Discuss Tiling on wooden floor boarsds/concrete floor in the British & UK Tiling Forum area at TilersForums.com.

T

tommyk

Hello all,

I am currently doing up my kitchen and the next job is tilling my floor.

The problem is have is that half of my kitchen is floor boards, and the other half is concrete. There is a small ridge where the floor board and concrete meet which varies in height - slopping down towards one wall. The maximum ridge about 6mm - but only that big in a small area of about 10 cm across.

So my question is; what is that best way of dealing with this floor board/ concrete combination? My initial thought was to lay ply down to make the floor completely flat (get rid of the ridge) but then would i be able to lay the ply on the concrete as well as the wood?

Any help/advice would be very much appreciated.

Tom
 
C

CJ CERAMICS

is the ridge on the concrete side or on the floorboard side ie which is lower. if on concrete then i would self level to floor height then hardibaker the whole area. if it is the floor boards that is lower you could plyboard level then hardibaker area. another way would be to ply over the floorboards thin set screed area and lay ditra matting to allow for different substrates. but you need to make sure that the concrete is level and prime whole area. hope this helps
chris.
 
T

tommyk

Thanks all.

The floor boards are lower than the concrete. Its a awkward one because the ridge isn't level all the way across. It is level with the floor boards in one end section. It kind of slopes down. So putting ply/hardibaker on one section would mean having it higher in another - unless i just put the ply/hardibaker all the way over. But this would leave a gap under the ply! Which i'm presuming isn't a good thing!

The concrete area is only about 1 1/2 meters square (then goes under the base units)
 
D

DHTiling

You have a break in substrate type there and that normally warrants a movement joint.
Especially where timber meets concrete as they both expand at different rates and if you have any deflection in the timber where it meets the concrete then you will have debonding probs if you t ile over the break...

It is usually best to have a tile joit here and use a cold movment joint( Silicon) this will allow the floors to remain independent...and not work against each other.

Fibre plan as mentioned by Dock is great for timber and easier to use that 2 pack latex ones.
 

Sean Kelly

TF
Arms
647
1,068
Ruislip
I have only just come back from doing a quote. This very same issue i.e. half the kitchen is concrete and the other half is floorboards. I can't see the concrete/wood join because the floor is covered in laminate. However, I thought I would Hardibacker the whole area, but have found that Hardibacker is not designed for laying onto concrete...which I thought is a bit strange. I got this info from the faq on Hardibacker. So my question is Can I use Hardibacker? also CJ mentions plug/screw on the concrete side.......what is plug/screw? Cheers Sean
 
G

grumpygrouter

I have only just come back from doing a quote. This very same issue i.e. half the kitchen is concrete and the other half is floorboards. I can't see the concrete/wood join because the floor is covered in laminate. However, I thought I would Hardibacker the whole area, but have found that Hardibacker is not designed for laying onto concrete...which I thought is a bit strange. I got this info from the faq on Hardibacker. So my question is Can I use Hardibacker? also CJ mentions plug/screw on the concrete side.......what is plug/screw? Cheers Sean
Drill the concrete and then rawlplug it then screw the boards to this! It can be done as I have done it myself but it can take time! an SDS drill is essential here I would say!
 

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