D
DHTiling
The pattern is 2 sizes of tile,how else would it be laid.
As to the floor, unless the slate is a perfect honed tile and fully calibrated then this small lippage is acceptable.
Slate is clefted and does bow slightly if not machine finished both sides.
Let's not hang this tiler when no one but the tiler knows the grading of the stone.
And as for chiseling slate edges that finish of surface is crazy. It will ruin the look.
The backs are machined to get them as flat as possible on that type of calibrated slate and the surface isn't heavily clefted like hand split slate.
As with jay , careful selection can minimise lipping but not 100% avoidable.
If you have spares, then stand a few edge on and check for slight bowing and thickness variation end to end.
But I had to sort of stick up for the tiler here a bit, when we do not know the grading of the slate and I have laid enough of it over the years to know the finish you can get.
What will also say is , a wider joint would have helped if the calibration wasn't the best.
As to the floor, unless the slate is a perfect honed tile and fully calibrated then this small lippage is acceptable.
Slate is clefted and does bow slightly if not machine finished both sides.
Let's not hang this tiler when no one but the tiler knows the grading of the stone.
And as for chiseling slate edges that finish of surface is crazy. It will ruin the look.
The backs are machined to get them as flat as possible on that type of calibrated slate and the surface isn't heavily clefted like hand split slate.
As with jay , careful selection can minimise lipping but not 100% avoidable.
If you have spares, then stand a few edge on and check for slight bowing and thickness variation end to end.
But I had to sort of stick up for the tiler here a bit, when we do not know the grading of the slate and I have laid enough of it over the years to know the finish you can get.
What will also say is , a wider joint would have helped if the calibration wasn't the best.