Tiling on mdf?

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trampy

Hi, I have a kitchen 'island' to tile in sheet mosaics, the island surface is mdf, am I ok to tile directly onto this????????????
 
No. You will need to waterproof it first or if possible overboard it with 6mm hardibacker. I did my kitchen once with mdf which i tiled onto with waterproof tubbed sticky. It looked beautiful for about 6months then i noticed the swelling nd the delamination? At the sam time as i did the kitchen i did the ensuite shower wth the same result only much sooner. Mdf is not a great surface to tile onto especially in an environment prone to moisture.
 
cheers guys, not sure I'll be able to use hardibacker due to staying flush with the hob etc, what waterproofing would you reccommend?
 
If you have a freestanding cooker, raise the legs, if not, remove your hob & re-fit once tiled. NEVER TILE ONTO MDF! Medium density fibreboard is only compressed sawdust. Even primed, it will still draw in moisture. Ply or Hardi is the way to go. If you tile onto the MDF, you will regret it later. All your hard work will goto waste.


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Tanking it will only hold back moisture for so long on MDF. Tiling onto MDF should not be an option. There are many options like covering it or replacing it. If you feel you have NO other option but to tile onto it, use Bal SBR primer on the MDF & a 2 part flexible adhesive. When grouting, use a Bal GT1 with your flexible grout. It may last for ever, it may last 6 months. It all depends on the humidity of the room.

A WP1 kit is an expensive way of taking a work surface. £60 to cover 6m2 (£10 pm2) Especially if it doesn't last. For the same price you could sheet it in 6mm ply & it'll last for ever (£25 to cover 2.97m2 - £8.41 pm2) Your adhesive & grout would be cheaper too.

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You can get WBP ply as thim as 3mm. Would this get over the hob height problem if you fixed this over the MDF?
 
Not thin ply just as bad but you can get 4mm backer board would be better to over board it with cement board as first said but how did you come by a work top made of MDF ?
 
Do you really think it would be necessary to use cement board for a tiled work surface? There's not going to be any deflection issues as it's not likely to be walked on and the MDF worktop (if it is actullay worktop) should be at least 28mm thick. Screwed down to rigid carcasses. I would say the ply would be sufficient but prime before tiling.
 
Weld stainless steel sheets (min 6mm thick) over the kitchen island, then when Gooner aka Diamond Pool Finishing figures out which adhesive and grout is suitable for tiling onto stainless steel he can tell you, and job's a good un. :lol:
 
Do you really think it would be necessary to use cement board for a tiled work surface? There's not going to be any deflection issues as it's not likely to be walked on and the MDF worktop (if it is actullay worktop) should be at least 28mm thick. Screwed down to rigid carcasses. I would say the ply would be sufficient but prime before tiling.
I wouldn't think it's 28mm thick I would be more worried about the ply mosture and the biggest problem with thin ply is delamination unless you fix it with adhesive but then you have the same problem as fixing tiles to (using the ply like a tile)
 
tiled 5 stainless steal man holes today. used ardex waterproofer kit first and then mapei keraquick. PERFECT

They'll be off in a week. Ardex waterproofing kit is intended for indoor use only. EVERYONE knows that.... :lol:
 

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