outside corner in rectangle bathroom

[mr angry]

hi guys,

please excuse my terminology if i dont describe my current diy job. i have just ordered tools from amazon... cube laser, trowel, float, grout etc... i have not ordered the leveling tile kit yet as there are so many to choose from so hopefully someone can recommend a cheap good kit.

anyways, i am about to start tiling my bathroom but im not sure how to tackle the outside corner inside the bathroom. my choice is the offset method rather than the stacking one. maybe you can convince me otherwise :/

i would also add that i cannot get the rest of the pant off the wall as its stuck pretty good. ive read on google that all paint should be removed or by doing heavy scores in the plaster to make the adhesive bond. what do you recommend for heavy scoring the walls as i feel using a razor blade is not suffice.

i also have to tile the floor and upon checking this it looks like a 9m ply was used for the tiles already laid. should i use the same thickness of ply when i do the floor? if so, then i will be left with a step up into bathroom like before (not a big problem) around an inch height. i need to rip it all up anyways due to radiator pipe work and water inlet for toilet being offset.

the measurements for wall width 22cm for left width and 45cm for the right width. the tiles for the wall are 298mm x 498mm bought from b&q. if you need any more info please tell me.

should i start tiling the walls first or the floor?



thanks

cameron

 

[mr angry]

hi guys,

is this acceptable for scoring walls or do i need to heavily score it more?

thanks

 

[Qwerty]

You need to remove all that paint

 

[mr angry]

hi guys,

what type of screws do i need for overboarding? i have a 22mm thick floorboard and 18mm wbp plywood going on top. the room is about 9ft x 5ft does anyone have a rough guess how many screws i need?

the walls are stripped back to plaster, do i need to prep the walls, floorboards or the ply before i start screwing it down?

to get the paint off the walls i just used an electric planer and it came off in seconds....very dusty though lol

here is an update on walls and pipework so far...



cheers

 

[jimthetiler]

On masonry walls I use a welders chipping tool,it looks like a small pick axe and makes short work of chopping into walls to create a mechanical fixing for tiles.Holes are space at about 50mm apart.First tile walls but leave out bottom cuts as you will tile the floor next and then bottom wall cuts last.
In my area I offer diyers an hour of tuition for £25 maybe there is a tiler here who can get you started.

 

[jimthetiler]

hardy backer is probably the best material to replace ply.

 

[mr angry]

hi guys,

my reactangular bathroom is not equal at the short sides ie window side and opposite door side. it is about 2-3cm out at the window side compared to the door side. i suppose what im trying to say is that it tapers outwards towards the window side if that makes sense. how do i tackle this before i start tiling?

if i leave it as i will know doubt have issues with squaring this off when i do the floor. any ideas on how to remedy this situation is most helpful

cheers

 

[mr angry]

update on floor...it looks like i have a slight dip in the middle of floor after i have screwed the plywood down...

should i use a self leveling compound? i would say the dip is about 3mm when i use my level across the floor. is there a tolerance for dips or will the tiling adhesive make up the shortfall?

cheers

 

[Qwerty]

You're outside of the tolerance of levels there if its across the length of a level. I would recommend self levelling compound to sort it. How big is the dip?

 

[mr angry]

the dip is about 3mm but the floor is solid should i still use self leveling compound?

any ideas how i can make an access hatch with tiles on top or if i can buy one complete to tile upon?

cheers

 

[mr angry]

hi,

i am about to put batons up on the wall but i need some urgent help!

i measured the walls from top to bottom and they are all different. here is a photo of measurements in cm. how do i tackle walls which are different sizes in height?

 

[Dumbo]

Set your battens at a height you have enough to cut off at the ceiling as well as the floor but also take I to consideration things like window head , window sill , door head , bath or shower tray or both and any other horizontal surface that is going to be in place before tiling.

 

[mr angry]

do i tile straight onto the walls with the adhesive or do i need to prep it first with a treatment? ive already started so will these tiles fall off in a few weeks because i didnt treat them?

i assumed when i removed all the paint i was good to go without doing anything else to the walls :/

please tell me its going to be ok!

 

[Perry]

You should never score the plaster it makes it weaker.

 

[mr angry]

what about the walls though....do i need to treat them or will i be safe to continue to tile over the current state?

 

[Spare Tool]

Should have been primed really..what adhesive are you using?

 

[mr angry]

im using mapei ultimate super grip ready mix.

 

[Spare Tool]

im using mapei ultimate super grip ready mix.

Oh is it self priming, is that recommended for 300x500 tiles?

 

[Time's Ran Out]

Ceramics up to 30x30cm!

 

[Spare Tool]

Maybe @jimthetiler £25 an hour might have been money well spent

 

[Time's Ran Out]

 

[mr angry]

it says on a sticker that it can be used on tiles 300x600 its as if it was an update on the adhesive without changing the actual bucket info. this was bought from b&q and i can provide the sticker on lid if you require.

going back to my initial problem what issues might i come across?

 

[Qwerty]

Any chance of a photo of said sticker please. I'm interested in what @Mapei UK Marketing would say about it.

The risk is that the adhesive wont set therefore little bond to the wall. Did you say your tiles were ceramic or porcelain?

 

[Spare Tool]

it says on a sticker that it can be used on tiles 300x600 its as if it was an update on the adhesive without changing the actual bucket info. this was bought from b&q and i can provide the sticker on lid if you require.

going back to my initial problem what issues might i come across?

I would suggest cutting your loses now and remove the tiles before they fall off and injure someone...bucket adhesive on dusty un-primed walls is never going to end well.

 

[mr angry]

hi guys,

unfortunately for me ive already started with the tiling and to remove them now would send my wife into a fit. mainly due to me taking so long and also doing all the work myself

if i continue as is what should i look out for if these decide to come loose? are there any given signs beforehand or is it a case of smash, bang, whallop at anytime. is there a test i can do to see if they are solid enough or stuck properly?

its the b&q tiles travertine ones (are they classed as stone?) and the ridged. this is what the staff member recommended when i was buying the stuff. i take it im using the wrong stuff for these type of tiles?

here are some photos of where im at

 

[Flintstone]

They are either porcelain or ceramic tiles, and that adhesive is not suitable for porcelain and it will never set, in my opinion it’s not suitable even if there ceramic tiles. Why did you just jump into this without first finding out at least the correct methods and materials?

 

[WetSaw]

Try pulling a tile or two off the wall, you'll soon know whether they're stuck or not.

 

[mr angry]

the guy at b&q recommended mapei ready mix and nobody mentioned anything about using a different adhesive for a certain tile. i did mention 2 weeks ago that i was putting batons up but i didnt think to mention or nobody said what type of adhesive are you using until i asked here about treating the walls and thats when andystiletelling asked about the adhesive.

how much force do i use if im to try and pull a tile off? ive done about 2/3 of the bathroom and the wall you see is the only one left. so is my diy job a lost cause? what do i do to try and salvage this?

will the adhesive take time to settle? do i leave it as is? will i start to notice tiles coming loose after several weeks? what are the given signs?

worried to say the least

cheers

 

[Spare Tool]

You've been given bad advise at B&Q, a cement based mix with water should have been used...however it does state on the sticker it is suitable and I would also like to hear Mapies take on this. Its the dusty unprimed walls that are the biggest concern imo, does it not mention the need for priming on the bucket? Imagine making dumplings and you sprinkle flour to stop the dumplings from sticking to the chopping board, same issue with your walls in a roundabout way. Try a scrapper under a corner of one of the first tiles you fixed, if that just pops straight off then your in trouble...if it takes some force then you might be ok. If you think they're stuck ok and you want to risk leaving them up then leave them at least two weeks before grouting and give the adhesive half a chance to go off, and prime whatevers left before sticking any more tiles on..

 

[mr angry]

ive tried the scraper on a corner of tile and it seems ok, didnt see any movement but thats because the ones i tested (bath/shower area) has been set for about 2 weeks, these feel solid. i dont want to tap with a rubber mallet incase i break the seal behind tile....or should i? i understand what you are saying about the dust example. i did brush the walls down before hand but i guess maybe that wasnt enough for my job at hand, lesson learned there! hopefully all is well....fingers crossed lol

this might be a daft question but to help further issues down the line, is it possible to add a small depth of silicone into the spacing of tiles and then grout over the top, or is this a NO NO? my reasoning behind this is to stop further water getting behind tiles.

i have read that grout lets in water over time and this will no doubt weaken my setup if it somehow penetrates the walls or adhesive. i am using a 5mm spacer but looks bigger because of the chamfered edges of these tiles so it looks like a 6/7mm gap :/


cheers

 

[Spare Tool]

No you can't silicone then grout over the top. Just take your time with the grouting and make sure there's no pinholes or missed bits of grout. Spray the grout after its properly dry with LTP grout and tile protector, really helps to make the grout more water resistant..