Tiling on floor boards

[Bathpool]

My first job post training, tiling a bathroom floor on old floor boards. I intend to secure the boards first then overlay with 15mm WBP ply. The only problem is that this will raise the level of the floor to the same level as the screwholes at the base of the toilet pan, which I don't think will look that great. I could take the toilet out and tile under then re-arrange the plumbing but I would prefer not to. Is there another way? Thanks

 

[kilty55]

6mm cement boards would give you less height issues

 

[White Room]

My preference would be to remove the toilet, could use 6mm backerboard clued and screwed, would'nt have so much hight then.

 

[Stewart]

I would always recommend removing the toilet...... you can use 6mm cement boards to reduce the height, but IMO it will always look like you've cut corners by not removing the toilet.

 

[DHTiling]

It is a case of what looks best and not what you prefer..lol lol.. remove the toilet and do it properly..

 

[Bathpool]

Thanks for the replys, the toilet is coming out! One other question, is 6mm cement board as good as ply at stopping movement in the floor?

 

[DHTiling]

A 6mm board is more stable when it comes to moisture and thermal stability but it needs a good base before hand.. as just like any over lay it will only accommodate so much deflection.

 

[The Legend; Phil Hobson RIP]

As above, remove the pan. Although it is possible to cut around a toilet pan and make it look as if the floor was laid first, and the pan fitted afterwards. It is so much more hard work:yikes:

 

[faithhealer]

Plus, no gaping hole to deal with if the toilet ever needs replacing

 

[DJS]

Good Luck with your first job Bathpool. I'm in a similar position to you - 4 months post training!! But I would always try to remove, and warn them it could get damaged if the screws are old and rusty.

One of my first quotes was for someone who was getting a new bathroom fitted and wanted me to tile it. I mentioned about removing the new toilet and sink, and she asked me not to. I explained I prefer to, otherwise it can take longer to get the cuts right around the WC Pan/Pedestal, and it never looks as good as the sanitarywear sitting on top of the tiles etc,etc, and easier to get a nice seal. Surprisingly - I didn't get the job!

It can normally be done fairly painlessly by adding some flexible hoses to the water supplies (10 or 15mm), try to make sure they have a decent bore size though. The 110 waste pipe can normally be dealt with by adding an offset pan connector. It's normally the 32mm or 40mm waste's that can be a bit difficult to re-route as a 10-20mm change in height is usually too much for a couple of offsets (45 deg bends). So I guess you could try flexible waste pipe connectors, if the solid pipe needs to be moved.

You'll have to weight it up yourself unless you did some pictures. Exactly what you need depends on current pipe layout!

 

[Smudger]

If you're struggling with the offsets to reconnect soil pipe, these Flexi pan connectors will usually do the job

 

[Bathpool]

Thanks for the help DJS, these are the sort of things you only learn when out doing the job, I guess. I agree it will give a much better job to remove the toilet, and make the tiling easier as well. I will discuss with the customer and check out the plumbing.

 

[aph257]

Good Luck with your first job Bathpool. I'm in a similar position to you - 4 months post training!! But I would always try to remove, and warn them it could get damaged if the screws are old and rusty.

One of my first quotes was for someone who was getting a new bathroom fitted and wanted me to tile it. I mentioned about removing the new toilet and sink, and she asked me not to. I explained I prefer to, otherwise it can take longer to get the cuts right around the WC Pan/Pedestal, and it never looks as good as the sanitarywear sitting on top of the tiles etc,etc, and easier to get a nice seal. Surprisingly - I didn't get the job!

It can normally be done fairly painlessly by adding some flexible hoses to the water supplies (10 or 15mm), try to make sure they have a decent bore size though. The 110 waste pipe can normally be dealt with by adding an offset pan connector. It's normally the 32mm or 40mm waste's that can be a bit difficult to re-route as a 10-20mm change in height is usually too much for a couple of offsets (45 deg bends). So I guess you could try flexible waste pipe connectors, if the solid pipe needs to be moved.

You'll have to weight it up yourself unless you did some pictures. Exactly what you need depends on current pipe layout!

good advice there Denis.

 

[DJS]

Glad if it helped. The flexi pan connectors will work too, but that sometimes depends if you've got the extra space!!

I was just refering to a straight swap with an offset/normal straight connector, as they both have same overall length. A flexi hose is likely to require cutting the 110 pipe back, as even the shortest one's are longer.

I usually use flexi connectors on back-to-wall WC/Cisterns. Like to make sure the seal is good before I push it into it final resting place!!

 

[Smudger]

Good point DJS, I've got to fit one to an old 4" cast iron pipe (which I've got to grind off) I was intending to use a flexi-connector. But as the one I need is about £15 I might have a look at the height before I buy it.