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Discuss ATT: Joe Bloggs in the UK Tiling Forum area at TilersForums.com.

J

joe bloggs

The layout is something like this

joe-bloggs-albums-j-bloggs-ensuite-picture6402-bathroom-plan.jpg


but with a cranked shower bath. The West outside wall behind the bath 'tap' end to be used for the shower valves; The bath taps and filler will be mounted on the South side of the bath.



The corner with the bath in is this one
joe-bloggs-albums-j-bloggs-bathroom-picture5894-south-west-corner-tap-end-bath.jpg


and is block/lime plaster. you can see the H&C and electrics for the old power shower, the lime, the render, and at the bottom the exposed blocks behind the bath that were never plastered.


In the wall I'll fix this shower mixer,

joe-bloggs-albums-j-bloggs-bathroom-picture6403-shower-mixer.jpg


the H&C from below in 22mm, 22mm outlet to ceiling for overhead shower head, and an outlet for a shower wand on a riser rail, so the wall is quite busy.

There are different tile weight limits for different types of substrate...
I can see that, and thanks for the link WB, but don't see the relationship between skimming the board and tile weight, i.e. if skimming it makes it carry less weight why would I skim it?.

cheers,

Joe
 
J

joe bloggs

If I go the plasterboard route, and never having done dot and dab...how thick is the adhesive layer when its done? I need it thin enough so I can get the board to line up with the old render. I know It'll depend on how uneven the blockwork is but I may be able to 'adjust' any wayward blocks to a certain extent. If I had some board (12.5mm moisture resistant?) and adhesive here I'd experiment, but haven't.

cheers

joe
 
J

joe bloggs

I've got the plaster off now. putting a level against the render the distance from the block work varies from 22mm down to 13mm in one spot, but the render is a bit low there, so say 22mm down to 15mm. as the tiles are going on the existing render, like the old ones, that's the distance I've got to play with. Seems a bit marginal for the board to me , what d'you think?
 
J

joe bloggs

You could use a 9.5mm board on this occasion but use plenty of adhesive (dry wall stuff) because of the thickness of the board.
Damp the wall first before appling the dry wall adhesive

That sounds like the answer, I could use 9.5mm on the solid walls, sort of like big tiles, and if the adhesive is strategically and generously applied will allow subsequent chopping out for the plumbing. Probably use Wickes adhesive as their stuff always seems OK.
12.5mm on the stud walls as per last time? Would moisture resistant board be better all round?

That mixer looks similar to the one I have in my own shower
365, valve is 'Home of Ultra' from their 'Aspect' range.

Joe
 
C

Colour Republic

valve is 'Home of Ultra' from their 'Aspect' range.

Joe


Home of Ultra / Hudson Reed are great valves and also very good value for money but they don't like hard water, I myself fit a lot of this brand but have had some problems with them in hard water areas. What's your water like?
 
J

joe bloggs

All southern water is hard!You have to come up North to have soft water that you can drink, wash and do the dishes without adding a Fairy.:thumbsup:

actually the water here is soft, no fairies, or rather pixies required. I think it's the East-Midlands to the South/South-East of England that has to put up with the hard stuff. Probably a result of us being on proper rock forged in the centre of the earth rather than all that crumbly pseudo rock made from mashed sea shells.

joe
 

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ATT: Joe Bloggs
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Which tile adhesive brand did you use most this year?

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  • Other (any other brand not listed)

    Votes: 13 11.9%
  • Nicobond

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    Votes: 3 2.8%
  • Kelmore

    Votes: 1 0.9%

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