tiling over paint

[Leatherface]

Think I get ya.
I have made myself a promise not to DISS newbies, only give advice that they can heed if they wish. So .........................

:mad2: :mad2: :mad2: :mad2: :mad2:

 

[versatilene]

Thought I had answered your question mate - yes I will tile over paint - but only once it has been sanded - the amount of sanding required depends upon how well the paint is keyed to the wall


If you apply logic to this then all a lot of sanding does is make the paint layer thinner and more likely to peel away from the wall. So you must either just remove grease and dirt and key the surface ONLY (take as little as poss off) or take it all off

 

[TONY]

Will tile over paint but only if it is sound and I always score first and sand

 

[grumpygrouter]

Just a thought here guys, with emulsion paint that goes back to a "liquid" state when wet, could it be that a lot of tilers now-a-days are using rapid set cement addy and doing so just "damps" the paint surface long enough to make it unstable and then the addy is set to an unstable surface. With bucket stuff, White Star for instance, the addy is wet for much, much longer has more time to "soak through" the emulsion and bond to the substrate behind.

Only reason I pose the question is that I have removed tiles from painted bathroom walls and it has come away with large amounts of substrate attached to the tile. The addy has quite obviously adhered to the plasterboard through the paint in most places though not all. Not sure of the reason for this.

Thoughts on this guys?

Grumpy

 

[Perry]

a grey area this they say you should remove emulsion paint a little bit of a difficult job that but what ever use your only sticking it to the paint & not the wall have seen lots of builders put a mist coat ready for the tilier
:stupid: big time :stupid:

 

[grumpygrouter]

Another problem with removing emulsion paint, certainly in the area I live is that most of the more modern buildings are timber frame with stud partions. Taking paint off plasterboard without removing the paper surface is nigh on impossible. It is my understanding that it is the paper wrap that helps give the plasterboard its strength and this is partly where the tiles are sticking to, not just the plaster underneath.

Grumpy

 

[Perry]

youve got it grumpy i think sometimes the best you can do is to follow
Dan the Man
:grouphug:

 

[DHTiling]

As long as you rough it up enough for your primer to impregnate then no probs...i use a wire brush and this works a treat....

 

[Fekin]

This is just another case of people doing things differently and has been the case for many many years.

People have been tiling onto paint for decades, and "in my view" they have been fine for the most part.
I have been to look at quite a few bathrooms that have been tiled onto paint and the tiles have been hard to remove from the walls.
One bathroom I did an estimate on a week or so ago, had been tiled onto paint, only dot n dabbing the tiles in the corners with minute amounts of adhesive, the dried adhesive blobs were around a ten pence piece in size max, and the customer noticed some grout had fallen off from around a tile, so as he was applying some new grout to the tile, it fell off, bringing away 2 more with it, that's how I could see how little adhesive had been used to fix them onto a painted wall.
Now you could say, theres the proof that tiles shouldn't be fixed to paint, never mind only having maybe 3% adhesive coverage, but these tiles had been on the walls for over 25 years.
Im only saying this as some people tend to claim that if something is done a certain way, they can guarentee it will fail in a very short period of time, where it dosen't in all cases, yes it might in some, but most probably won't in most.

Now Im not saying who is right and who is wrong, and yes in a perfect world we wouldn't tile onto paint, but in some cases it's the difference between getting a job and not getting it if a customer has had tiles on a painted wall for 20 years, then we come around and say it all has to be sanded off other wise they will fall off within the month... they just don't buy it.

The job I looked at, the customer is happy with me saying I will need a day to sand down and prime the walls, but a lot wouldn't be.

It's like using PVA as a primer.

It's probably been used millions of times, with only a few examples of the tiling failing compared to the amount that hasn't failed because of it, but it's still not best to use because it can make it fail.

So, in a nutshell, while tiling onto paint isn't ideal, the chances of it failing as quickly as some would say it will is probably very small, "in my view"

 

[frogeye]

Seeing this from a novices point of view - when I tiled my bathroom 15 years ago ( now in bits and being done 'properly' - bloody grout lines!) I was unaware that you couldn't tile over paint - so I did. Looking at the wall now that I have removed the tiles I can see that for some reason I had decided to score the wall, but then I applied pva.

The tiles on the painted area were an absolute nightmare to get off - the old adhesive had to be chiseled off. It would have been a B & Q waterproof type.

My only suggestion is does it have anything to do with the type of paint used? The stuff I used was the dulux bathroom paint - resistant to mould etc. The tiles on walls in the wet areas fell off with a bit of help - pva and water ingress?, but the other parts that had been pva'd and were free of water, resisted all the gentle attempts and needed a chisel hammer drill. This resulted in tile and plaster skim leaving the wall.
Before I removed the tiles there was no evidence that there was a major problem with tiles dropping off
Sully