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From a distance it looks reasonable, James but when you look at the windows, the trim and some of the lips, grout joints not lining up etc you soon realise that you have a lot to learn as to what would be considered acceptable.

You need to get things spot on in this game.

The large window reveal, small tile on the right. Did you really look at that after fixing and thing that was OK? You need to maintain your grout joints everywhere. No lips.
Of course I have a lot to learn, I’ve just started. The small tile on the right was unavoidable. How else could that have been done? And yes there are lipages but I advised the customers they needed a plasterer to skim those walls but they didn’t want to pay to get that done. And yup, in some places there are slight lipages on the walls I boarded. I’m learning and finding my way. When I looked at it after the fact I see everything that could have been done better. I’m not blind to the things I need to learn. But after doing that I have to at some point come away from it objectively and realise it’s my 2nd job and considering this it’s not entirely bad. It’s in no way perfection of course. But perfection doesn’t come immediately. Not in anything. And anyone who says they were perfection when they started out is a liar.

So all in all, to a seasoned pro it may be imperfect, but I’ll get there.
 
It’s not the fact that it is a small cut necessarily, it’s sticking out like a sore thumb. You can’t honestly say that is the best you could do.

Honestly, I’m not a Tiler myself but I started doing tiling jobs not far off 30 years ago as a Plumbers apprentice and hand on heart, I know I didnt walk away from a job looking like that.

I did however tile directly onto plasterboard in showers, with ready mixed so I was in no way perfect.

You need to up your game a bit, because you can’t leave stuff like that. Just being honest.
 
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Not sure if you are doing the plumbing yourself but looking at those pushfit elbows under the bath, you need to make sure you have cleaned all the paint off so the o ring seals on the copper and not the paint. Won’t end well otherwise.
 
Get yourself some Foam board for the boxing in and twist the customers arm to get it tiled in.

98E41DFA-6433-4711-BC43-B9DC3FCA96E4.jpeg
 
Of course I have a lot to learn, I’ve just started. The small tile on the right was unavoidable. How else could that have been done? And yes there are lipages but I advised the customers they needed a plasterer to skim those walls but they didn’t want to pay to get that done. And yup, in some places there are slight lipages on the walls I boarded. I’m learning and finding my way. When I looked at it after the fact I see everything that could have been done better. I’m not blind to the things I need to learn. But after doing that I have to at some point come away from it objectively and realise it’s my 2nd job and considering this it’s not entirely bad. It’s in no way perfection of course. But perfection doesn’t come immediately. Not in anything. And anyone who says they were perfection when they started out is a liar.

So all in all, to a seasoned pro it may be imperfect, but I’ll get there.
If you are charging as a professional tiler then the customer should expect a first class job, no lips, set out right and no blaming other trades as to a less than perfect finish. If a wall is bumpy or squint then it’s up to the tiler to sort or inform customer to get sorted before carrying on. Maybe would be better to team up with an experienced professional tiler to gain essential experience.
 
I don’t see the lack of having a plasterer as a valid excuse. If the window sill or window reveal in general isn’t flat or level then you either get it flat and level before tiling or you tile the window sill to the highest point in the sill and then trowel some adhesive in and leave to set.

Same with the right hand side. Get your hammer and bolster and knock the plaster/S&C render off and make good. It’s part of the job.

You don’t start tiling until the walls are ready and you can achieve the right finish.
 

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