Travertine

[Stef]

Slow set White is fine, back butter/fill them .
I wouldn't clean them until after you have fixed and before sealing, you will clean them as you go along anyway [emoji106]
Fix,clean,seal ,grout, clean,seal then go to pub

Exact same!!
I've always fixed travertine this way & never had any bother.

 

[Mouldy]

Cheers all. Intended to seal after fixing and then at least once after grouting. Would seal before fixing but to be honest I don't have the room here to do that and I'm also of a mind that handling them as little as possible will alleviate any damage to the edges......My theory anyway! :sofahide:

One other thought that occurs. How dry does this stuff have to be before fixing? Tiles are outside, (but under cover), but they will be cut using the Dewalt which is obviously a wet cutter!

 

[Stef]

I would leave them a day or 2 to make sure all moisture is released from the stone.
I use a bucket of clean water when fitting so they are getting cleaned as you go & I always give them a final wash once fitted.
I have used a heater in the past to get them dried quicker as we were on a tight schedule.

 

[Mouldy]

Interesting info my friend as guess what? I'm on a tight schedule!! :helpsmilie:

 

[Stef]

Interesting info my friend as guess what? I'm on a tight schedule!! :helpsmilie:

Invest in a small blow heater, keep you warm & dry out the tiles quicker.

 

[widler]

I always recommend sealing twice before fixing(including the sides) then, fix and grout, and seal twice again.

Using this method if you have any accidents whilst fixing,(or just after) the stone is covered. Also, by sealing after grouting you are sealing the grout too 🙂
Furthermore, any leaching from the adhesive or grout through the sides of the stone (usually the most porous area) is also covered.

I know what you mean, but if you work clean, back butter and full bed it won't leach through.
Personally I'd never seal stone 1st, leave it to breath while fitting, helps with the drying then seal it after the moisture has left , it's just always a thought in my mind why the watermarks show through the stone sometimes, moisture has been sealed in.
I'm probably wrong, I usually am

 

[Lithofin BOB]

I know what you mean, but if you work clean, back butter and full bed it won't leach through.
Personally I'd never seal stone 1st, leave it to breath while fitting, helps with the drying then seal it after the moisture has left , it's just always a thought in my mind why the watermarks show through the stone sometimes, moisture has been sealed in.
I'm probably wrong, I usually am

Your exactly right, I get 3-4 floor a month that are removed due to water marking, and these are generally pre sealed .basalt being a favourite at the moment, we would never recomend pre sealing prior to laying , as you state above you will need to release all moisture prior to the seal, this can take several days or week.

Nothing more painful than fitters that are on tight schedules with floors that go wrong, unfortunatly you guys are often pressured by builder, designers and the oldest the kitchen is coming wednesday!! We need to get this down, if it goes wrong you guys are put straight to the front of who's responsible.

Travs don't tend to show unless dabs install , but can appear darker, ofen can look less dusty so no one minds, other stones can bite you. Or rust!! Moisture and oxide Blume , get lots of these to.

 

[Mouldy]

Well its on the way....but it looks like she wants the floor polished! So my friends what's the best way to achieve this? Can it be done chemically or does it need to be done mechanically?

 

[Lithofin BOB]

Ideally mechanically, we do not recomend topical finishes ,waxes- emulsions or resin based in wet areas/ bathrooms due to moisture penetrating and poss turning these white. Also main issue slip- this will need to be considered.

Also a honed finish as it is finished , is better for disguising water marks for general and ongoing maintenance. If you polish , long term-water residues often with traces of shampoos, products can etch the surface of the finish. This will then require further polishing to upkeep. I would say the finish is ideal - as is, impregnated- maintained correctly- job done

If mechanical- ats gave great advice on other thread - trav etching or I would talk to them direct to run through or other proceses of poss powder polish or vitrification.

Whichever process if polishing, do a test on unlaid stone to see how the resin filler reacts to the process chosen.

 

[Mouldy]

Thanks Bob, I'll try and talk her out of it. Bloody women!! Have got LTP Matt stone but is there anything that will lift the colour other than polishing?