Discuss anhyrdrite screeds in the British & UK Tiling Forum area at TilersForums.com.

J

JOHNNYCLARKE

Branty
You mean you think primer might not stick to screed.

Have you had experience with this yourself.
My problem is that I put in my quote that I could put ditra down if screed had been down for five days or over but not fully dry. This is fine for normal screeds for underfloor heating and client gave me go ahead and paid for ditra for 180 sq mts.
But I dont know if this is ok on this anhydrite screed.
Ive only had four of these out of maybe 300 in last four years!!The builder was told he should let screed dry 1 mm a day but ignored it because he has laid on this screed before early and had no problems and did not tell me .

It was only when I found out what screed was down last week did I contact screed firm and told should wait.
The checked with Mapei and Webber who both said ok to put ditra down but neither mentioined the 2 % min moisture and I have only heard this now.

I could say they should wait but this is 7k of work over next two weeks and I am fully booked for months afterwards.
 
B

Branty

Johnny I think you need to get some advice from Schluter.
I have fixed to anhydrite in the past. The first one came up, since then I always got a meter reading. One of below 0.5% means its ok to tile onto.
I don't think there's a difinitive figure when it comes to using a decoupling membrane. I think TTA put a figure out of 2%, but not sure.
Give Schluter a call, see what they say.
The problem with this screed over a normal sand and cement screed, is the huge volume of water.
Try giving BAL tech a call tommorrow and see what they say.
phone.gif
 
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S

Sully

Branty,

I don't want to hijack Johnnys post but my query is along similiar lines.

Went to see a new build extension job yesterday and the flooring was at an early stage. I could see concrete between concrete beems on the floor and the house owner advised that building regs had specified a 'floating floor' due to the soil / trees near the house. Over this will be piped underfloor heating working of the megaoflow system and this will be covered in 'screed'. I asked the householder to get me more details from the builder. Is it likely to be anhydrite screed? Or put another way, when / why do they use an anhydrite over a sand & cement. Total area is 40sq/m.

Secondly on a sand and cement screed - is it minimum 4 weeks drying or 1 day per mm. I also need to spec a 75mm screed on another job so just want to be sure that it's not 75 days drying time.

Andrew
 
J

JOHNNYCLARKE

sully

sand/cement screed has different drying time to anhydrite. The BS has changed in last few years and is something like 25mm for 1st week and then 1mm a day thereafter.
I always work on a month but that is me not the ruling.
You will find very few contractors stick to the new regs as it is simply too long for them to wait.
And the other main difference is you definitely can put ditra down on screed as soon as you can walk on it so say schluter. I always say min 5 days.
You can check any of this info by calling the technical dept of your adhesive manufacturer provided they are a big outfit set up for it.
My problem was it being weekend and getting one piece of advice from a tech dept and then hearing more detailed info on this forum that I cannot check till monday.
Johnny
 
G

GazTech

A List of Screed Products used in Floor Screeding

The list below helps explain the difference in the types of screed products used in floor screeding.

Sand and Cement Screed
Sand and cement screed is otherwise known as traditional screed. Sand and cement are the components of screed and are combined together with water using a screed pump or mixer. Sand and cement screed is ideal for every situations such as ground floor slabs, suspended floors and as a lightweight topping. It can also be used over insulation and with underfloor heating. Fibre Screed
Fibre screed, also called PP fibre screed or reinforced screed, is ideal in any situation especially sites with high foot traffic and can be used with underfloor heating systems. Polypropyene fibres (refered to as PP fibres) are combined with sand and cement screed. The use of fibres inhibits shrinkage cracking, reduces settlement cracking, improves cohesions, increases strength, permeability and the screed is more shatter and impact resistant. It can also be used over insulation and with underfloor heating. Polymer Screed
Polymer Screed is ideal for concrete ground floor slabs, precast concrete, suspended floors and when a thinner depth is required. It combines sand and cement screed with a polymer resin, such as a SBR Bonding Agent. It is a very high quality bonding agent in which a carboxylated styrene butadiene copolymer latex (SBR) replaces conventional PVA. This increases durability, reduces shrinkage and cracking, increases flexibility and toughness, permeability and bonding strength. SBR latex, unlike PVA, cannot be re-emulsified once cured. It can be used over insulation.

Anhydrite Screed
Anhydrite screed, refered to as flo, flow, poured and liquid screed, is ideal for commercial buildings. It is a self leveling screed which is poured directly onto a floor for a fast application of 2000 square meters. Anhydrite screed reduces cracking, is light weight, protein free, environmentally friendly and high strength. It can also be used over insulation and with underfloor heating. Fast Drying Screed
Fast Drying screed is a combination of sand, cement and an admixture such as Isocrete K-Screed, Ronacrete Uniscreed or alternatives. It is suitable for interiors and exteriors. It is a specialist hydraulic binder which allows for rapid drying and will harden within 24 hours and become completely dry within approx. 7 days. It can also be used over insulation and with underfloor heating. Latex Screed
Latex or Waterproofer Planicrete is added to mortars, screeds and renders to increase mechanical strength and adhesion to the substrate. It is a synthetic rubber latex for improving adhesion of cementitious mortars and is a latex based on synthetic polymers, which cannot be re-emulsified in water after hardening and are also resistant to saponification. Click for a full explanation of saponification.
 
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G

GazTech

Power Floated Concrete
power-floated concrete (or any concrete with a shiny finish) needs to be suitably abraded/scarified/scabbled in order to expose aggregate prior to tiling, otherwise there may not be an adequate bond strength with the adhesive.


The recommended bed thickness of the adhesive should not be exceeded....Gaz
 
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C

Cliff Anger

just been to look at job now with a diy dampmeter and it feels and looks damp still after 24 days down.
Screed is apparently 40 mm thick which should mean 40 days to dry.
Dont know what to do as committed myself after talking to the mapei tech guy on friday who said would be ok.
If i put this accrylic primer G down will this stop any moisture from screed coming up or just some?
I thought if it really seals in screed then any moisture would move sideways and up wall which would be fine would it not!

CLIFF IF YOU LOOK AT THIS I WOULD REALLY APPRECIATE MORE ADVICE OR CAN CONTACT ME DIRECT.
I AM DUE TO START MONDAY BASED ON MAPEI INFO BUT NOW IM CONFUSED.

THANKS JOHNNY

Colin Stanyard our Anhydrite Guru will call you first thing Monday !

MY Post just got tagged with a screedflo Anhydrite AD !!!!
----
You probably all guessed that i'm not a fan of the "Devil's" screed !

But just to clear the confusion if you use Ditra matting , Mapelay or similar - you're not actually fixing cement based adhesives to the anhydrite - so the rules have changed.

PS if the screed was Topcem you only have to wait days not weeks !

Cliff
 
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bansko

TF
21
188
Brantys spot on, remove the laitance and check the moisture content, Thats a must. then prime thouroughly. both directions allowing to dry in between, one thing they do have going for them is they are flat which you dont get too often these days. Stick to brantys advice you wont have any problems.
 

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