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E

ethascar

Thanks for that colour republic.
To me a tile is a tile if you know what i mean.
We did not give them any impression we were doing them ourselves and i know what you are saying about them not knowing how they were going to be installed and infact they gave us the tilers card as they asked if we had a tiler for the job and the tiler who was going to be doing the job is worrying me now.
 
C

Colour Republic

While the tile shop is not responsible for the tilers work, the fact they gave you his card does mean they maybe should be told that some of the information he gave you you've found out to be incorrect.

From the brief outline you've given of the works there does seem to be a number of issues you need to be aware of as your job is not the simple, not least because you are bridging many different substrates on the floor, and in my opinion should be fitted by a professional in this instance. I understand you would now like to tackle this yourself and can get some guidance from this very site, there are plenty of threads that go into detail about each of you questions and I'm sure some will be answered here in this thread but If I was in your position I would ask a tiler to come out and see the job first hand and offer advice, don't mislead them into thinking you may employ them but be honest and say you would like some advice and are happy to pay them for their time. Some tilers will turn you down flat, others will be willing to help.:thumbsup:
 
A

Alan.P

Thanks for the info ethascar.

Not wanting to cast a shadow over the job but sounds to me that the prep is sorely lacking.

Hall.
Old floorboards should have been taken up, joists re-enforced with noggins and then ply wood to a minimum of 15mm 18 or above would be better, this is to take any deflection out of the floor, more than a fraction of movement can / will result in, grout and or tiles cracking and possibly the tiles lifting. The old tiles ideally should have been taken up and then any discrepancies could have been made up with self levelling compound, if the heights couldn't have been bought level that is.

Bathroom.
Floor preperation should have been the same as the hall, old floor boards removed, joists strengthened and boarded with 15mm wpb mimimum. Going by your original tile types as we've said before, the skim / plastered walls won't take it, so, you'll either have to rethink tiles or think about over boarding the walls with a backer board or plasterboard, depending on tiles.

En suite.

Same as the bathroom.

Wet room.

I would plug and screw the boards to the wall as well as the D & D I think someone mentioned tanking systems in an earlier post, deffinitely go for this option in a wet room. Once you have your floor down and it's cured etc, then we can guide you on your wet room prep, if that's what you would like.

Let us now what you decide about the preparation already done, and what if anything you plan on doing to it.

Sorry, but hope that helps.
 
E

ethascar

by reading/ advise i have now been given by you guys the tiler was not very helpful regarding the prep work (i did initially say i was going to rip up the old floor boards and redo it but he said 9mm ply would be fine).
I have phonedthe tile people up and they will take 1 type of the 700x250 tiles back as they are stored items but unfortunatly the ones for the en-suite were special order (lavender stripe) shame we never went for same in both rooms.
How easy would skim be to take off? Knowing my luck hard.
By the way alan the shadow is that big that you cast the whole of spalding has gone into darkness thought we had got an eclipse here for a while:lol:
Thanks for advice,ply has also been glued as well as screwed down.
 
E

ethascar

Hi guys
Thanks for all the advice you have all given me about this.
Unfortunatly the floor will have to stay as it is (floor boards under existing walls etc)
Going to be changing tiles for bathroom and re boarding en-suite)
For the floors and walls what adhesive would be best? I realise people have there own preferances.
The tiler was recommending 2 part flexible latex adhesive for the hall?
Standard flexible adhesive for bathrooms.
Standard adhesive for the concrete floor.

I have read and read about different adhesives and i am in a mind field now, how long do you get to work with with rapid set adhesive sounds scarry stuff for a novice wanting to have a go :yikes:?

Also guys i remember reading on here about underfloor heating needing to be turned on over a certain abount of time and gradually being turned up then down again (am i right or was i just dreaming this)
Thanks everyone again for all the help
 
Last edited by a moderator:
A

Alan.P

Sounds about right on the adhesive choices / types, with a rapid set, this weather, you might get a bucket life of between 20-30 mins, if you have no problem access wise with people wanting to walk onthe floors then go for a standard set, plenty of time so you can take your time :thumbsup:

Re the ufh, there was a great thread about it somewhere, I'll see if I can find it, but yes, basically that's it, what ufh were you installing again ? and where ?
 
E

ethascar

Thanks alan for the reply once again.
I could go with standard as could dictate when i do it and keep the family out of the way for a day or so.
Would the standard have to be flexable (obvious really) where is the best place to get it does anyone have a link to a web site? as there are so many differant types of adhesive out there.
The ufh is water and is only in the kitchen area as you say i can remember reading about it somewhere but cannot remember where the thread was
 

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