Discuss Travertine Mixed mesh 3 way mitre advise please thx in the British & UK Tiling Forum area at TilersForums.com.

J

jooster

Great site wish id found this earlier :mad2:

im just trying to figure out how to complete this. Ive got a Kitchen window with appox 200mm recess I need to 3 way mitre both sides.
The wall with the window on, will it be best to work away from both sides first. As im fitting mixed honed Travertine Meshed, what is the best way to go about adding the finishing strips uprights,tops, and window recess ? I will be 3 way mitering aswell.
Would it be advisable to leave the top 50mm unbuttered and butter the strip, so i can slip the strip in the top, and upright, after i have completed the wall :huh2: the last thing i want to do is find the mitres too short or long so is it the best way as above or is there a better way ?

Also is it best to add the recess last as the uprights i suppose can be buttered onto the recess (under tile rail pointing to window if you understand my jargon

Cutting the mitres has to be spot on as they meet the units 900mm each side of the window.

thxs all hope i made some sort of sense :thumbsup: regards jooster
 
Last edited by a moderator:
J

jooster

I might aswell ask if my price is a little steep, as i was called in to completely remove the first attempt last week BY SOMEOME ELSE a complete and utter cowboy. The customer told him not to return, had not grouted or sealed, but the job was so bad i had to strip all the tiles first (mixed travertine ) make good the walls, PVA as this had not been done.

So this is the job.

Strip old tiles. 5 sq meters some with an sds spade
make good walls (kitchen)
Pva
Fit new Travertine mixed mesh, many cuts including 7 Double sockets
strips all round
fit new window board
seal
grout
seal

How long should this take a semi pro ? and am i expensive ?
Customer paid for all materials
Just to fit the tiles which are not easy as the mesh accuracy isnt good some 2mm some 1mm etc, so some have to be cut away which makes the job longer. and i like to use spacers 3mm.

Because they are mixed mesh, with many sockets so far ive found it very slow, Im charging £60 per sq meter as it going to take 4 days to complete the work plus going back to seal later, and a quick buff.

total price to sort this debarcle £480.00
 
D

doug boardley

I might aswell ask if my price is a little steep, as i was called in to completely remove the first attempt last week BY SOMEOME ELSE a complete and utter cowboy. The customer told him not to return, had not grouted or sealed, but the job was so bad i had to strip all the tiles first (mixed travertine ) make good the walls, PVA as this had not been done.

So this is the job.

Strip old tiles. 5 sq meters some with an sds spade
make good walls (kitchen)
Pva
Fit new Travertine mixed mesh, many cuts including 7 Double sockets
strips all round
fit new window board
seal
grout
seal

How long should this take a semi pro ? and am i expensive ?
Customer paid for all materials
Just to fit the tiles which are not easy as the mesh accuracy isnt good some 2mm some 1mm etc, so some have to be cut away which makes the job longer. and i like to use spacers 3mm.

Because they are mixed mesh, with many sockets so far ive found it very slow, Im charging £60 per sq meter as it going to take 4 days to complete the work plus going back to seal later, and a quick buff.

total price to sort this debarcle £480.00
oh oh!
 
O

Olz

PrimerG5kg.jpg


Someone on the forum once illustrated the problem of PVA'ing in a very good way.

When you get PVA glue on your hand, it forms a clear skin when it drys, you can then just peel this off, when you put pva on a wall it drys in a skin, this skin is then basically the only thing holding your tile adhesive and therfore tiles to the wall.
 
S

sWe

Great site wish id found this earlier :mad2:

im just trying to figure out how to complete this. Ive got a Kitchen window with appox 200mm recess I need to 3 way mitre both sides.
The wall with the window on, will it be best to work away from both sides first. As im fitting mixed honed Travertine Meshed, what is the best way to go about adding the finishing strips uprights,tops, and window recess ? I will be 3 way mitering aswell.
Would it be advisable to leave the top 50mm unbuttered and butter the strip, so i can slip the strip in the top, and upright, after i have completed the wall :huh2: the last thing i want to do is find the mitres too short or long so is it the best way as above or is there a better way ?

Also is it best to add the recess last as the uprights i suppose can be buttered onto the recess (under tile rail pointing to window if you understand my jargon

Cutting the mitres has to be spot on as they meet the units 900mm each side of the window.

thxs all hope i made some sort of sense :thumbsup: regards jooster

To be honest, three way mitering mosaics seems a bit excessive. Wouldn't overlapping be more appropriate? Bit hard to say without seeing the mosaics.

travertine kitchen - Tile Gallery - Tile Photo's - Tile Pictures - Tiling Pictures
Travertine kitchen - Tile Gallery - Tile Photo's - Tile Pictures - Tiling Pictures

I might aswell ask if my price is a little steep, as i was called in to completely remove the first attempt last week BY SOMEOME ELSE a complete and utter cowboy. The customer told him not to return, had not grouted or sealed, but the job was so bad i had to strip all the tiles first (mixed travertine ) make good the walls, PVA as this had not been done.

So this is the job.

Strip old tiles. 5 sq meters some with an sds spade
make good walls (kitchen)
Pva
Fit new Travertine mixed mesh, many cuts including 7 Double sockets
strips all round
fit new window board
seal
grout
seal

How long should this take a semi pro ? and am i expensive ?
Customer paid for all materials
Just to fit the tiles which are not easy as the mesh accuracy isnt good some 2mm some 1mm etc, so some have to be cut away which makes the job longer. and i like to use spacers 3mm.

Because they are mixed mesh, with many sockets so far ive found it very slow, Im charging £60 per sq meter as it going to take 4 days to complete the work plus going back to seal later, and a quick buff.

total price to sort this debarcle £480.00

PVA does not belong in tiling. Period.

About PVA

http://www.tilersforums.com/tile-adhesive-grout-prep-forum/2511-p-v-versus-primers.html


Someone on the forum once illustrated the problem of PVA'ing in a very good way.

When you get PVA glue on your hand, it forms a clear skin when it drys, you can then just peel this off, when you put pva on a wall it drys in a skin, this skin is then basically the only thing holding your tile adhesive and therfore tiles to the wall.

Well, I'd like to add the common sense angle. PVA is normally sold as... Carpenter's glue. In other words, wood glue.


Wood glue.
W O O D glue.
W-O-O-D glue.
Dubya. Oh. Oh. Dee. Glue.

Seriously. Wood glue is for gluing wood. If I didn't know better, which I do, and someone told me to "use wood glue as a primer before tiling", my common sense would still tap my shoulder and say "Now, hold on just a minute! Wood glue + tiles, which clearly aren't made from wood? Whaaaat?"

And oh, the voice of my common sense sounds suspiciously a lot like Eddie Izzard.
 
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