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Discuss Batons, levels, trackers in the Australia Tiling Forum area at TilersForums.com.
Cut the end off you spirit level....dohhhI use lengths of 12mm ply sliced up at local woodyard into 2" strips, somethings always puzzled me about using a level or metal straight edges, what do you do when the wall doesn't fit the exact size of the level (as in never) its easy enough to cut a batton to fit..
Of course I have a lot to learn, I’ve just started. The small tile on the right was unavoidable. How else could that have been done? And yes there are lipages but I advised the customers they needed a plasterer to skim those walls but they didn’t want to pay to get that done. And yup, in some places there are slight lipages on the walls I boarded. I’m learning and finding my way. When I looked at it after the fact I see everything that could have been done better. I’m not blind to the things I need to learn. But after doing that I have to at some point come away from it objectively and realise it’s my 2nd job and considering this it’s not entirely bad. It’s in no way perfection of course. But perfection doesn’t come immediately. Not in anything. And anyone who says they were perfection when they started out is a liar.From a distance it looks reasonable, James but when you look at the windows, the trim and some of the lips, grout joints not lining up etc you soon realise that you have a lot to learn as to what would be considered acceptable.
You need to get things spot on in this game.
The large window reveal, small tile on the right. Did you really look at that after fixing and thing that was OK? You need to maintain your grout joints everywhere. No lips.
If you are charging as a professional tiler then the customer should expect a first class job, no lips, set out right and no blaming other trades as to a less than perfect finish. If a wall is bumpy or squint then it’s up to the tiler to sort or inform customer to get sorted before carrying on. Maybe would be better to team up with an experienced professional tiler to gain essential experience.Of course I have a lot to learn, I’ve just started. The small tile on the right was unavoidable. How else could that have been done? And yes there are lipages but I advised the customers they needed a plasterer to skim those walls but they didn’t want to pay to get that done. And yup, in some places there are slight lipages on the walls I boarded. I’m learning and finding my way. When I looked at it after the fact I see everything that could have been done better. I’m not blind to the things I need to learn. But after doing that I have to at some point come away from it objectively and realise it’s my 2nd job and considering this it’s not entirely bad. It’s in no way perfection of course. But perfection doesn’t come immediately. Not in anything. And anyone who says they were perfection when they started out is a liar.
So all in all, to a seasoned pro it may be imperfect, but I’ll get there.
Yep always. Makes absolutely no difference if the floor or the walls are cut in first.Not always though surely? i'm doing a hexagon mosaic floor at the moment and I certainly won't put the bottom course in before the floor.
If you are charging as a professional tiler then the customer should expect a first class job, no lips, set out right and no blaming other trades as to a less than perfect finish. If a wall is bumpy or squint then it’s up to the tiler to sort or inform customer to get sorted before carrying on. Maybe would be better to team up with an experienced professional tiler to gain essential experience.
Not always though surely? i'm doing a hexagon mosaic floor at the moment and I certainly won't put the bottom course in before the floor.
I'll only do that if I'm lining up floor joints with the walls. Prefer not to work on top of a finished floor if I don't need toMust admit I’ve not used batons in years. I tile floor first then cut my first row in.
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