Advice on tiling large floor

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so we agree if you use the heat on (over 2 days) cool down (over 1 day)to off.
Use a flexi adhesive (should be S1 standard..i use keraquick and latex plus) and the room is not in poland in winter....meaning at normal uk room temp, you dont need to use a decoupler,you can just tile....provided you have S1 (consult your adhesive supplier).
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p.s keraquick is already flexable....its the latex plus additive that makes it S1 standard...
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p.p.s i have read your post again and you must understand that the screed MUST have the underfloor heating put on and the temp raised over 2 days to max and then let to ool down to off over 1 day before you even think of tiling....otherwise:furious3:
this is imperative for your exisiting "green" screed to expand and contract to its maximums and minimums.....once this has happend you can tile with an s1 standard adhesive without the decoupler....
 
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You can tile onto it no probs with the correct prep and products..but some screeds(floors) are prone to curling and the ditra etc would prevent any probs transferring to the tiled surface.....some peeps see this as overkill but large floors need it sometimes...i have tiled straight onto large floors loads of times and no probs...but a large heated floor then i would think about an uncoupling membrane...but its down to personal preference and how confident you are with the substrate.......:thumbsup: neither method is wrong its just down to choice......
 
agree with DH, but mapei reccomend adesilx vs45 to stick dierta to damp screeds.....
this stiff is a vinyl contact adhesive....its worse than epoxy grout if you get what i mean.....i personally would prefer to wait.......but dietra does cover a multitude of sins.....:yes:
 
Thanks again for all the advice.

It will not be possible to connect and run the ufh before tiling. However, I have been in touch with Schluter with this problem, and they say the ditra matting should cope with the subsequent expansion and contraction when the ufh is finally connected, provided that we raise the temperature gradually, as all of you suggested.

So I'll be laying the mat, then. Bank manager will be pleased...


Thanks again.

Heffs
 
as to last post by pawelzic.....i have never heard of an underfloor heating manafacturer advising that the element is on while you install.....

Hello protilers. Just want to explain that you sure couldn´t have heard of this as this is a german regulation. It is from the so called "ZDB Merkblatt Keramische Fliesen auf beheizten Fußbodenkonstruktionen", translated "Ceramic tiles on underfloor heated grounds". This regulation says, that:
- at normal climate (= temperature > 5°C) the UFH shall be off as the surroundin temperature is sufficiant,
- at cold climate (= temperature < 5°C) the UFH shall be in function but not over 15°C.

As we share the same problems and technics I think this regulation can be transferred to typical UK tile works. Hope I have explained well enough, cheers Martin.:thumbsup:
 
palz.......i understand what you are saying......but why not heat the room....not the element.........not to mention that under your knees it will be hot!!!
most adhesives work in the temps you state, but what about expansion and contraction....in may be different in germany (much,much colder) but in the u.k all underfloor manafactures reccommend that its off and not turned on for up to two weeks and the turned on gradually......5 deg,10 deg,15 deg etc. over as many days........
 
most adhesives work in the temps you state, but what about expansion and contraction....in may be different in germany (much,much colder) but in the u.k all underfloor manafactures reccommend that its off and not turned on for up to two weeks and the turned on gradually......5 deg,10 deg,15 deg etc. over as many days........

Yes protilers, I absolutely agree.

My a.m. answer was refering to the fact that the screed is already 2 month old and the UFH was already in function. Sorry for being misunderstood. Cheers, Martin
 
I seem to have had a post disappear into the ether somewhere, but I will restate what I said earlier, Just for reference, for Protilers benefit, the BAL Professional Fixers Guide states that the UFH system does not need to be off before tiling if the weather is cold - and they are speaking of wet systems here, as long as the temprature is turned down below 15c. in cold weather it can be left on.:thumbsup:

Grumpy
 

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