Travertine floor

[Ajax123]

hay ajax any chance of telling us on the forum a bit more about these screeds m8, like where there used and why ,and any stuff you know cheers fella

You asked for it Gooner....

 

[Colour Republic]

Where the pipes run through the joint formers they should be sealed using a flexible sealant so as to offer a full thickness isolation joint between bays.

Thanks Ajax 'Wiki' 123 you really are a wealth of info

Explain this bit to me?

EDIT oh my god there's more!

 

[Ajax123]

Thanks Ajax 'Wiki' 123 you really are a wealth of info

Explain this bit to me?

EDIT oh my god there's more!

The joint former should be cut (or preformed if available) to allow the pipes to pass through it. The "hole" through which the pipe runs should ideally be sealed with a flexible sealant (e.g. Silicon) so that the screed on one side of the hole is divorced from that on the other side thus creating a full depth full isolation joint. This is belt and braces and more often than not I don't even see these joints let alone sealing the run through.

 

[White Room]

I can get my breath back now:lol:

Some quality information Ajax

 

[Colour Republic]

After I've had a little nap, I might look up 'hair hygrometer' not got one of them, why does it need to be blond hair?


Cool I can build my own :clap:

Broken Link Removed

 

[marbleman]

let me say to Ajax123 great reply and full of information, just shows how important it is to do the job correct, I will say your advice is the best i have ever seen on this site , well done
regards
marbleman

 

[woodie]

hi Ajax123, phew that lot just blew my mind, appreciate your time and info'.
As for this laitance there was no film over the floor before i laid the tiles and it had good clean anyway to get rid of all the plaster and rubbish all over it and i am very fussy about giving the floor a good sweep before i lay tiles, as for the perimeter all that was there looked like dpm which was about a mm or two thick, the room itself was an extension to the main house off the kitchen area in which there was a blooming big patio door, the weather,well it was cold for weeks during the drying time for which i ensured there was a minimum of one days drying per mm of screed hence i could have laid it after thirty days but i left it for forty two, cheers all:8:

 

[Nardini]

Excellent advice Ajax123. Now, I only need to know what to do when ambient temperature is running at 45°C... :smilewinkgrin:

 

[Ajax123]

Excellent advice Ajax123. Now, I only need to know what to do when ambient temperature is running at 45°C... :smilewinkgrin:

Buy a fan and an ice lolly :drool5:

 

[Ajax123]

hi Ajax123, phew that lot just blew my mind, appreciate your time and info'.
As for this laitance there was no film over the floor before i laid the tiles and it had good clean anyway to get rid of all the plaster and rubbish all over it and i am very fussy about giving the floor a good sweep before i lay tiles, as for the perimeter all that was there looked like dpm which was about a mm or two thick, the room itself was an extension to the main house off the kitchen area in which there was a blooming big patio door, the weather,well it was cold for weeks during the drying time for which i ensured there was a minimum of one days drying per mm of screed hence i could have laid it after thirty days but i left it for forty two, cheers all:8:

It sounds like you were dealing with either a hemi hydrate or a skin free anhydrite. You would know pretty much immediately if it was traditional anhydrite as the skin is pretty obvious. Bear in mind in terms of the drying phase the screed will only dry when it stops getting wet. The plastering, decorating etc all put moisture into the atmosphere which will increase the smabient RH and so slow drying. The absolute key to this is ventillation as this removes the moisture from the air over the screed. It is very important to do a moistrue determination in all screeds prior to installation of coverings whether tiles or vynils, wood or carpets as the moisture movement can disrupt the adhesive properties, primer properties and the migration of disruptive salts. This latter is best minimised by the use of gypsum addy although I appreciate it is not widely available. It is however no more costly than cement. you could also use a decoupling membrane to stabilise tehe vapour pressure over the screed and divorce the tiles from it. This is a useful thing if the screed has been badly installed. I still suspect this delamination event is the result of moisture and a less robust primer adhesive combination than could have been selected.