as I soon found out time after time if your balance was off the crate slips backwards and you are in deep do, All you had to do then was dry off I always used my coat first to get rid of the freezing, then a bit with the jumper, put on tee shirt, put on coat, Blue by then you can do a few star for a bit.

Next you can get in the house, tilers went in just after the brikies, so the doors and windows frames not in so now we have icy winds blowing anound us.

Quarries, where either brushed on the back with opc slurry, or peppererd with opc onto the 3.1 Sand and Cement fairly wetish screed

Fiction or Truth? Have guess?

respect!! I can believe it to be true! Aye your a hard bunch all you old timers!

 

[afright]

Many a time I would get there before the tilers get there muck ready and break the ice in the drum to get the tiles out,I ended up making a hole in the bottom of the drum and putting a wooden bung in,so every morning pulled the bung out and let it drain away saves on your hands freezing.