R
Richard Edwards
Hi PeeGee Tips
There are two things as far as I can see. One is the expandsion / contraction laterally and the other is the strength of the bond. On travertine I tend to use Nicobonds 'Extra' White especially if it is light in colour and add Polymer additive as Nicobond Enhancer in the mix - Bal do something similar.
The only time I use 2 pack systems is if part of the floor is concrete/screed and part is timber /ply. Then I prefer BalFast Flex or also bagged in bucket 7.5 kg as Butec Tile to Wood - very difficult to work with but excellent for flex / sound proof etc. Clean joint as you go and keep work area/tools/hands and knees clean. As these two pack systems are seriously expensive, I sometimes use them on the timber and overlap by 500mm and switch back to cementous adh. If the extensions are same material as main part, then as long as sound and stable should be ok with Un-coupling membrane.
Not sure if this is the angle you were looking at - hope this helps

There are two things as far as I can see. One is the expandsion / contraction laterally and the other is the strength of the bond. On travertine I tend to use Nicobonds 'Extra' White especially if it is light in colour and add Polymer additive as Nicobond Enhancer in the mix - Bal do something similar.
The only time I use 2 pack systems is if part of the floor is concrete/screed and part is timber /ply. Then I prefer BalFast Flex or also bagged in bucket 7.5 kg as Butec Tile to Wood - very difficult to work with but excellent for flex / sound proof etc. Clean joint as you go and keep work area/tools/hands and knees clean. As these two pack systems are seriously expensive, I sometimes use them on the timber and overlap by 500mm and switch back to cementous adh. If the extensions are same material as main part, then as long as sound and stable should be ok with Un-coupling membrane.
Not sure if this is the angle you were looking at - hope this helps