Discuss Tiling onto plywood in the British & UK Tiling Forum area at TilersForums.com.

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OK, I said I tended to make slow progress but here are some photos as requested by Daz (that'll teach you!).

Just to recap, the walls are 18mm wbp ply on a close studded 4x2 frame and screwed at about 10-inch centres (closer around the edges). I used a Mapei waterproofing kit and applied three coats. I then fixed the tiles with Mapei Keraflex as recommended by Mapei's technical helpline.

I cut the holes using 365drills diamond holesaws. A bit expensive for a DIYer as I doubt I'll ever use them very much again, but they certainly made an easy and neat job of the holes.

I hope the pros don't fall about laughing too much . . . .

shower6.jpg shower1.jpg shower2.jpg shower3.jpg shower4.jpg shower5.jpg
 
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So, my next obvious question is about the grouting.

What is the latest and greatest in grouting that will not discolour and harbour mould?

I've read about epoxy grouts but the thought of trying to neatly apply "araldite" between tiles seems a bit alarming. :lol:

OK, I'm sure it can't really be like that but, seriously, is epoxy grout something worth considering or would the modern 'wipe-it-in-wipe-it-off' grouting be just as good these days?
 
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whats happening with the ceiling flyfisher? have you tanked timber on it?

Yes, and I'll be tiling it this week sometime.

That's why I'm starting to think about the best sort of grouting to use.

I think I've been put off epoxy grout from what I've read, though I've been reading some good things about urethane grout.

Any recommendations?
 
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For the grout have a look at the bal microban grouts. You don't need to worry about using an epoxy they are really best for food preparation areas. Because you have tanked the area then you don't need a waterproof grout.

Thanks for that. I'm thinking more about mould and general dirt-resistance than waterproofing.

My thinking is that 'normal' grouts will absorb some water (and dirt?) and therefore promote mould growth. I understand modern grouts contain mould inhibitors but does this last forever or just put off the inevitable grubbiness for a few years?

It has always semed to me that grout is the weakest link with tiling and can quickly spoil a nice job, so I was just wondering what the professionals use these days.
 
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Ah, that's disappointing. I don't fancy tiling a ceiling area with mosaic tiles - the two mosaic strips I used on the walls were fiddly enough!

I thought modern tile adhesives were OK for ceilings and the tiles are not particularly heavy.

Hmm, perhaps a should just paint the cubicle ceiling?

Any other suggestions?
 
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I spoke to a builder friend yesterday and asked him about epoxy grout. He suggested it would be beyond my DIY skills to manage a neat job. :lol:

So I reckon I'll be using bal microban grout.

Meanwhile, just to show I don't always listen to reason, I decided to tile the shower ceiling anyway. :yikes:

I figured that if they started to fall off, they would just match the shambles that is the rest of the house. It's surprising how relaxed you can eventually get about windows where the original wood lintels have crumbled to dust, cracks in the walls and doors with such wide gaps that toads find their way into the kitchen overnight.

ceilingtiles.JPG
 

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Which tile adhesive brand did you use most this year?

  • Palace

    Votes: 9 5.6%
  • Kerakoll

    Votes: 17 10.6%
  • Ardex

    Votes: 11 6.8%
  • Mapei

    Votes: 44 27.3%
  • Ultra Tile

    Votes: 21 13.0%
  • BAL

    Votes: 38 23.6%
  • Wedi

    Votes: 4 2.5%
  • Benfer

    Votes: 3 1.9%
  • Tilemaster

    Votes: 22 13.7%
  • Weber

    Votes: 19 11.8%
  • Other (any other brand not listed)

    Votes: 17 10.6%
  • Nicobond

    Votes: 8 5.0%
  • Norcros

    Votes: 2 1.2%
  • Kelmore

    Votes: 5 3.1%

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