Different Mitre Testing

[rainsco]

hallo,

in my winter holidays i thinked a lot about tony. 🙂

i do mitres in most of my jobs.
i have two wet saws in diffrent lengths and weights and i use the light one almost every day because i can drag it out of my car in seconds and use it outdoor or indoor in my self built wet box.



but last year i had two jobs where i can´t use my wet saws. 5th floor and no place for it or the tiles were to long and heavy to handle on the mobile saws.


so last weekend i customized my mobile wet saw for long tiles ( 2.30m) in a mitre-able wet saw. i weld two adjustable supports. now i can mitre 2m tiles or natural stone.

so a little bit about the basic machine: it was my 100cm wet saw from englhard.
for a year i ordered a long railprofile to have a wet saw for difficult 120cm tiles and the 180cm tiles in future.
the machine looks very wild but it cuts very very exactly (i love it) and its very lightweight. i´m a one man service so this is very important for me.



let me say for me its not a problem to make exact mitre´s on granit or marble. and for the normal tiling job it is no problem with this or other machines to cut a 45 or 46 degree edge.
but if you want a perfect 45,00 ° edge on hard porcelain gres it is not easy with wet saws because every diamond blade drifts away. even on the bigger bridge saws.
i talked about this problem with italmont and the say yes its a problem.
with a brand new and perfekt tuned diamond blade it workes but then after time and a few cuts its over.
with a new 45° cutter in the rondomax its ok but then one side outwears faster.




so the result is okay and you can sand it a little bit and use it for tiling. but the result is no 100% perfect 45° edge. i mean 45,0 and no 44 or 46.



so my idea was when i saw the easy bevel mechanism that i use it on the backside of the tile to make mitres. i ordered it from italmont. the advantage of this tool is that the diamond tool lies in horizontal straight position to the material and is used completle on full surface.
the disadvantage of the esay bevel is the cost for the diamond tool. so i convert a customized cheap one on top and in future i don´t need the orginal ones from italmont. its also vacuum braced (K50) diamond and i can mitre more thick materials with it instead of the orginal which is restricted to 10mm bevel. cool!



the profiled backside of the tile is not ideal for the small weels but its not so hard to balance it. i use always vario grinders. i ordered a save shifter and a side watercooling to increase life time of the tool in future. and a 50 diameter diamond grinder for wet use. i write more about it next time.
View attachment 48135


the second plate is the customized one. the first plate is the orginal diamond tool.


so i went zero to the edge. not leave one or half mm i wanted to go as sharp as possilbe. the tile is a atlas concorde 10mm 120x60 porcelain gres. as you see very crisp.


fits perfect in 90°



left one is a star galaxy granite. i cut it 46° with my wet saw and didn´t use the easy bevel. its no needed on natural stone.
middle one is the finished glued porcelain tile. i glued it with akemi akepox 5030 in black. i talked to akemi and its ok for tiles. next day i sanded the bevel.




a close up to the corner. its not perfect but for the first try i think its enough.
i showed the edge two of my customers and no i have to face a big vanity with tiles and this edge and next week i do all the mitred corners on building site in a toilet room. i´m a little bit afraid of it but i think its possible.


so monay its BAU fairy in munich. i want to buy a new wet saw. i have a little connection to kaufmann tools in austria and i will speak to the technican. i have the idea of a 3m mobile lightweight wet saw wich can make perfect mitres in crisp porcelain gres without using external tools. oh no, i spend all my money in tools!!!!!

 

[jonnyc]

Well rainsco this only confirms what I posted about you last night as being the tiler of the year on this forum in my eyes.
Engineering in Deutschland is a highly revered profession .it would be a shame if you left the tiling profession to manufacture tiling tools. I don't know how many guys on this forum know Karl dahm but they are consistently the best in the business for tools and cutters .some of their own cutters look so basic but they do the job.
we in great Britain were also great engineers but this is not appreciated in this country now as it is in yours.

 

[Concrete guy]

I like your style and the modifications to the easy bevel are pretty good.

It's interesting to see you fix the mitres with epoxy glue also - that's something I expect stonemason to do but it never filtered down into the tiling industry here in the UK unless the tilers in question came from a stone background.

Blade deflection is a very real issue as these tiles become larger. It's even more of an issue when trying to mitre something 100cm long and upwards.

There's some good thinking here.

 

[jonnyc]

I don't think hevwould be using epoxy glue on site jobs for wall tiling but I might be wrong.
youre right it is very difficult to get good mitre on long cuts but I think hes done a good job and very inventive

 

[Tony73]

I don't think hevwould be using epoxy glue on site jobs for wall tiling but I might be wrong.
youre right it is very difficult to get good mitre on long cuts but I think hes done a good job and very inventive

I use stone glue on mitred corners some times. (mostly for bath top with bath panels or when i fit large stone/marble slabs)

 

[Tony73]

as long as you think about tony in a good way -tony is happy , rainsco :lol: . And i tooo like your stile, and your work is top classsss

 

[rainsco]

yes, next week i try to make this kind of corners on site in a toilet room. i use the same black tiles in 120x60. i want to use my small wet saw to make the miters raw and the easy bevel to make it perfekt. then i fit the tiles on wall and use a 50ml akepox 2030 to glue the corners. i talked to akemi if its ok and they say 2030 is the best one for it. it works on wet surface too. next day i want to bevel it dry with papers. i take some photos if it works. the story obove was the testing for it.
then i have the idea of making the shampoo niche in future in one part without using silikon in the edges.
mitre corners are still a market niche in germany. even most of the tilers are using rails. but glued edges are the next level for me. for better payed projekts of course.

some tilers i have seen made stair step in this technique. but they buy it ready glued or make it in a masonery with CNC. i don´t se the result live so i can´t decide if the quality is nice and the adhesive joint is unobtrusive.

because of the miters of porcelain gres with big wet saws: i was willing to buy a big emmedue or something equal wet saw for my workshop (budged 15000 euro) but all the sellers told me it is not possible to make perfekt 45° miters durable. (porcelain)
there are a special miter saw called Farnese Cutting Product :: Mitre Saw .. look at the video. thats nice. but it can only do mitres and only 45 +-3 degree. i don´t know if its perfekt for porcelain gres. and its to big. and i earn my money on site so i want all of my tools for site use.

 

[Tony73]

to make it stronger, you can cut small grooves (with angle grinder) in the tile, on back side of mitred tile (when using stone glue)

 

[Concrete guy]

The vacuum brazed cutting head that rainsco had fitting in the easy bevel will leave small grooves due to it's cutting action.

It was one of the bonus side effects of the cutting action of our tool also (I'd like to claim that was by design but it wasn't!).

 

[rainsco]

i was positiv surpriced about the vacuum brazed tool.
you know i was a little bit skeptic in your thread. but it works good with hard porcelain.
so i think your tool works fine but i would take it to improve the miters and not to make it complete on hard porcelain. on natural stone it doesn´t matter.

the easy bevel tool is in K100 and in diffrent other grids available. the customized tool is in K50. i think the best for porcelaingres is something beetween like 60 or 80. the K100 makes supersmooth edges and the advantage of the K50 is the speed and the price.

today i get the diamond tool. i think i try it wet next week.
on all tools it is an advantage to have a various speed grinder. the right speed is important. my K50 is without vibration on faster speed as the K100.