Tiling onto plywood

F

flyfisher

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• May 20, 2012

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• #31 of 73

OK, I said I tended to make slow progress but here are some photos as requested by Daz (that'll teach you!).

Just to recap, the walls are 18mm wbp ply on a close studded 4x2 frame and screwed at about 10-inch centres (closer around the edges). I used a Mapei waterproofing kit and applied three coats. I then fixed the tiles with Mapei Keraflex as recommended by Mapei's technical helpline.

I cut the holes using 365drills diamond holesaws. A bit expensive for a DIYer as I doubt I'll ever use them very much again, but they certainly made an easy and neat job of the holes.

I hope the pros don't fall about laughing too much . . . .

 

F

flyfisher

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• May 20, 2012

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• #32 of 73

So, my next obvious question is about the grouting.

What is the latest and greatest in grouting that will not discolour and harbour mould?

I've read about epoxy grouts but the thought of trying to neatly apply "araldite" between tiles seems a bit alarming. :lol:

OK, I'm sure it can't really be like that but, seriously, is epoxy grout something worth considering or would the modern 'wipe-it-in-wipe-it-off' grouting be just as good these days?

 

kilty55

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Arms

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• May 21, 2012

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• #33 of 73

whats happening with the ceiling flyfisher? have you tanked timber on it?

 

F

flyfisher

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• May 21, 2012

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• #34 of 73

kilty55 said:

whats happening with the ceiling flyfisher? have you tanked timber on it?

Click to expand...

Yes, and I'll be tiling it this week sometime.

That's why I'm starting to think about the best sort of grouting to use.

I think I've been put off epoxy grout from what I've read, though I've been reading some good things about urethane grout.

Any recommendations?

 

kilty55

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• May 22, 2012

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• #35 of 73

what tile are you sticking to the timber ceiling?

 

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Muse2k8

• May 22, 2012

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• #36 of 73

For the grout have a look at the bal microban grouts. You don't need to worry about using an epoxy they are really best for food preparation areas. Because you have tanked the area then you don't need a waterproof grout.

 

F

flyfisher

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• May 22, 2012

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• #37 of 73

kilty55 said:

what tile are you sticking to the timber ceiling?

Click to expand...

The same white tiles as the walls. Is this likely to be a problem?

 

F

flyfisher

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• May 22, 2012

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• #38 of 73

Muse2k8 said:

For the grout have a look at the bal microban grouts. You don't need to worry about using an epoxy they are really best for food preparation areas. Because you have tanked the area then you don't need a waterproof grout.

Click to expand...

Thanks for that. I'm thinking more about mould and general dirt-resistance than waterproofing.

My thinking is that 'normal' grouts will absorb some water (and dirt?) and therefore promote mould growth. I understand modern grouts contain mould inhibitors but does this last forever or just put off the inevitable grubbiness for a few years?

It has always semed to me that grout is the weakest link with tiling and can quickly spoil a nice job, so I was just wondering what the professionals use these days.

 

J

jstrats

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• May 22, 2012

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• #39 of 73

I wouldn't recommend tiling the ceiling with that tile, maybe a glass mosaic but not a large format tile.

I would use Mapei grout.

 

F

flyfisher

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• May 22, 2012

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• #40 of 73

Ah, that's disappointing. I don't fancy tiling a ceiling area with mosaic tiles - the two mosaic strips I used on the walls were fiddly enough!

I thought modern tile adhesives were OK for ceilings and the tiles are not particularly heavy.

Hmm, perhaps a should just paint the cubicle ceiling?

Any other suggestions?

 

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jstrats

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• May 22, 2012

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• #41 of 73

Ring up Bal or Mapei technical help department and see what they recommend.

 

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Peter

• May 22, 2012

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• #42 of 73

The tiled plywood ceiling would be a good incentive not to stand in the shower too long. :lol:

 

M

Muse2k8

• May 23, 2012

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• #43 of 73

The bal microban grouts are formulated specifically to stop mould. There's the mapei equivalent but they are more of a pain to use I find. Bal, ardex and mapei are usually the choice of the pros though.

 

M

Muse2k8

• May 23, 2012

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• #44 of 73

Oh and for the ceiling I would definitely just opt for paint lol. Tiles generally don't stick too well to plywood as it is without having them above your head

 

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flyfisher

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• May 23, 2012

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• #45 of 73

I spoke to a builder friend yesterday and asked him about epoxy grout. He suggested it would be beyond my DIY skills to manage a neat job. :lol:

So I reckon I'll be using bal microban grout.

Meanwhile, just to show I don't always listen to reason, I decided to tile the shower ceiling anyway. :yikes:

I figured that if they started to fall off, they would just match the shambles that is the rest of the house. It's surprising how relaxed you can eventually get about windows where the original wood lintels have crumbled to dust, cracks in the walls and doors with such wide gaps that toads find their way into the kitchen overnight.