Tile on tile

D

Diamond Pool Finishers

When to see a pool today and customer is looking to over-tile the whole pool ! as i was giving it a good look over i could see other tiles underneath the tile at the surface ! :yikes: it all seemed very solid though, so the question is would you go for a further re-tile or suggest you hack-off and start again bering in mind it is a swimming pool in daily operation ??????:thumbsup:
 
ive never been a fan of tile on tile, but tile on tile on tile...would you guarantee it ? I wouldn't...
 
Surprisingly solid !!! but i'am not happy about three layers ! so i will include a hacking -off and re rendering price ! and see if the customer wants to remove them . thus not putting them off by being seen to inflate the bill :smilewinkgrin: right or wrong :smilewinkgrin:
 
What you need is a few tins of Ardex neoprene primer. (probably now completely illegal).

Paint that on the existing tiles, stand in the room for about 15 minutes. You then won't care what you're doing with the tiles and probably won't even be able to find the door to leave the room. :thumbsup:
 
it'll end up looking like this if you don't strip it back lol!

hydrotherapy9906.jpg
 
I got really exited years ago Doug, after doing a domestic pool for a famous horse trainer as he asked me about doing an equine pool for his stables , so i ended -up going to Lambourne to see some that were in service , i even had visions of myself building them all-over the uk 🙂 but as most good idears there was already company s specialising in them !!!!!!! never mind Oh and we never got his job ether lol.....
 
ive tiled on tile on a pool but never tiled on tile on tile um ye ive just confused myself now
 
One of the jobs I have been doing this week is on top of tiles. The tiles are solid and I'm retiling with ceramics. I have coated the lot with a slurry. I have also made sure the new installation is completely plumb. Sometimes you have to do what you have to do.
 
One of the jobs I have been doing this week is on top of tiles. The tiles are solid and I'm retiling with ceramics. I have coated the lot with a slurry. I have also made sure the new installation is completely plumb. Sometimes you have to do what you have to do.
I can't understand why you'd coat it with a slurry though, surely a polymer modified adhesive would be better, assuming existing tiles were sebum/grease free?
 
I can't understand why you'd coat it with a slurry though, surely a polymer modified adhesive would be better, assuming existing tiles were sebum/grease free?

First thing I done was clean them with sugar soap, then used my cupped grinder to score up the front of them. I wasn't entirely happy that I'd ground them up enough as they where glazed ceramics so I applied slurry to provide a more coarse surface... Which it did. Ardex xr7 and sbr once dried I know I'll have no issues.
 
First thing I done was clean them with sugar soap, then used my cupped grinder to score up the front of them. I wasn't entirely happy that I'd ground them up enough as they where glazed ceramics so I applied slurry to provide a more coarse surface... Which it did. Ardex xr7 and sbr once dried I know I'll have no issues.
it'd be easier to knock the buggers off.
 
highly doubt it! Certainly wouldn't have been easier on clients bank acc! On a different day with different budget then yes Doug but as you know, there more than one way to skin a cat.
deviating from Dave's thread, but all depends on substrate to my thinking. Far easier to rip out plasterboard wall and tile afresh from a blank canvas, but hey-ho, we all have our thoughts.
 
Surprisingly solid !!! but i'am not happy about three layers ! so i will include a hacking -off and re rendering price ! and see if the customer wants to remove them . thus not putting them off by being seen to inflate the bill :smilewinkgrin: right or wrong :smilewinkgrin:
The old twin-tiles fixed the old floated coat method take some shifting, it was scratch, coat, render, fill frog(back skim tile with 1.1 opc/sand, bang them into very green render, same day Oldham Baths were done this way 40 years back, still on last time i did some patching there a few years back, you hit them with a lump hamer stand back, it is like hitting steel. Depends what the top coat was fixed with.
 
The old twin-tiles fixed the old floated coat method take some shifting, it was scratch, coat, render, fill frog(back skim tile with 1.1 opc/sand, bang them into very green render, same day Oldham Baths were done this way 40 years back, still on last time i did some patching there a few years back, you hit them with a lump hamer stand back, it is like hitting steel. Depends what the top coat was fixed with.
Dont want to hijack this thread phil but I have a question for you. I'm alwYs amazed at how well sand and cement fixed tiles bond to the screed! It seems like it would be to dry to get a bite. Do you wet the backs of the tile with water or primer prior to battering it in to the screed?
 
The old twin-tiles fixed the old floated coat method take some shifting, it was scratch, coat, render, fill frog(back skim tile with 1.1 opc/sand, bang them into very green render, same day Oldham Baths were done this way 40 years back, still on last time i did some patching there a few years back, you hit them with a lump hamer stand back, it is like hitting steel. Depends what the top coat was fixed with.
I know what you mean Phil, but these two sets of tile are clearly thin set as i could see it through the layers, but as i said surprisingly solid .....
 
Dont want to hijack this thread phil but I have a question for you. I'm alwYs amazed at how well sand and cement fixed tiles bond to the screed! It seems like it would be to dry to get a bite. Do you wet the backs of the tile with water or primer prior to battering it in to the screed?

Yes Mark ceramics were put in a soaking drum (oil drum) with top removed overnight myj job as an apprentice in the depths of winter was to break the ice on the top of the soaking drum, remove my coat, jumper, tee shirt and start to remove the tiles, and put them to drain just off upright, this alllowes the excess water to run out of the bisquit, the top rows not so bad, but as you get up to your elbows then you realy start to feel the cold.

As you got to the bottom most lads used to use a beer crate, to stand on to get the very bottom ones that bit was always fun, by this time you try to balace on your workpants to stop them getting wet, you were not alowed, site water was stored, I must admit I had been known to tip some out as I soon found out time after time if your balance was off the crate slips backwards and you are in deep do, All you had to do then was dry off I always used my coat first to get rid of the freezing, then a bit with the jumper, put on tee shirt, put on coat, Blue by then you can do a few star for a bit.

Next you can get in the house, tilers went in just after the brikies, so the doors and windows frames not in so now we have icy winds blowing anound us.

Quarries, where either brushed on the back with opc slurry, or peppererd with opc onto the 3.1 Sand and Cement fairly wetish screed

Fiction or Truth? Have guess?
 
beer crates were death traps Phil, as an apprentice (plasterer) was skimming a closet ceiling stood on a beer crate, half a sweep out one corner, half a sweep backhand out the other corner, beer crate tipped and hit me right in the shins,,,I think it's still in orbit now!
 
beer crates were death traps Phil, as an apprentice (plasterer) was skimming a closet ceiling stood on a beer crate, half a sweep out one corner, half a sweep backhand out the other corner, beer crate tipped and hit me right in the shins,,,I think it's still in orbit now!

Ive a dent in my shin from crates from skimming ceilings of em int 80s its a consent reminder to 'stand in the middle of the crate you ####'
As well as the thought of the pain, god it hurts
 
Yes Mark ceramics were put in a soaking drum (oil drum) with top removed overnight myj job as an apprentice in the depths of winter was to break the ice on the top of the soaking drum, remove my coat, jumper, tee shirt and start to remove the tiles, and put them to drain just off upright, this alllowes the excess water to run out of the bisquit, the top rows not so bad, but as you get up to your elbows then you realy start to feel the cold.

As you got to the bottom most lads used to use a beer crate, to stand on to get the very bottom ones that bit was always fun, by this time you try to balace on your workpants to stop them getting wet, you were not alowed, site water was stored, I must admit I had been known to tip some out as I soon found out time after time if your balance was off the crate slips backwards and you are in deep do, All you had to do then was dry off I always used my coat first to get rid of the freezing, then a bit with the jumper, put on tee shirt, put on coat, Blue by then you can do a few star for a bit.

Next you can get in the house, tilers went in just after the brikies, so the doors and windows frames not in so now we have icy winds blowing anound us.

Quarries, where either brushed on the back with opc slurry, or peppererd with opc onto the 3.1 Sand and Cement fairly wetish screed

Fiction or Truth? Have guess?

respect!! I can believe it to be true! Aye your a hard bunch all you old timers!
 
Many a time I would get there before the tilers get there muck ready and break the ice in the drum to get the tiles out,I ended up making a hole in the bottom of the drum and putting a wooden bung in,so every morning pulled the bung out and let it drain away saves on your hands freezing.
 

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