wall prep for 10mm porcelain

[aflemi]

Guys, I have just ripped out a bathroom and walls are pretty poor, some skimmed, some plaster basecoat pulled off back to bare brick. I would like to take it all back to brick and 'smooth' over to take porc. What is best way to do this apart from dot'n'dab plasterboard. I need to be tiling within a few days if there is something that sets quickly? I would prefer not to add any more wall depth than I have to.

 

[White Room]

The plaster sounds pretty ropey so I won't mention ripping off and dry linning

 

[DHTiling]

D&D PB for me as well..

 

[aflemi]

D&D PB for me as well..

Thanks guys but is there any alternative to boarding out the walls?

 

[White Room]

There's no quick fix, even if you decided to skim the walls there not going to be ready in a couple days.

 

[aflemi]

Any barriers to using Ardex AM100? I thought they did something like this.

broken link removed

Only negative I can see is that they recommend 'Any paint or gypsum plaster or other barriers to adhesion should be thoroughly removed to expose a clean, sound background.'
Anyone used it on walls taken back to brick/blockwork? Did you use a primer?

 

[White Room]

Do you mean in patches, if so you need to remove any loose plaster and prime, not pva, then fill any holes.

Not the way I would go though IMO, but it's your choice, the walls don't sound all that bright and the weight limits may be reaching there limits.

 

[aflemi]

According to Ardex Technical, AM100 is ideal for this, advised to take back to brickwork, brush loose material off, no need to prime and apply thin 2mm coat initially then up to 20mm straight away. Load bearing up to 56kg sqm. apparently tileable after 2 hours, though i'm not in that rush.
Sounds good to me, anyone used it?

 

[White Room]

Only to build a curve, sticky stuff though

 

[aflemi]

Only to build a curve, sticky stuff though

I've got a plasterer mate doing the rendering as I need a very good plumb finish, so I'm hoping he'll be able to...........