Tiling a porch step

[ern]

Hello everyone and happy new year to you all.

I need some advice, I have to tile the step on my porch. It is constructed with brick which is covered in red floor paint, ( i guess). The construction is absolutely solid although there is a crack in it . However when checking the level it is all over theplace, probably 25 mill out from front to back.

I was going to sand the paint, (only to give a key not to completely strip it), and then working from the highest point using screws to get a level across the entire step, i.e putting a screw in say an 1/8 above the highest point then additional screws in all directions level with the highest one. Once this is done I was going to use SLC then, hopefully start tiling on a nice level surface.

My questions are

1) Does the above sound ok or is there a better / easier way.

2) Is there a SLC for exterior use and will it cope with the 25 mm

3) Do i have to put a membrane over the crack or just fill it with addy, Its about 8 inches long and 3 mm wide

4) Is there a special addy you would need to use for outside tiling.

Hope you can help

Thanks - Ernie

 

[bigandy]

Hello everyone and happy new year to you all.

I need some advice, I have to tile the step on my porch. It is constructed with brick which is covered in red floor paint, ( i guess). The construction is absolutely solid although there is a crack in it . However when checking the level it is all over theplace, probably 25 mill out from front to back.

I was going to sand the paint, (only to give a key not to completely strip it), and then working from the highest point using screws to get a level across the entire step, i.e putting a screw in say an 1/8 above the highest point then additional screws in all directions level with the highest one. Once this is done I was going to use SLC then, hopefully start tiling on a nice level surface.

My questions are

1) Does the above sound ok or is there a better / easier way.

2) Is there a SLC for exterior use and will it cope with the 25 mm

3) Do i have to put a membrane over the crack or just fill it with addy, Its about 8 inches long and 3 mm wide

4) Is there a special addy you would need to use for outside tiling.

Hope you can help

Thanks - Ernie

Hi Ern,

My first concern is with the crack is it stable? ie, any more movement?as this would only be transfered through to your tiles and crack them in turn.

The step has probably settled or the slope is to allow the water to run off.

Self levelling compound can be bought now that will level upto 50mm in one go!!normal can only be done a few milli thick.

You will definately be lookig at using flexible addy's and grouts to cope!

Before you spend any money on adhesive's tiles ect i woul;d be looking at the movement issue first and foremost.We dont like to see good money thrown after bad!!

 

[marke]

Hi ern,
Have you not thought about just knockin out the step and starting again ? Might just be cheaper and less hassle in the long run.
I have seen this happen a few times when after spending good money and buyin all the right gear , fact is, its moved before hence the crack so i would start again if at all poss mate.

Good Luck
Mark

 

[ern]

Thanks guys for your responses, having chacked the crack it is absoloutly sound, no movement whatsoever. As for the slope, although the porch is outside it is enclosed so it dosn't get wet when it rains, the hose is 1930s built and I have yet to come across a straight edge anywhere!

I hear what you say Marke but to be honest I dont really want to remove the step and start again.
I will get a second opinion on the crack though

I have a tiling book which talks about anti fracture membranes for cracks in solid bases. Does nayopne know about these? Also is the method I mentioned with the screws OK to establish a level to pour slc


Ta Ern

 

[grumpygrouter]

Is the step high or low at the front Ern?

 

[ern]

Its low at the front, grumpy

 

[grumpygrouter]

In that case it is probably there yo allow the water to run off. if you level off you might end up with any water getting on to it getting in the house.

Decoupling membranes are designed to allow lateral movement of the substrate and not effect the tiles surface. It depends how big the crack is that you are trying to bridge! if it is a large crack and stable, then fill it first and allow to set then (after levelling if you are going to do so) lay your decoupling membrane than tile. Check out our sponsors Schluter for thier Ditra matting and also Wetdecs for the Durabase version. They are quite easy to apply and if you do a search in the box at the top for "ditra" you will find somes posts come up with installation videos in them.

 

[ern]

Thanks grumpy, as i mentioned the step does not get wet at all as it is enclosed so I am confident that levelling it willbe ok. Would my screw method I mentioned in the first thread be ok? I presume the crack can be filled with adhesive or would cement be better?? Also out of interest if Iwas just to tile the step following the fall as long as it was flatI assume i would be ok to just follow the fall ??Sorry to be a pain but appreciate the advice

 

[bigandy]

just a quick idea now we have a little more info why not shutter off with some old wood and level with some concrete?you could even extend the step so your tile cuts are at a nice size!or even no cuts!!

 

[ern]

Thanks Andy, I was thinking of concrete but do I then have to wait 6 weeks for it to dry out ??

 

[bigandy]

Technically you will have to wait yes.Thats if you do it all by the book but would have thought it really would nt take that long to dry.I was really suggesting it was a way of getting the most out of your step.
So may be slc is a faster way of completing the job.You can always use the wood shuttering as a stop for slc. Just mix the way the slc pack tells you with exact amounts of water.

 

[ern]

Many thanks big andy, much appreciated.