Tiling Onto Carlite Bonding !

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Monkey Wrench

Can you tile directly onto Carlite Bonding ?

The plasterer (who bonded the walls) advised to Unibond (PVA) prior to tiling but, as far as I'm aware, that's a definite no.

I want to get on with the job but I'm reluctant to tile directly onto the bonding as I'm sure it will just suck all the moisture out of the adhesive leaving a pile of tiles on the floor (and not on the wall where they should be).

I've read so many conflicting opinions on this matter and still do not know one way or the other.

Any advice would be much appreciated.

Thank you

 
no you cant tile onto bonding, and do not use pva, and i wish some plasterers would stop advicing this.........its wrong, wrong, wrong....
 
we could really do with knowing what type of tiles you plan on using, specifically the weight per m2 of them. But certainly no tiles should be fixed directly onto bonding coat.
 
Thanks for the posts.

I'll get the walls skimmed prior to tiling. I'm not sure of the size and weight per m2 but will find out and post details.

Out of interest, is there another material the plasterer should have used (instead of Carlite Bonding) that would have made it uneccesary to skim the walls for tiling ?

Thanks again.
 
Thistle dri-coat base cement coat could have been used to tile on.....If the bonding has dried out and the need to apply a finish is required a coat of pva to cut the suction down for a slow setting finish would be required but that will only take 20kg m2.
 
Thistle dri-coat base cement coat could have been used to tile on.....If the bonding has dried out and the need to apply a finish is required a coat of pva to cut the suction down for a slow setting finish would be required but that will only take 20kg m2.

Thanks for the post whitebeam.

I take it that by "slow setting finish" you mean the drying time of the finish coat ! If so, how long after the finish coat had been applied would I be able to start tiling ?

I'll check the m2 weight of the tiles to make sure its within the 20kg.
 
Thanks for the post whitebeam.

I take it that by "slow setting finish" you mean the drying time of the finish coat ! If so, how long after the finish coat had been applied would I be able to start tiling ?

I'll check the m2 weight of the tiles to make sure its within the 20kg.

Yes mate, all finishes need a low suction background and thats the reason to use pva.....
 
I spoke to the plasterer this afternoon and he has told me that carlite bonding is perfectly ok to tile on providing the suction has been neutralised by applying something like Bal Bond SBR prior to tiling. He says that he's quite happy to skim the bonding but thinks that it will be a waste of my money as all I'd be doing is paying for an additional finish to tile (glue) onto when the bonding is a perfectly good tiling surface one primed with SBR !

I'm certainly not doubting any of the excellent advice I've received on this forum but just confused by the conflicting opinions !
 
on tghe other thread it was pointed out that even britsih gypsum say it is not suitable to tile to, so you'll see your plasterer is wrong and maybe if you showed him the data sheets for bonding then he won't mis-inform people in the future 😉
 
This is what British Gypsum say
• Thistle plasters can be decorated
with most paint finishes and
wall coverings by following the
manufacturers’recommendations.
• Impermeable finishes, such as tiles,
should not be applied until the
background and plaster are dry.
• Take care withThistle Hardwall land Thistle Tough Coat which dry
from the surface, appearing surface dry before they are fully dry.
• Tiles up to 20kg/m2
can be applied directly to Thistle finish
coats. If a bonding agent is used the limit is reduced to
12kg/m.
2
Tiles should not be applied directly to Thistle undercoats,
with the exception of Thistle Dri-Coat
.
• Where tiling onto finish plasters, avoid polishing the surface.Where the surface is polished, roughen and apply a suitableprimer.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
This is what British Gypsum say
• Thistle plasters can be decorated
with most paint finishes and
wall coverings by following the
manufacturers’recommendations.
• Impermeable finishes, such as tiles,
should not be applied until the
background and plaster are dry.
• Take care withThistle Hardwall land Thistle Tough Coat which dry
from the surface, appearing surface dry before they are fully dry.
• Tiles up to 20kg/m2
can be applied directly to Thistle finish
coats. If a bonding agent is used the limit is reduced to
12kg/m.

2
• Tiles should not be applied directly to Thistle undercoats,
with the exception of Thistle Dri-Coat.
• Where tiling onto finish plasters, avoid polishing the surface.Where the surface is polished, roughen and apply a suitableprimer.

They used to say 20kg m2, holy moses.
 
Thanks for the additional posts and to pjc as I tried to find that info on the British Gypsum site but couldn't see it anywhere.

Ok, so if the plasterer skims the carlite bonded walls, I assume he will have to PVA them first. If that is the case, will I then be limited to 12kg/m2 or 20kg/m2 ?
 
Just found this from the BG website, wish there'd make there mind up.

Tiling onto plastered surfaces
Skim plastering is not normally specified to Gyproc moisture
resistant grade boards.Tiles up to 20kg/m2
(including adhesive and
grout) can be applied directly to Thistle finish plasters, except where
the system includes a bonding agent. In this situation the total
weight of tiles and plaster applied over a bonding agent is limited to
20kg/m2
, therefore consideration should be given to tiling directly to
the background. If plastering to provide a background for tiles, avoid
polishing the surface. Polished plaster surfaces should be roughened
and a suitable primer used. Consult the tile adhesive manufacturer
for guidance.
Tiles should not be applied directly to Thistle undercoats, with the
exception of Thistle Dri-Coat
 
Last edited by a moderator:
I've skimmed for 20kg m2 for myself and other tilers for god knows how long so I would stick with the upper figure but it does say the weight of the finish to be included which is about 2kg m2 so tile weight with addy 18kg m2, confused.com.
 
I've been doing some more research and found out that, if I have the bonded walls skimmed, I will need to wait for up to 4 weeks for it to dry :mad2:

Surely, not !
 
I didn't ask the plasterer to use bonding ! I just asked for a finished service suitable for tiling.
did you pay him i hope not till he comes back and finishes yes not many people are any good in the building trade imo they don't even know about their own jobs let alone other trades bad when tilers know more about plastering than a plasterer feel sorry for you guys but most of the time these guys get the work because they are cheaper but not always some talk a good job
 
Last edited by a moderator:
did you pay him i hope not till he comes back and finishes

No, he's coming back later this week to skim the walls. I met him today at the customers house and he advised that, considering the thickness of the bonding he had applied (and the substrate beneath it) there would be no problem tiling onto the bonding. Additionally, the fact that he will have to apply a couple of coats of Unibond (PVA) to the bonding prior to skimming the wall means that the plaster skim will be sitcking to the PVA which is no different to applying a primer directly to the bonding and tiling directly onto the bonding. I really didn't have an argument to that but still insisted on he skim before tiling !
 

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