Underfloor heating and then Tiling on top

[DHTiling]

Update:

The builder who was here today has said the top layer - the levelling layer - is to be taken off as it wasn't applied properly. does this solve the problem? What should I watch out for? When should the tiler start?

Thank you for reading this and the supportive replies I have had.
Apologies are due to Dave for calling him Grumpy - in my defence I am totally stressed out.

Kind regards


Toerag :santa_cheesy:

Right..you can tell by the photo that it looks like leveller.....If he takes that badly cracked one up and re-levells with a suitable one for ufh then it should be fine...

 

[Spud]

Update:

The builder who was here today has said the top layer - the levelling layer - is to be taken off as it wasn't applied properly. does this solve the problem? What should I watch out for? When should the tiler start?

Thank you for reading this and the supportive replies I have had.
Apologies are due to Dave for calling him Grumpy - in my defence I am totally stressed out.

Kind regards


Toerag :santa_cheesy:

ask the builder how thick the screed is, it should be 60mm thick on a wet system ufh if its thinner this may be where you are getting problems with cracking ,wire mesh should be put in with an un bonded screed however some times fibre screed is ok ,the amount of cracking you have is unusual as it is such a small area, when the top coat comes off try crumbling the base between your fingers if you are able to do this insist he removes all the base coat and starts again as the original screed may have been mixed too dry or may not have enough cement in it ,
hope this helps
gary

 

[Uheat]

good advice above.

depending on the thickness of the wire will depend on the thickness of SLC. Make sure that you use a Latex SLC.

Who's system are you installing?

 

[Uheat]

hi Scully.

i take it you are using a carbon heating film.

if so, you are correct in that this is the wrong system for tiles.

Carbon film is used for Laminate, engineered wood and used with an overboard system you can even heat carpet and vinyl.

For insulation you need to be using something like Thermopanel or Ekoboard. 10mm is best. Although the concrete is insulated, using the above will help reduce warmup times and running costs.

I would suggest a cable mat, 160w/m2 for internal applications (kitchen/bathroom) or 200w/m2 for areas of higher heat loss (conservatories)
both of the above can be used for primary heating. If only floor warming required then 100w/m2 will be sufficient.

To repeat, if you are talking about carbon heating film then this is not the right product for a tiled floor covering. you need to use a cable system.

if you need any further help please get in touch.

Good Luck,

Aaron

 

[Dan]

Just bumping some threads in the underfloor heating forum. You can now find and search for both electric underfloor heating and water underfloor heating threads. By the way, if you feel some of the threads you want to be seen at the top of the forum need to be bumped back, for the next month or so from now, feel free to do that. Although it's not usually something we allow, whilst we're going through this process of changing over forum software, we see the need for this to happen.

 

[Dan]

Just bumping some threads in the underfloor heating forum. You can now find and search for both electric underfloor heating and water underfloor heating threads. By the way, if you feel some of the threads you want to be seen at the top of the forum need to be bumped back, for the next month or so from now, feel free to do that. Although it's not usually something we allow, whilst we're going through this process of changing over forum software, we see the need for this to happen.