outside corner in rectangle bathroom

[mr angry]

hi guys,

please excuse my terminology if i dont describe my current diy job. i have just ordered tools from amazon... cube laser, trowel, float, grout etc... i have not ordered the leveling tile kit yet as there are so many to choose from so hopefully someone can recommend a cheap good kit.

anyways, i am about to start tiling my bathroom but im not sure how to tackle the outside corner inside the bathroom. my choice is the offset method rather than the stacking one. maybe you can convince me otherwise :/

i would also add that i cannot get the rest of the pant off the wall as its stuck pretty good. ive read on google that all paint should be removed or by doing heavy scores in the plaster to make the adhesive bond. what do you recommend for heavy scoring the walls as i feel using a razor blade is not suffice.

i also have to tile the floor and upon checking this it looks like a 9m ply was used for the tiles already laid. should i use the same thickness of ply when i do the floor? if so, then i will be left with a step up into bathroom like before (not a big problem) around an inch height. i need to rip it all up anyways due to radiator pipe work and water inlet for toilet being offset.

the measurements for wall width 22cm for left width and 45cm for the right width. the tiles for the wall are 298mm x 498mm bought from b&q. if you need any more info please tell me.

should i start tiling the walls first or the floor?



thanks

cameron

 

[mr angry]

thanks andy how often do you use the ltp grout and tile protector?

cheers

 

[mr angry]

after checking a few tiles at the window area i had a few loose tiles which i took off to investigate. the window wall seems to have been made up of plasterboard and then a skim of brown plaster on top with a plastic wire mesh stuff inside it, downwards from window area, which is different from the side walls where this is made up of about an inch of white plaster, not sure if there is any mesh inside it but in comparison seems a lot thicker and better stability that the brown plaster on the window wall.

from where the tiles were loose there seems to be no mesh in this area towards the ceiling and side areas of window. when i pulled a few tiles off, the thin layer of brown plaster came away with the adhesive and was very weak however the rest of the wall seems intact and ok. im assuming that when this was done the need for this wire mesh was missed out left and right side of the window.

also, im not going to use the mapei super grip on last wall. so what stuff should i buy going forward from b&q or screwfix or anything else to help finish this job

thanks for your time guys

 

[mr angry]

is there a particular brand of primer for the last wall i need to finish from b&q, screwfix or somewhere else?

i have seen a few different ones....everbuild sbr bond, bal bond sbr, bal primer, bal prime apd..... which one is specific to my cause? i did read the prime apd which states for dusty tiling substrates, should i buy this one?

please help!

cheers

 

[Spare Tool]

You should really use the same manufacturers primer as your chosen adhesive and I don't buy from B&Q so don't know what they stock, have you not got a tile giant or Topps or even a local independent tile shop you can buy from instead? Where ever you get it from you'll need a mix with water bagged slowset adhesive..

 

[mr angry]

can anyone tell me if i can use bal white star plus ready mix adhesive and is it better than the mapei super grip? someone local is selling 7 tubs of it for £50 so was wondering if this would kill 2 birds if i dont need to prime the walls or would i still need to prime the walls if i purchased the bal stuff or not bother and buy the powder slow set stuff.

i also have an option with weber set rapid spf 20kg bags x 5 for £50 if thats better i can get that.

cheers

 

[mr angry]

im getting the weber set rapid 3 bags for £20 hopefully this is ok.

 

[Boggs]

That will be fine but is going to go off pretty quick.
A standard setting adhesive may be better if your not that quick tiling.
We use Tilemaster standard setaflex on walls, gives a few hours working time, but it’s used up before it goes off anyway.

 

[WetSaw]

You still need to get primer on the wall.

 

[Waluigi]

@Boggs - is that the red bag you’re using?

 

[Boggs]

Yeah, the maroon bag.

 

[Waluigi]

I wanted to try that but nobody stocks it near me.

 

[mr angry]

i will mix a small amount each time before i tile due to me being a novice. what primer should i get...the weber pr360 or something else?

cheers

 

[WetSaw]

i will mix a small amount each time before i tile due to me being a novice. what primer should i get...the weber pr360 or something else?

cheers

PR 360 will be fine.

 

[Waluigi]

Don’t forget to clean your bucket and tools between mixes otherwise the next mix will set much quicker than it should.

So much easier with a slow setting adhesive. I suppose at least you got a good deal though.......

 

[Boggs]

I wanted to try that but nobody stocks it near me.

I buy direct from Tilemaster but you have to have it by the pallet.
I have used many adhesives in the past but find this one of the nicest to use and is the best blend of price/performance.
I use their Ultimate adhesive on floors, but you have to be really clean as you go, it’s sticks to everything and is a pain to get off when set!

 

[mr angry]

@Waluigi

it was either the weber or the 7 tubs of bal white star plus. i was sure that the majority of folk here wouldve picked the 3 bags of weber stuff at £20.

i cant find a local supplier of the weber 360 but i can get the bal primer 1kg for £9.99 out of topps tiles is this ok to mix with weber?

 

[Boggs]

@Waluigi

it was either the weber or the 7 tubs of bal white star plus. i was sure that the majority of folk here wouldve picked the 3 bags of weber stuff at £20.

i cant find a local supplier of the weber 360 but i can get the bal primer 1kg for £9.99 out of topps tiles is this ok to mix with weber?

That will do the job just fine.

 

[mr angry]

i cant get to topps right now but can goto b&q later. can i use the mapei plaster primer £9 b&q?

cheers

 

[Boggs]

i cant get to topps right now but can goto b&q later. can i use the mapei plaster primer £9 b&q?

cheers

Yep.
Whatever you use the result will be better than the other 3 walls with nothing on and pre mixed addy.

 

[mr angry]

thanks guys

 

[Spare Tool]

I buy direct from Tilemaster but you have to have it by the pallet.
I have used many adhesives in the past but find this one of the nicest to use and is the best blend of price/performance.
I use their Ultimate adhesive on floors, but you have to be really clean as you go, it’s sticks to everything and is a pain to get off when set!

How'd you get an account with TM..like rocking horse sh#t?

 

[mr angry]

I ended up buying the unibond plaster primer from b&q as they didn't have any Mapei stuff in stock even though it showed 5 on their computers. Seems to be less dusty when wiping a finger down the wall so hopefully everything is all good

Can I use the remainder of this Weber rapid set stuff as a self leveler on the floor and is it flexible enough to use when I start the floor tiles?

Cheers

 

[WetSaw]

I really hope it's not just PVA..

 

[mr angry]

It doesn't say pva anywhere on it and that it's for gypsum or plaster for tiling and for use with cement adhesive.

It was £12 for the unibond 2kg.

I hope I've not effed up here :/

 

[mr angry]

ive made an error of judgment when i started tiling the last wall as when ive lined up my bead to coving it looks like its going to stick out roughly about 1cm. it looks like i used too much adhesive and packed it out to much when tiling upwards due to the walls being off. the downside is that its gradually moving outwards and looks to be about a 1cm out past the bottom of the coving leaving a big lip.

i suppose i could remove the coving and re-do it with a slightly bigger replacement but are there other ways to blend this in without removal?

cheers

 

[Martyn Leeds]

[QUOTE="

i suppose i could remove the coving and re-do it with a slightly bigger replacement but are there other ways to blend this in without removal?

cheers[/QUOTE]

No,
if its proud, then its proud.
You can polish a turd, but at the end of the day, its still a turd.

 

[mr angry]

So the answer is leave it and it can't be fixed? Surely replacing a slightly bigger coving will remedy the situation :/

Hasn't any non professional diyers had this issue in tiling before? Or has it always ended up perfect at coving?

 

[Boggs]

Can you post a picture?

 

[Martyn Leeds]

Sure you could put bigger coving on, but you asked for ways to blend it in without changing the coving.

Pics needed

 

[Waluigi]

Remove coving. Cut a strip of 12.5mm SE plasterboard. Bond to the wall with drywall adhesive. Attach new coving. All materials are inexpensive.

Use different thickness plasterboard to suite your exact requirement. 9.5mm and 15mm board is readily available.

Not much you can do with it if you want to leave the coving on. Either finish the tile short of the coving or put a trim on the top of the tile. Or both.