Tiling my kitchen and dining area

[macworm]

Hi, just joined, I've got a kitchen and dinining area to tile so will be looking through for some advice - in the following areas

using porcelain tiles - do they need priming all over or just the edges and the bottom

Dinning area had thermoplastic tiles from the sixties so has black residue - well stuck, does it need removing or should I just put on a leveler or SBR?

Wife has seen some 'vitrified' porcelain tiles are these better?

Only ever used ceramics before and the tiles the wife is looking at are large formats with sharp edges so thinking they might be beyond me - any tips on avoiding kicks at joins - thinking maybe I need to get in a pro.

Thanks

 

[akinsontiles]

The black residue is probably some form of asphalt based adhesive but the tiles that were taken away may have been asbestos based so I would take care when removing the residue. In my experience it will need to come up and then self level the area prior to tiling.

With the floor level you should be able to achieve a flat and even floor without lips so long as your seration of adhesive is consistent and you take adequate time on laying the tiles.

The retailer of the tiles you are looking to use should advise you best on sealing the tiles but the sealing of the back of the tiles is a grey area as it could prevent the adhesive from bonding with the tile. you need to check that out with whichever adhesive manufaturer you are using. Sealing the reverse side of the tile is good practice to prevent staining from the adhesive being seen on the finished side of the tile but is more common when dot and dabbing of the tiles has taken place or contrasting colours have been used ie: grey adhesive on white tiles.

Vitrified tiles have better durability and strength than ceramic tiles and as such should be suitable for your kitchen area as it will receive a high level of foot traffic. But that doesn't mean that the ones you have wouldn't be just as good anyway.

Hope this helps. Good luck. If you post the job on here you may get some offers from tilers in your area.

 

[Knackered Knees]

I would remove any old exsisting adhesive and get back down to the original substrate to see what secrets like cracks and the like it is hiding. To do this the floor will need to be 'Ground' flat with diamond abrasives. I'm not familar with asbestos removal laws as I reside outside the UK, but as a safety precaution have the floor tested as it may well be a legal obligation. Once that's out of the way the flook will need to be checked for weak spots as well as any cracking, which will need to be repaired. The floor cleaned and primed before levelling. Once you get to the stage of actuall fixing your tiles, and being porcelain you are a 'Brave' man for your first go. Consider some of the levelling tile clips available. Ramondi make them as do Lash and of course the Tuscan level system although they are expensive. The results if used correctly, however can be spectacular and provide a very high quality finish. You'll also need one very large tile cutter like a Sigma or Rubi, don't skimp here, big sturdy tiles require a big sturdy cutter. For the tricky stuff you may also require a 'wet' cutter as well, again big heavy tiles require.......you get the idea.

 

[kevan]

hi macworm,if i was you i would get a pro to lay the tiles,corrected edge tiles [sharp edge] are very hard to lay even for a lot of tradesman,its going to cost a lot just to gear yourself up, porcelain is a job for the pros. good luck

 

[The Legend; Phil Hobson RIP]

Hi and :welcome:

 

[White Room]

Hi and welcome..

 

[macworm]

Hi, thanks for the help - wife has decided on tiles- vitrified porcelain, 600x600 for kitchen and 300x600 for diner, supplier recommends sealing. Doesn't look like the old tiles contain asbestos so that's a relief, most seem to be coming up without to much of a problem but some have worn thin and are more difficult. I spoke to Mapie tech support and they say that I need to get any residue off the floor but not to worry about staining of the concrete- easier said than done. Don't know if a floor grinder will work as the residue is bitumous and could melt and clog. Have to go away for a couple of days so any suggestions welcome before I tackle it at the w/end.

 

[Max@ableskills]

Hi and welcome to the forum

 

[aph257]

IMHO get a pro in coz by the time you've bought the kit there wouldn't be much difference except the pro will have it done without any lips.

 

[DHTiling]

:welcome: