Tiling Onto Carlite Bonding !

[Monkey Wrench]

I've been doing some more research and found out that, if I have the bonded walls skimmed, I will need to wait for up to 4 weeks for it to dry :mad2:

Surely, not !

 

[Perry]

I've been doing some more research and found out that, if I have the bonded walls skimmed, I will need to wait for up to 4 weeks for it to dry :mad2:

always best to do this before you start

 

[Monkey Wrench]

I've been doing some more research and found out that, if I have the bonded walls skimmed, I will need to wait for up to 4 weeks for it to dry :mad2:

always best to do this before you start

I didn't ask the plasterer to use bonding ! I just asked for a finished service suitable for tiling.

 

[Perry]

I didn't ask the plasterer to use bonding ! I just asked for a finished service suitable for tiling.

did you pay him i hope not till he comes back and finishes yes not many people are any good in the building trade imo they don't even know about their own jobs let alone other trades bad when tilers know more about plastering than a plasterer feel sorry for you guys but most of the time these guys get the work because they are cheaper but not always some talk a good job

 

[White Room]

Dot and dabbing would speeded your job along...

 

[Monkey Wrench]

did you pay him i hope not till he comes back and finishes

No, he's coming back later this week to skim the walls. I met him today at the customers house and he advised that, considering the thickness of the bonding he had applied (and the substrate beneath it) there would be no problem tiling onto the bonding. Additionally, the fact that he will have to apply a couple of coats of Unibond (PVA) to the bonding prior to skimming the wall means that the plaster skim will be sitcking to the PVA which is no different to applying a primer directly to the bonding and tiling directly onto the bonding. I really didn't have an argument to that but still insisted on he skim before tiling !

 

[Monkey Wrench]

Dot and dabbing would speeded your job along...

I had considered that but I guess I'd have to remove all the bonding first ! Additionally, as part of the area to be tilied is in a shower, I'd have to use a waterproof cement board (Aquapanel) which can't be dot and dabbed.

 

[White Room]

You could tank the board....

 

[Monkey Wrench]

You could tank the board....

Can I board directly onto the Carlite bonding or would I have to hack it off first ?

 

[Perry]

waterproof cement board (Aquapanel) is not waterproof use wedi type boards

 

[Monkey Wrench]

Can I board directly onto the Carlite bonding or would I have to hack it off first ?

The other consideration of "dot and dabbing" is the impact on door/window frames as, considering the depth of the plasterboard/adhesive and tile/adhesive, it will add at least 25mm to the wall thickness.

 

[afright]

I do not know if any of you have come across this, but a few years back did a site had trouble with the tiling coming away with the plaster on the back of the tiles we had four bathrooms with this problem it turn out that the walls were carlite finish on render it was causing a reaction if plaster was applied to early onto the render the finish would craze so we were told that Carlite do not recommend finish on render,turned out the builder had to fight it out with Carlite in court as some of the houses had to be all replastered ,did have us worried thought it might be our problem.

 

[White Room]

I do not know if any of you have come across this, but a few years back did a site had trouble with the tiling coming away with the plaster on the back of the tiles we had four bathrooms with this problem it turn out that the walls were carlite finish on render it was causing a reaction if plaster was applied to early onto the render the finish would craze so we were told that Carlite do not recommend finish on render,turned out the builder had to fight it out with Carlite in court as some of the houses had to be all replastered ,did have us worried thought it might be our problem.

Carlite finish has'nt been around for years and was designed for the gypsum under coats which were floated out one day and then finished the next but never designed for render though, we used to apply siriphite or board finish on render the next day giving the sand cement time just to firm up.

 

[afright]

The Builder had to move all four house owners out while he replastered but he did at first try to blame us,so we got BAL tech guys in and they took away samples it was then that they found out the problem it was a great relief getting back the results saying it was not our fault, this was around mid to late 80s.

 

[Monkey Wrench]

I do not know if any of you have come across this, but a few years back did a site had trouble with the tiling coming away with the plaster on the back of the tiles we had four bathrooms with this problem it turn out that the walls were carlite finish on render it was causing a reaction if plaster was applied to early onto the render the finish would craze so we were told that Carlite do not recommend finish on render,turned out the builder had to fight it out with Carlite in court as some of the houses had to be all replastered ,did have us worried thought it might be our problem.

Were you tiling directly onto the Carlite bonding or was there a coat of finish plaster on top of the bonding ?

 

[afright]

No it was Carlite finish skimmed on to S & C render and the finish came of the render the whole of the houses were the same

 

[widler]

Carlite finish, it was ace on suction, no messing about like skimming plasterboard, 2 coats trowel up job done. Like whitebeam said a no on s/c, board finish or multi when it came out only, cant believe a builder would do that, daft.
As for tiling on bonding, id either knockoff or dryline over, or if its straight and flat why not just plug and screw the boards straight on top of bonding?

 

[afright]

The builder ended up doing 3 years for v.a.t fraud done them out of half a million.

 

[widler]

Sounds like a nice chap

 

[Monkey Wrench]

get it skimmed , or remove bonding and board with new plaster boards , what size tiles do u intend using

The tiles are 250 x 400 ceramic tiles @ 14Kg m2 (1.4kg each). The wall has now been skimmed (one week after the bonding went on) and now I just have to wait for it to dry. Will using either a dehumidifirer or heater speed up the four week drying process ?

 

[Dan]

Just bumping some of the older popular (sometimes not so popular) threads. Probably wont be current discussion these days but I just need to do it. So just ignore the thread if it's not current for you.

 

[Stuart Williams]

This is a topic I'm looking for advice on right now. We had our builder level our walls so they did it with Carlite bonding and said to PVA then tile on it - clearly now this isn't good advice. So, as it's a bathroom what finishing coat do you suggest before tiling, I'll end up doing this myself. Sand and cement? Boarding isn't really an option, it's a small room.

 

[White Room]

British Gypsum don't recommend tiling onto a Thistle bonding coat, what tiles are you going to fixing.

 

[Stuart Williams]

British Gypsum don't recommend tiling onto a Thistle bonding coat, what tiles are you going to fixing.

600x300x10mm ceramic tiles - not sure of the weight as they are sitting in storage / mum's garage

 

[White Room]

Don't understand the sand/cement bit, pva and a multi finish should suffice...there has been talk recently that no pva should be used in any moisture areas involved with gypsum plaster.