Tiling Onto A 2 Part Epoxy Resin Floor Paint

[Tats]

Quick question.
I have to submit a price for 600m2 of 600x600 porcelain tiles. Just found out that the substrate is concrete over painted with a 2 part epoxy resin floor paint. I have no other info right now so let's assume it's been well done it's adhered correctly and it's a smooth finsih.
BAL have said no anyone have any ideas that are worth listing to and don't involve mechanically removing the paint.
Cheers

 

[Old Mod]

Contact @Glynn,
He's tech guy for Tilemaster, if anyone can offer a solution they will.
Even if it means recommending someone else's products.
They can't do enough for fixers!

Ardex also do this primer which is used on their resin DPM 1c
Not sayin its ur answer, but I'd be asking Ardex the question.

 

[Tats]

Cheers I'm hearing good things about tilemaster.

 

[Old Mod]

It'd help if I give info on primer like I was meant to haha

http://www.ardex.co.uk/Portals/0/productdocs/a08c87ee-b85e-4f8e-9e81-2545b04ebc34.pdf

 

[Qwerty]

Cheers I'm hearing good things about tilemaster.

I've just jumped ship from Mapei to Tilemaster and I am more than happy!

 

[lizzardtong]

If i remember correctly you can go for 2 part epoxy primer sprinkled with klin dried sand. And that will do. Did asked larsen and that was their answer. If nos you will need scrabbler and good dust extractor

 

[Ajax123]

Assuming the paint his in good nick and we'll àdhered (they usuàlly are) then use an epoxy primer and e8ther tile whilst still ßlightly back oir better as above sprinkle with silicà sañd. Once set VAC up the loose sand and you end up with a fought texture great for tiling to. Alternatively you could over lay with a high polymer smoothing compound and stick the tiles to that."

 

[One Day]

we spoke about this tonight eh Andy? tilemaster. ring Mark tomorrow!

 

[Tile Shop]

I'm not saying the following should be done, but i know someone who thought he knew better than bal and did it anyway.

About 5 years ago he used epoxy paint on his garage floor. 2 years later, converted it into a games room and wanted to tile it. He was advised to strip the paint to bare concrete, lay a DPM (because of a previous issue) and tile it.

But he couldn't be arsed. So he scuffed the paint, stuck a layer of BAL acrybase over it and used our own brand adhesive on 60x40 porcelain..... 3 years and they're still solid somehow. But then again, he's minted and can afford to redo it when (or if) it ever fails.

Might ask Bal tomorrow how this worked. Will probably baffle them.

 

[Tile Shop]

Had this question asked again this morning. Rang BAL and told him about the above method (AcryBase) being successful. They said congratulations to him, but they still wouldn't like to guarantee any products to do it.

So spoke to Ardex and asked them about a combination @3_fall and @lizzardtong ideas. The P82 Primer mixed with sand to key it. Again, they couldn't guarantee this working as the primer may not get a sufficient bond to the paint, but test it and see how it goes.

But the next test he suggested, (well known by some maybe, first I'd heard of it) was a thing of genius!

He said to mix up some Arditex NA, slap it on the floor to about 5mm, and while its wet, put a brick in the middle. Leave it to set (ideally 24 hours). Next day, grab a hammer and smack the brick. The brick will either fly through the window meaning the latex hasn't successfully bonded, or it will shatter meaning it has (his exact words). If it bonds, do the whole floor and tile it. If it doesn't, fix the window and try and get the paint up mechanically before considering your next move.

I guess alot of the epoxy paints have different properties so testing is the only recommended way to go.

What was the outcome for this particular job that started the thread?