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L

Leatherface

Thought I had answered your question mate - yes I will tile over paint - but only once it has been sanded - the amount of sanding required depends upon how well the paint is keyed to the wall


If you apply logic to this then all a lot of sanding does is make the paint layer thinner and more likely to peel away from the wall. So you must either just remove grease and dirt and key the surface ONLY (take as little as poss off) or take it all off

Sorry, the way I sand with a variable speed grinder and coarse sanding discs REMOVES 90% of the paint easily. That is usually more tan adequate. On some occasions if necessary I go the extra mile and remove all the paint.
When I say sanding ... to clarify I mean sanding down, to the surface below ( not rubbing a bit off )
 
S

smokey1234x

unless i see the paint flecky or damp am always going 2 tile over it,no point changin now 5 years later,never had a single tile fall off a wall. touch wood
 
L

Leatherface

Sorry chaps, but I do a lot of natural stone nowadays.
I agree that for many standard ceramic tiles, not much sanding required. BUT I would never risk sticking 600 x 400 Trav or marble tiles onto an emulsion painted wall. TOO HEAVY !!!

I know you have all seen the table of weights for plaster, plasterboard, plywood etc etc....

Would like to hear anyone come up with the weights acceptable for emulsion paint ??? If you phone the technical dept for most adhesive manufacturer, they would almost always advise you to "mechanically abrade" the paint prior to tiling.

Not being a " textbook arsehole" here - just like to do the job so there can be no comebacks in the future !! All my work is on recommend - want to keep it that way !!
 
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S

stev1904

Paint only becomes a problem for Tiling on, when it has been penetrated by water. Emulsion and Silk are both water based which means it will eventually soften and peal. This can be seen in any partially tiled shower/bath room were the steam has affected the skin of the paint. This is why you get flaky paint and condesation a foot or so up from the shower tray, top of bath, condensation areas around the toilet cistern and windows, internal corners and where the wall meets the ceiling. The integrity of the paint is also lost if it is not prepped properly before the next coat, i.e. sanding down, primed or undercoat. In which case the adhesion of the tiles on the wall, will most certainly be affected.
I’ve used steam strippers once or twice in the past to get to the wall surface, when I’ve had time for it to dry that is. Other than that a sharp scraper and/or a wire brush does.

Hope this helps
 
P

paul67

I've just come on to this forum, on the 2 on suites that i just tiled in my new house , my better 1/2 changed her mind on the tile ,1 was painted walls tiles came off easy i mean scrapped off, the 1 without paint were a right pain to get off :furious3: . Used topps ready mix for bath and kitchen to put tiles on they were 100 mm sq.
 
L

Leatherface

The top and bottom of this is " take each job on it's own merits"
There are many different types of paint and wall. Some paint may be bonded to the wall very well. Others may flake off very easily.
Use your judgement.
 

Dan

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Some of the threads in the tiling forum that have had a lot of views are being bumped up into current discussion. Just walk on by if it's not your flavour right now. Perhaps it'll help somebody out one day, and they become members, and then they post a thread, and professional tilers respond, and then you learn something from them...? Maybe?
 
G

GDog01

Staggering how many ‘tilers’ on here are not considering one vital ingredient. The adhesive being used! NONE of the major brands will guarantee adhesion on a painted wall. So they might stick and they might be OK. NONE of the work is guaranteed. Well done. Whether you agree with this or not is completely irrelevant. No matter how many jobs youve done and nothing has gone wrong…..everyone one of them has NEVER been guaranteed. 😂 excellent!! Leather gave you get pass marks. Sound like a professional.
 

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