Travertine Tile Help!!!!

[City Tiler]

Thanks guys

 

[macaroonie]

Hi gang I'm a newbie here and hope someone can help. I did a google for Travertine help and landed up here , so here goes.
I do total bathroom renovations and on a recent job the client took a fancy to a large 600 sq travertine. its about 18mm thick. These were laid on a very stiff WBP 1" ply floor. The floor has a 8mm heating trace inset linked to the towel warmer.
The tiles were laid with a flex dry powder adhesive ( bal if memory serves ) and grouted with Mapei flex grout.
Here is the problem. All was well for 3 months or so and then gradually some of the tiles have split. Strangely the splits follow the joint lines between the plywood. The ply and all the floor is very solid as the owner is a big laddie.
The ply is screwed down to the joists and the joists are reinforced with props to the solum, so it is all very stiff with no 'bounce'
My initial thought was that the heating had caused the issue but there is a tile that has no heating under it that has split also, so that kind of rules that out.
There are also tiles with heating that have not split.
The only thing that I can think of is that the tiles may have shrunk somewhat. Could it be the case that if they had been stored outside or in damp conditions that they would behave in the same way as timber ?
None of the tiles have come loose in any way.

I hope someone can throw some light on this for me as for now I am at a complete loss.:mad2:

Thanks in advance, Mac

 

[CTD Marie]

Hi.

Been in contact with a branch and they have advised the below.

1. I didn't realise that these tiles had to be sealed. Please advise what sealant I need and when I apply it (ie after/before grouting).
Use Lithofin Stain Stop. Treat the face of the tile before starting. Use a rag or roller to apply. It might need a couple of coats. Once you have grouted, and it is all clean, it might be worth re-doing the sealant to keep it all fresh and new. It will need to be re-sealed with Lithofin every few years depending on the level of use. Floors might need more often than walls. This product should not affect the colour or finish of the tiles.
2. What tools do I need to use to cut tiles. They are 10mm thick. I only need to cut straight edges.
An angle grinder will work, or an electric tile cutter. If it’s an electric tile cutter you may need a fairly hefty watt motor, for example 600w or above, ideally about 800w with a diamond blade. Straight edges could be cut using a score and snap such as a Rubi TS60, these can normally be loaned out from your local CTD, or visit a generic Hire Shop. If you need to drill them, for example to fit a toothbrush holder, use a masonry drill, or one of the Armeg drills. Larger holes such as waste pipes could also be cut using the Armeg drill sets.
3. What is the best/strongest adhesive that I should use? They are very heavy and I'm worried they won't hold on the walls.
For a 600x400 tile, you will need something fairly strong. There is a lot of weight in them. Also as it’s a light coloured natural tile, you will need a white coloured adhesive. If its going onto walls or floors I would use the BAL Rapidset White (for solid surfaces such as brick or concrete) or BAL Rapidset Flexible White (for flexible surfaces such as timber or plasterboard).
The walls will have a weight limit, but this will depend on the material the wall is made from. Ideally, you need to board the walls with something like Hardi Tile backer board or WEDI board, which will far exceed the weight limit of those tiles. If the wall is plastered, then you only have about 20kg per m2, which for that kind of tile would be a bit tight. If the wall is bare plasterboard you have about 32kg per m2, which will prob work, but doesn’t allow much room for comfort. If the wall is bare brick/stone etc then it should be ok. Make sure that the tiles have a good coverage of adhesive. Allow extra time from that recommended on the packaging before grouting, to make absolutely sure that it has cured totally.

4. What does it mean by them being honed and filled? I haven't got a clue if this is something I need to additionally do.
Honed and filled is a process that the tile has already been through, and refers to the fact that it feels smooth to the touch. When it was quarried, there were holes in the surface of the stone naturally. These have been filled with a resin so that the surface is smooth now. Ideally the tile should be flat bottomed, for ease of installation. You don’t need to “do” anything.
Any others tips/advice would be appreciated.

Natural stone is inherently porus. Even with the sealer etc, it may be possible for water to pass through the tiles under pressure, for example if you have a power shower. Ideally, you should tank the walls to make sure that if any water does get through, it wont cause any damage to your walls or floors. Something like the Homelux Tanking Mats would be appropriate, or if you are using Hardi Backer Boards, or WEDI boards, then these are waterproof in themselves. Natural stone is one of those products that looks great when in, but just requires a bit of tender love and care. Ideally get a tiler in to install it for you.




Hope this is of some help.

:yes: