Wall Boarding Advice

[DIYmonkey]

Hi all,

Thanks for reading..

I'm about to board my full bathroom having removed previous tiles and chipped back to base plaster.

What's the best board to use for the wet areas and what's the best board to use for the rest (some will also be tiled)

Also, I don't really want to baton out, so am I okay to install with Pink Grip?

And advice on boards, technique, etc would be appreciated.

Also, I'm looking for something I don't need to skim prior to painting...

Not a complete novice (have boarded and plastered many times before - just not in a bathroom).

Thabks in advance!

 

[Andy Allen]

If you don't want to baton out then dot and dab plaster board with dry wall adhesive and tank the wet area's. ..

 

[magga]

You can use Hardiebacker without batons, following these steps:

1. Ensure wall is sound, clean and dry and ready to receive HardieBacker®

• The rear of HardieBacker® must be wiped down to remove dust.
  
  
• All existing old dry lining should be removed as it has the potential
  
  to fail further.
  
  2. Use a high strength gap filling adhesive
  
  • Place 3 vertical 10-12mm beads of high strength, single part, gap filling cartridge adhesive, evenly down the back of the board.
    
    
  • Press board rmly against the wall into the desired position.
    
    3. Fasten HardieBacker® 6mm with masonry anchors
    
    • Fasten HardieBacker® with 9 (6mm x 60mm) stainless steel screws into brown wall plugs. Screws should remain 100mm from the top and bottom edges and 50mm from the left and right edges. Ensure min 50mm embedment into the wall.
      
      
    • Do not overdrive the screw; it must be ush with the face of the HardieBacker®.
      
      4. Tape joints prior to tiling
      

• Prior to setting the tiles, embed 50mm alkaline resistant Fibatape across joints and feather tile adhesive to leave a 150mm wide joint.

 

[White Room]

You say remove to plaster base, I take it it's not back to the brickwork ?

 

[DIYmonkey]

You say remove to plaster base, I take it it's not back to the brickwork ?

That's right. I took the skim coat off as it was a complete mess after removing previous tiles. The wall beneath is better, but powdery and not 100% straight.

Primary purpose of boarding is to get a nice flat and even base for decor. I would simply reskim it, but that wouldn't solve the wonky corner and undulating surface.

 

[DIYmonkey]

If you don't want to baton out then dot and dab plaster board with dry wall adhesive and tank the wet area's. ..

I like this idea as it seems the simplest. A couple of questions..

Will Water Resistant PB be sufficient for all the room Inc wet areas?

With the tanking, do I just need to tank a meter or so above the bath, or all the way to the ceiling.

And lastly, do I need to do anything with the edges where the boards meet (silicone?).

Oh, and do I need to prime the board to paint where the tiles won't be.

Thanks again all.

 

[White Room]

That's right. I took the skim coat off as it was a complete mess after removing previous tiles. The wall beneath is better, but powdery and not 100% straight.

Primary purpose of boarding is to get a nice flat and even base for decor. I would simply reskim it, but that wouldn't solve the wonky corner and undulating surface.

Personally I would remove any existing plaster and dry line the bathroom which would make it flat if done properly, the backing is probably a gypsum background or a weak render/lime mortar substrate.

Tank any areas that require it in shower area etc....

 

[DIYmonkey]

Personally I would remove any existing plaster and dry line the bathroom which would make it flat if done properly, the backing is probably a gypsum background or a weak render/lime mortar substrate.

Tank any areas that require it in shower area etc....

Yeah, I understand that would be the best approach and the one I'd considered until I realised just how much time, work and mess was involved (upto an inch thick in places).

Tbh it's a 120 year old terrace with limited resale value and I can't really justify several days work to achieve a 100% perfect finish.

I'm looking to do a good job and ensure it won't fail, but several days of chipping, clearing up & battoning before I can even begin boarding is something I'd rather avoid..

 

[magga]

If you batton first, you can probably avoid chipping it all off.

 

[White Room]

Yeah, I understand that would be the best approach and the one I'd considered until I realised just how much time, work and mess was involved (upto an inch thick in places).

Tbh it's a 120 year old terrace with limited resale value and I can't really justify several days work to achieve a 100% perfect finish.

I'm looking to do a good job and ensure it won't fail, but several days of chipping, clearing up & battoning before I can even begin boarding is something I'd rather avoid..

Is it lath and plaster then ?

 

[DIYmonkey]

Unfortunately, the placement of the entrance door prevents the buttoning option as the door wouldn't open properly..

 

[DIYmonkey]

Is it lath and plaster then ?

No, not lathe and plaster (although the ceilings are and I've had the pleasure of pulling one of those down...

Just seems like a lime based mortar, but very thick..

I realise I'll have to use mechanical fixings to secure after the dot and dab approach, but still preferable to either buttoning and/or chipping off.

 

[magga]

Hmm, well perhaps you could batton the other walls, and knock the one near door back to brick?

 

[White Room]

Sorry you've just lost me on the door thing ?

 

[magga]

He said he couldn't batton all walls as the door wouldn't open.

 

[Ian]

Sorry you've just lost me on the door thing ?

The frame must be tight up against one wall

 

[White Room]

No, not lathe and plaster (although the ceilings are and I've had the pleasure of pulling one of those down...

Just seems like a lime based mortar, but very thick..

I realise I'll have to use mechanical fixings to secure after the dot and dab approach, but still preferable to either buttoning and/or chipping off.

If your fixing plasterboard in the dot and dab method fixing shouldn't be required....

 

[DIYmonkey]

Exactly right, the frame is tight against the lhs wall, so if I battoned and boarded, the wall would come flush to the hinge..

 

[magga]

Yes, only fixings required for hardie

 

[DIYmonkey]

If your fixing plasterboard in the dot and dab method fixing shouldn't be required....

Even if the substrate is powdery and weak?

I thought the weight of the tiles may compromise the D&D?

 

[White Room]

Even if the substrate is powdery and weak?

I thought the weight of the tiles may compromise the D&D?

If your dot and dabbing to brickwork you should wet the areas where the dri wall adhesive is being fixed but the brickwork should still be clean from any lime mortar.

 

[DIYmonkey]

So given I'm fixing to what I believe to be a lime mortar, can I D&D and use mechanical fixings in addition. Say 300mm centres through the D&D as you would with Hardi?

 

[White Room]

No you don't fix to lime mortar, that has be removed, then you fix the boards directly to the brickwork...once you use mechanical fixings the screwheads must not break the paper surface otherwise they are next to useless.

 

[DIYmonkey]

No you don't fix to lime mortar, that has be removed, then you fix the boards directly to the brickwork...once you use mechanical fixings the screwheads must not break the paper surface otherwise they are next to useless.

Is there no other way? Another kind of board perhaps?

Taking 4 walls of a 4m x 3.6m room back to brick is one hell of a task.

 

[magga]

I think these are your only options, if you do it right first time, then you should never need to do it again.