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Discuss Acrylic primer didn't bond to Larsen Tile Adhesive in the Tile Adhesive and Grout Advice area at TilersForums.com.
no pva used, the larsen rep is going to email me his report tomorrow. I'm sure he'll take full responsibility for his products failure and reimburse me for repairs needed 🤪Just a thought but the plasterer didnt pva it did he?
If it is still tacky then something has gone wrong somewhere !but not to say anything about certain adhesives !but larsen is one I will never use ! Along with ultra and a few others !! I have used mapei products years now and their adhesives are if not the best certainly amongst the best !keraquik and keraflex !! And just use sbr to prime walls and floors etc it is so strongI'd say roughly 20% of the primer stayed on the tile when removed the rest was on the wall with both sides still tacky. My issue is the lack of bond, the skim coat is maximum 3mm thick so when removing a tile it should theoretically take skim and all. Walls were prepared before sealer was applied and when 1:1 mixture was painted on the skim its darkened as to suggest it had penetrated the skim and bonded. Rep came up with 3 excuses in less than 5 minutes
1. Weight of the tile was too much for the sealer/plaster
2. Coverage on tile (ridges not fully collapsed)
3. Expansion-he said larsen require a minimum of every 5 meters for am expansion joint.
So I've a feeling I'll get nowhere with then, I think the best solution is to stop using Larsen products 🤷🏻♂
I think its the last time I'll be using them, I've informed local tile shops not to send any of their products out to jobs I'm on. If they can't guarantee the product I can't guarantee my work and that is not acceptable 🤷🏻♂If it is still tacky then something has gone wrong somewhere !but not to say anything about certain adhesives !but larsen is one I will never use ! Along with ultra and a few others !! I have used mapei products years now and their adhesives are if not the best certainly amongst the best !keraquik and keraflex !! And just use sbr to prime walls and floors etc it is so strong
I think its the last time I'll be using them, I've informed local tile shops not to send any of their products out to jobs I'm on. If they can't guarantee the product I can't guarantee my work and that is not acceptable
I understand what you are trying to say but if you are using a product and the manufacturer advises the best way to use it, my thinking was deviation from the recommended application would void any warranty from the company? In this case it didn't matter as the rep was true to form and weaseled out by taking no responsibility. After a conversation over text with him I quickly realised he'd have difficulty distinguishing between arse and elbow.All Primer, SBR is not ok with all surfaces, for ex. some months ago I have done a job where the builders leveled up the floor with some self leveling compound. Cleaned up the surface, tried it 3 days in a row, on dry and damp surface, applied several coats of Bal primer diluted as recommended by the manufacturer, always let it cure over night, the very next day in some areas where the self leveling compound was more like gypsym dusty kind of looking, the darn primer piled off. So, I would say, never follow the manufacturer advice, do whatever you think is necessary for that particular job. I ended up recleaning the area, damp it with water, mixed the adhesive with SBR and applied the subfloor on top. Achieved a very good bonding. I do believe in the new technology, it just does not always work out as it supposed to. You always have to be a step above and use your common sense.
Some areas of the floor had to be grinded off, the primer would not pill off in those areas. See last picture where the primer penetrated the compound and would not pill off.
Sorry for the late welcome.I had an issue recently that I've never seen before and any help or advice would be greatly appreciated. I used a Larsen acrylic primer on gyspum walls as instructed on product (walls had been skimmed 8+ weeks previous and moisture tested prior to sealing and tiling). 18 months later and it seems the sealer has not bonded to the wall adhesive. Wall was coated with a 12mm trowel and a standard set flexible adhesive used, the tiles are 900mm by 150mm thin porcelain and within weight limit of plaster. Tiles have now come away from the wall with 100% of adhesive on the tiles and 0% left on the wall with sealer still appearing tacky on the walls. Walls are tiled 1.2m high around the room and the issue is only where sealer was applied to gypsum walls,other walls are scratch coated and solid as should be expected. Usually removal of tiles like these should take plaster and all with it, is this is a sealer failure or am I missing something? Apologies for the long post but I'm in the trade a long time and never encountered this.
Thanks
Hi trigger, its on an internal wall and was moisture tested before primer was applied. Tiling is only 1.2 meters high on the wall and is painted above if damp was an issue I'd imagine the paint would be showing signs of this.Is it a ground floor external wall? Cavity wall or solid wall?
Just wondering if the wall could be damp for the primer to remain tacky. Gypsum plasters shouldn't really be used on solid walls as they act like a sponge and absorb moisture.
No Joy, Larsen rep sent through a report blaming everything but their product and claimed that the tile had taken a "weak" layer of gypsum off the wall, I asked how this was possible when trowel marks and sealer can still be seen on the wall and pointed out what he was actually seeing was collapsed adhesive ridges but he didnt want to hear it and said his report was final. Several jobs within my area have failed recently all different tilers all Larsen products and they have not taken responsibility for any of them, I think one of the tile shops have stopped supplying their products because of it. How are their products viewed by tilers in your area Lou?Sorry for the late welcome.
Any joy fixing your issues?
Sorry for the late welcome.
Any joy fixing your issues?
I'm not a tiler myself but @Dan said they're not one of the most used tile adhesives. We shall start a thread and get some feedback.No Joy, Larsen rep sent through a report blaming everything but their product and claimed that the tile had taken a "weak" layer of gypsum off the wall, I asked how this was possible when trowel marks and sealer can still be seen on the wall and pointed out what he was actually seeing was collapsed adhesive ridges but he didnt want to hear it and said his report was final. Several jobs within my area have failed recently all different tilers all Larsen products and they have not taken responsibility for any of them, I think one of the tile shops have stopped supplying their products because of it. How are their products viewed by tilers in your area Lou?
Their say isn't final. You can pay The Tile Association a fortune for them to get an 'independent expert' in and do their own report, and if that says it's their adhesive or other product, then you can take them to court and 9/10 the court will go in your favour should the report be in your favour. People have done this a few times on here.No Joy, Larsen rep sent through a report blaming everything but their product and claimed that the tile had taken a "weak" layer of gypsum off the wall, I asked how this was possible when trowel marks and sealer can still be seen on the wall and pointed out what he was actually seeing was collapsed adhesive ridges but he didnt want to hear it and said his report was final. Several jobs within my area have failed recently all different tilers all Larsen products and they have not taken responsibility for any of them, I think one of the tile shops have stopped supplying their products because of it. How are their products viewed by tilers in your area Lou?
Reply to Acrylic primer didn't bond to Larsen Tile Adhesive in the Tile Adhesive and Grout Advice area at TilersForums.com