Bath shorter than room width

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Ideally you want the tiles sitting over the bath not slipped behind so....

Depending on how far you are willing to go i'd dot and dab plasterboard on to one wall making the whole room smaller 30mm shorter (assuming there are no doors on that wall)

or screw 20mm battens and plasterboard an area just behind the bath (so the boxing goes to the ceiling as it were)

or cut and shut the bath (Herbie style):smilewinkgrin:
 
Ideally you want the tiles sitting over the bath not slipped behind so....

Depending on how far you are willing to go i'd dot and dab plasterboard on to one wall making the whole room smaller 30mm shorter (assuming there are no doors on that wall)

or screw 20mm battens and plasterboard an area just behind the bath (so the boxing goes to the ceiling as it were)

or cut and shut the bath (Herbie style):smilewinkgrin:



likewise
 
Im with Beanz, the window trim either a 'd' moulding or cloaking profile would be better. It can be siliconed and wiped clean and it wont break loose like some small cuts of tiles can if they are not laid properly.
 
Im with Beanz, the window trim either a 'd' moulding or cloaking profile would be better. It can be siliconed and wiped clean and it wont break loose like some small cuts of tiles can if they are not laid properly.


Yuk ! I think that would always look like a quick fix bodge.
 
To fit bath i alweys use legs just to level it and Aerated autoclaved concrete (usually wide 6 cm) below around and then foam to make acustic isolation. You can use wider ones (8 cm) to put bath on 5 cm wide and 3 cm will be for this gap. It is hard to explain me this in english if you want i can make draw and sent here.
 
To fit bath i alweys use legs just to level it and Aerated autoclaved concrete (usually wide 6 cm) below around and then foam to make acustic isolation. You can use wider ones (8 cm) to put bath on 5 cm wide and 3 cm will be for this gap. It is hard to explain me this in english if you want i can make draw and sent here.


Please do..:thumbsup:
 
Reboard if possible :thumbsup:
 
[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x85K3Ps5W24[/ame]

i put some isolation foam below bath too. What i meant before, in place where is 3cm gap you can use 3cm wider material and then strips tile and silicon around.
 
thanks everybody for the ideas. a nice selection to have thought about.

altering the wall is not a possibility. i am a builder so i know all about the walls the mistake was in trusting B&Cr4p.

i know without seeing it it is always hard to know the situation fully but the best way i can explain it is: -

rectangle room. no spare space what so ever because i have had to cram bath to sink to toilet to get an 800/800 cubical in.

all walls are already completely finished and floor fully tiled front to back side to side. all plasterboard to be tiled is fully tanked and all the remaining plasterboard is skimmed. the spot lights are in and equally divided between the space available. shower tray installed & the toilet stack has been altered outside to the new position. the only way all of this was possible was to move the bath to the end under the window which just gave them enough room to get a towel rail in with the door just opening past it.

having been there all afternoon and staring at it i have come up with the only solution i can see feasible for the current situation i have. i know this is NOT ideal and i really did not want to do it but: -

tile the walls to the floor from the window sill height.
2 x 8mm tiles + 2 x adhesive = 26-28mm. gap is 30mm
fit the bath into the tiles section and then have 2-4mm to Silicon the edges.

not what i wanted to do but it is fully protected from slight leaks. it is possible to remove the Silicon and replace it when it does finally change colour and more than anything, it answers my problem without costing me time or money by damaging all of the work i have already done.

now unless there is any major reason why any of you say i cannot do this, i will do so tomorrow. i appreciate it is not ideal.
 

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