Different Mitre Testing

[Spud]

Hi Rainsco I made some video of hand mitres with a 800 long tile using a 115mm grinder with a porcelain blade and 100 buffing disc and will post some more video when I use the m14 mitre wheel ATS made for me to compare the results
if you watch the video I reverse edged the top edge of the tile to give me a straight line to work to as the cut edge was very rough from cutting with a manual tile cutter this also helps with protecting the glazed edge from chipping then just sanded the edge of the tile carefully until I had .5mm edge not sure what the exact angle created is but the mitres look very good fitted except that they open very slight at the centre of the joint where the tile is slightly bowed I will post some pictures of the finished job to show you the results when I get back there later this week [video=youtube;VuSD-AUNUiw]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VuSD-AUNUiw&feature=youtu.be[/video]

 

[Colour Republic]

Only just seen this. Great thread lads!

 

[rainsco]

yes, lets post some photos and videos.

i have done the sanding of the edges today. and then tiled the floor.
i think it will look good after groating and cleaning the tiles.


testet my new flex yesterday. the first tests the rail does not hold so i weld two special clamp i can slide into the original grooves on the backside. so now it fix perfekt.
for site i have a waterpump and tube.
i miter with the flex and the first try´s are difficult but then it gets better and better. i think i customize this saw as much as i can. its nice and mobile.



the next ting i absolutly need is a perfekt table. i want to built one.
i saw one in the festool catalog and i like to have clamps in all areas and built a perfekt mobile center for miter and sawing in no restrikted length.
http://csimg.shopwahl.de/srv/DE/290...id/T/340x340/C/FFFFFF/url/festool-festool.jpg

 

[Concrete guy]

The Flex saws are a great tool, they just didn't think about the design of the rail and didn't allow for any clamping points that allow you to cut from end to end without interruption. I even spoke with Flex about this and suggested some design changes but nothing appears to have happened.

What blade are you using in the Flex rainsco? The standard blade is really for stone only - it doesn't seem to behave very well with porcelain.

 

[rainsco]

the rail has two grooves. in the front groove you can use the clamps when you cut straight, in the second grooves you can use it when you use the miter cut. i make a video. my clamps are very good.
i use the turbo blade from flex. flex has 3 driffrent blades. i think i try a rainforced 150mm blade and i have to customize the waterflow. i need much more water on the blade.

flex has only have to rebuilt the festool saw and make it ready for water and stone use. the flex saw is ok but lot of things can be improved. the platform is not very solid.

 

[Concrete guy]

i was positiv surpriced about the vacuum brazed tool.
you know i was a little bit skeptic in your thread. but it works good with hard porcelain.
so i think your tool works fine but i would take it to improve the miters and not to make it complete on hard porcelain. on natural stone it doesn´t matter.

the easy bevel tool is in K100 and in diffrent other grids available. the customized tool is in K50. i think the best for porcelaingres is something beetween like 60 or 80. the K100 makes supersmooth edges and the advantage of the K50 is the speed and the price.

today i get the diamond tool. i think i try it wet next week.
on all tools it is an advantage to have a various speed grinder. the right speed is important. my K50 is without vibration on faster speed as the K100.

I've been thinking about the grade of diamond used in our tool. When I first came up with this idea I was trying to produce a single tool that would cut the mitre from scratch rather than a set of tools. The idea being I was trying to produce a low cost solution. That's why we produced the item with a 30/45 grit.

However there's absolutely no reason Why I couldn't produce this at 50/60 or 70/80 or even 140/180 grits if there is a market for it.

I had no idea that people went into multiple processes to produce quality mitres. This thread is actually an education. So if you'd like us to make different grades of vacuum brazed cutting head it's quite possible.

 

[Concrete guy]

flex has only have to rebuilt the festool saw and make it ready for water and stone use. the flex saw is ok but lot of things can be improved. the platform is not very solid.

They have redesigned the platform twice already - CSW 4160 was the original saw but the cast platform would fracture. They made this more substantial in the CSW 4161 - but it's already been replaced by a CS60 - All 3 tools outwardly look the same but each one desinged to overcome problems from the previous generation.

I have some blades coming in next month to fit this tool (turbo segmented 170mm) as I have several customers asking for them - The Flex blades are very expensive. But they are good.

 

[stevenflynn]

Where I am, Barcelona! you will only find Rubi. I purchased a DS machine a few years back and quiet satisfied with the result. As always one of my bigger wishes when it comes to these machines is that the cut would be done faster. Guess manufactures will get there someday. If I don't miter the cut then I use some of schuter profiles that certainly provide a good finish.

 

[rainsco]

last job i use only my new flex saw for miters on the toilet wall. i make epoxy glued miters too.

the flex has got a few advantages.. so i can cut and miter in unlimited lengths. the machine does not need very much water. a little bucket and the water pump are enough.
the machine don´t spray alot.
so i think i built me a multi funktional table and we will see if this machine replaces more often my wet saws.

pics from the last job. tomorrow i will sand the miters and i will see how perfekt the miters are.


i render the walls with ardex 950. its nice to work with it.

 

[charlie1]

but if you want a perfect 45,00 ° edge on hard porcelain gres it is not easy with wet saws because every diamond blade drifts away. even on the bigger bridge saws.

Hi rainsco, firstly, i have to say im a big fan of your work!

Why do you think that diamond blades seem to drift on the overhead cutters with porcelain? i have also noticed this. The way i wet cut my stone or porcelain on my dewalt 24000 is to firstly make a very slight pass over the whole cut first (no more than 1mm then do another 4 or 5 passes then do my full plunge cut from one end to the other , takes more time but reduces risk of the blde wandering imo.

 

[Protilers]

In my opinion........you cant get a "perfect" mitre on porcelain with a wetsaw........you cant......you need a specialist machine.....like the one from Ramondi......

failing that a perfect mtire can be achieved via a wetsaw and hand polishing..............my mate ATS Diamond tools is developing a "bit" that can be added to a flex machine (or angle grinder!)....
that has an m8 thread!!!..
that will do a mitre...........perfectly.......in principal...

I dont have one yet to test but I do have a couple of his other bits to check out in the near future........20mm full bullnose and 15mm quarter round.............VIDEO INCOMING!.....

all the best

Lee

 

[charlie1]

In my opinion........you cant get a "perfect" mitre on porcelain with a wetsaw........you cant......you need a specialist machine.....like the one from Ramondi......

failing that a perfect mtire can be achieved via a wetsaw and hand polishing..............my mate ATS Diamond tools is developing a "bit" that can be added to a flex machine (or angle grinder!)....
that has an m8 thread!!!..
that will do a mitre...........perfectly.......in principal...

I dont have one yet to test but I do have a couple of his other bits to check out in the near future........20mm full bullnose and 15mm quarter round.............VIDEO INCOMING!.....

all the best

Lee

Hi Lee, i have had same problem but why do you think it cant be achieved? theoretically, if set at 45 degree then both cuts should make square edge??

 

[Protilers]

Hi Lee, i have had same problem but why do you think it cant be achieved? theoretically, if set at 45 degree then both cuts should make square edge??

because the pressure of the porcelain on the very thin blade....it will wander....ATS supplied us with a blade for bullnosing (it was 20mm thick)......therefore it did not wander.......and it did the job........

A thin blade on a wetsaw will go off course on porcelain........because porcelain is soooooooooo hard!..........IMO

 

[DHTiling]

because the pressure of the porcelain on the very thin blade....it will wander....ATS supplied us with a blade for bullnosing (it was 20mm thick)......therefore it did not wander.......and it did the job........

A thin blade on a wetsaw will go off course on porcelain........because porcelain is soooooooooo hard!..........IMO

Use a Montolit DNA blade...

 

[Protilers]

Use a Montolit DNA blade...

does that blade do a "perfect" mitre on porcelain Dave?.....one you can marble mastic two tiles together and fit as an L shape to a corner in one piece?

because if it does I have to get one......

Lee