Tiling onto warped worktop

[AliGage]

Should be oiled underneath when fitted about 5 coats

I'm interested to know, for what purpose would you oil the undernath??

 

[John Benton]

I'm interested to know, for what purpose would you oil the undernath??

It will be to counteract the oil on top to stop it curving

 

[lmkitchens]

^^ balances the worktop. Stops it cupping.

 

[Colour Republic]

The undersides should always be oiled so moisture resistances is equalised all around, this is the reason they are cupping. Moisture is entering the underside and expanding the wood, on the top where moisture is less due to its protected state from the oil is not expanding at the same rate. Hence cupping. In addition they shouldn't be screwed tightly down but have slip plates installed. The worktops will expand and contract as it is a natural material so will pull the cabinets in all sorts of directions if hard fixed.

Personally I wouldn't tile it no matter what but if she won't listen and is too going to do it any way then I would suggest you leave a large 6mm expansion gap so the worktops can twist and bow even more.

 

[AliGage]

I've always used the "slip plates" as you mention but i've never oiled the underside of the worktops. This is what I was taught.
Having said that two kitchens for customers I have installed with solid oak tops in the past I am still in contact with. One is the owner of the garage I take my motors to. His kitchen I installed some 8 or 9 years ago. There's been no cupping there, and it was the 28mm tops. Being slimmer you expect it to be more vunerable to cupping surely?

 

[Colour Republic]

It makes no odds Ali, the thinner ones don't need to take on so much moisture to warp but then they won't warp which as much force and the fixings could keep it down, it makes no odds, if its going to warp, it's going to warp!

Count yourself lucky yours didnt warp. Just like a tiler saying I dot and dab floors and 'I've never had a problem' doesn't make it acceptable practice. All timber should have the reverse side protected if the face is to be decorated or covered. Have you ever seen decking cup? What abou T&G cladding? As I say better to equalise all timber and protect from moisture just like you would do when laying ply before tiling

 

[AliGage]

Hardly think the comparison to dot and dabbing tiles was either necessary or the same thing.
As I said it was how I was instructed/shown to it. Merely questioning because I have never done it.

 

[Colour Republic]

How is it any different Ali? Something is either bad practice or it isn't, not oiling the undersides of timber worktops is bad practice, whoever taught you must have known no different, all the people that dot and dab must have been shown by somebody else. How many floors have you taken up and then found they were dot and dabbed despite not outward signs it was? It's no guarantee a floor will fail as some just get lucky. So the comparison is perfect.

I'm not calling you a cowboy just saying not oiling is bad practice and you'll find most timber blank suppliers will state the underside needs oiling prior to installation.

 

[AliGage]

I wasn't arguing either way. Just asking why

 

[The D]

OMG are you really being advised to walk away from job over a 4mm discrepancy ?? Where have all the real men gone

 

[DHTiling]

OMG are you really being advised to walk away from job over a 4mm discrepancy ?? Where have all the real men gone

I agree .. some will walk away from anything but perfect :lol: ... oh the joys of internet tilers..

 

[Colour Republic]

It's not the unlevelness that is the problem it's the fact the worktops will continue to warp and crush the tiles, the tiling isn't the issue its the worktops. Hence the reason for leaving a big expansion gap if you do tile it.

 

[Martino]

Colour republic has got it down to a T....my origional post was asking about what size gap to leave...No doubt these worktops will continue to bow and warp. If i dont tile it someone else will...she knows what can happen and wants it doing anyways. I am proborbly going to leave around a 4mm gap as thats the largest tile spacer i have and Silicon it......Dont no why peoplle get these oak worktops they dont even keep good!...not to mention quite ugly...My own opinion lol....With regards to a few posts in this thread. i have fitted quite a few of these tops and always oiled the underside..reasons that colour republic mentioned perfectly.

 

[widler]

Colour republic has got it down to a T....my origional post was asking about what size gap to leave...No doubt these worktops will continue to bow and warp. If i dont tile it someone else will...she knows what can happen and wants it doing anyways. I am proborbly going to leave around a 4mm gap as thats the largest tile spacer i have and Silicon it......Dont no why peoplle get these oak worktops they dont even keep good!...not to mention quite ugly...My own opinion lol....With regards to a few posts in this thread. i have fitted quite a few of these tops and always oiled the underside..reasons that colour republic mentioned perfectly.

I admit they are a pain in the backside ,the wife wants to oil them every bloody minute to make them look new may thats why mine aint warped, all the pigging oil has soaked all the way through, cos i tell you lot something, when the eldest daughter washes up, its like she has been diving in the sink !