any thresholds between doorways needed?

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bluevin123

Hi,

Not seen this job yet,but have been asked to tile a small kitchen floor,running through the hallway and into the downstairs toilet.
He says its only a small 2 bed house.

He thinks the floors are tounge and groove. Would I have to ply that with 12mm ply or would I get away with just using a flexi addy and grout...I would think Id need to ply it, but would like to know how you would do it.

Also, could I run from the kitchen into the hallway and toilet all without thresholds and expansion joints as it does seem quite a small house.
Thanks.
Vinnie.:thumbsup:
 
Vinnie -Although we have been tiling for years now on WBP plywood it would seem that the new overboarding is a Tile Backer Board.
I for one have been using 6mm Hardie backer boards for a while now and they are excellent. Being waterproof there is no movement in the board /being easy to cut & lay - both provide the confidence you need to comple a professional job. Personally I would never tile direct to T&G floorboards and having put the backer boards down you should find no problem with fixing a seamless floor throughout your customers rooms. You should however try and get the fullest sheets on all the main walkways and have no joins that can transfer through to the T&G floorboards. Remember to still use your flexile fast set adhesive and flexible grout for tiling in a wooden situation.:thumbsup:
The backer boards unfortunately can cost approx 50% more than an equivalent plywood covering.:thumbsdown:

Timeless John.
 
Just to add to Johns post, and this is only my personal opinion, the floor needs to be solid for the backer boards to be properly effective, These boards don't add strength to the floor but they do give an excellent surface to tile on to.
 
Thanks John and Grumps, have used the 6mm backer board in the past, but not on the floor, that seems like a good idea,Ill just reflect the costs in the price I give him, so he shouldnt need any door thresholds then, as long as I keep them about 5mm from the wall and eachover?
Thanks a bunch.
Vin:thumbsup:
 
Hi vinny...

2 sheets of hardi backer from ctd are about £18 and cover an area of 2.7 mtrs ( board size is 1.5 x 0.9)

1 sheet of 12mm ply covers 2.88 mtrs and cost about the same for a good wbp...

The only additional cost with hardy is you need to use adhesive to stick it down covering voids etc and this IMO gives added strength as well....( no grumps no data for that just my opinion.🙂)..

Plus vinny you do not get the lateral streses with hardi like ply does...i too am like john,,i don't use ply anymore, only hardi..but as grumps says do check for loose boards and excessive deflection...

You will need to make sure it is floor boards or at least chipboard onto joists and not a floating floor...
 
4 sheets of no more ply plus mega adhesive cost 36 quid cover 2.8m2 and can be glued and screwed in about 10 mins so saving on labour costs no sawing away at plywood and screwing every 8 inches and no mixing flexi for the hardie to sit in which still has to be screwed every 8 inches NO MORE PLY everytime for me............Still got no shares tho grumps...lol:hurray::hurray:
 
4 sheets of no more ply plus mega adhesive cost 36 quid cover 2.8m2 and can be glued and screwed in about 10 mins so saving on labour costs no sawing away at plywood and screwing every 8 inches and no mixing flexi for the hardie to sit in which still has to be screwed every 8 inches NO MORE PLY everytime for me............Still got no shares tho grumps...lol:hurray::hurray:


Ouch!! expensive though...:smilewinkgrin:..you sure you have no shares..:lol:
 
lol it is expensive to buy but its so quick to lay what it costs in material you save on labour not a great money spinner dont get me wrong, we earn of the tiling not the prep. tho we do make a little....lol......gonna see how much i can make on advertising for NMP....:lol::lol:
 
Hi vinny...

2 sheets of hardi backer from ctd are about £18 and cover an area of 2.7 mtrs ( board size is 1.5 x 0.9)

1 sheet of 12mm ply covers 2.88 mtrs and cost about the same for a good wbp...

The only additional cost with hardy is you need to use adhesive to stick it down covering voids etc and this IMO gives added strength as well....( no grumps no data for that just my opinion.🙂)..

Plus vinny you do not get the lateral streses with hardi like ply does...i too am like john,,i don't use ply anymore, only hardi..but as grumps says do check for loose boards and excessive deflection...

You will need to make sure it is floor boards or at least chipboard onto joists and not a floating floor...
:grin:
 
I always used ply myself, until I tried hardiebacker, no going back to ply now, altho' it is expensive in TP, at about £15 a sheet ( that's the 250 one).
May even give smurfs NMP a bash one day:thumbsup:
 

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