Ceramic floor tiles and plywood problem

[CJ]

How was the original ply fitted? Was it just screwed down?

The way I see it.......it would be quicker to just lift the lot up, and then using a flexible adhesive, (which would fill any nicks left by screw removal) lay 6mm hardi backer, screwed as well. Or you could spend hours scraping of hardened adhesive, and you don't really want to use a SDS drill to vibrate all and sundry.

If my job........that's how I would do approach this.

 

[CJ]

:yikes: Duplicate post.

 

[widler]

Thanks for getting back and for also letting me know about the 6mm hardie backer.

I will consider the option of removing the existing plywood.

The reason I asked if the 6mm plywood could be left, without removing was because it would take alot of extra work and time to get the adhesive out of the screw heads holding the plywood down.

I also did not want to remove the plywood more aggressively and then damage the chipboard flooring.

I was also abit concerned that if I remove all the screws holding down the plywood, then there would be alot of holes in the chipboard flooring from the screws.

In your opinion, if I was to lay the new 15mm plywood or 6mm hardie backer on the existing 6mm plywood glued and screwed, would that be OK?

Just for reference, the house was built in 1999.

Many thanks

This is what he said,he was worried about taking the addy out of the screw heads,taking all the screws out,damaging the chipboard ect ect.
I said if it's solid why take it up,I wouldn't ,if height ain't a issue,why risk damaging the main substrate,but ****,I ain't with the few on here,I'm going against the grain man,I'm a rebel.
Thread starter,don't listen to me,I even cut my own plinths down,I'm a outcast,a rebel man

 

[AliGage]

So we're saying this floor hasn't failed? We are talking about removing tiles etc im guessing not.

Im sort of inclined to agree with Widler. Sounding like im the only one. But IF the floor is deflection free after removing tiles and in reasonable order then id clean up and prime the 6mm ply putting in more 25mm screws to ensure its well fixed to the chipboard. Then i would glue and screw hardie backer over the top. Then tile.

6mm ply is pish for an overlay. But fixing hbb over ply is more preferable than chipboard anyway.

 

[Speedoman]

Thank you all for getting back and helping me!

I am almost certain the 6mm plywood was screwed and not glued.

When I was using a hammer and chisel to remove a few tiles as mentioned in the post above, there was alot of vibration and a paint crack occured between the plasterboard ceiling and coving in the living room, so I agree if using an SDS chisel then the vibration and possible damage will be alot worse.

When I did use a chisel and hammer it did rip the plywood up abit. That maybe because I was holding the chisel at the wrong angle, cannot say for sure.

But thinking about it now, my feeling is that the 6mm plywood would again be ripped up alittle. Also the vibration caused by the chiselling is putting me off.

So if I used a crow bar to lift up the plywood and tiles, that would reduce any vibration.

The original screw holes in the chipboard flooring I am guessing would of got alot bigger now from the removal of the plywood.

If I then used a flexible adhesive as suggested, I could use BAL single part fastflex with a filler knife or trowel to fill the holes.

This would then make the floor ready for the cement board or plywood.

I am happy to do that, just hoping the chipboard flooring is not going to be damaged beyond use.

Is BAL single part fastflex OK to use to fill the holes in the chipboard flooring?

The new screws will make a new thread in the tile adhesive, will that be OK and strong?

How does this all sound?

Also as you can see in one of the posts above, I have fitted hardie backer boards to walls but I have not read fitting instructions for the hardie backer floor boards.

I know the floor boards are thinner then the wall boards which helps when cutting.

But I wanted to ask what type of countersink bits do you use. I was wearing out my countersink bits so quickly on the hardie backer boards it became a real struggle to countersink each hole.

Thanks again for all the great help!!

 

[Andy Allen]

So we're saying this floor hasn't failed? We are talking about removing tiles etc im guessing not.

Im sort of inclined to agree with Widler. Sounding like im the only one. But IF the floor is deflection free after removing tiles and in reasonable order then id clean up and prime the 6mm ply putting in more 25mm screws to ensure its well fixed to the chipboard. Then i would glue and screw hardie backer over the top. Then tile.

6mm ply is pish for an overlay. But fixing hbb over ply is more preferable than chipboard anyway.

bloody traitor......:lol:

 

[AliGage]

Lol

 

[widler]

So we're saying this floor hasn't failed? We are talking about removing tiles etc im guessing not.

Im sort of inclined to agree with Widler. Sounding like im the only one. But IF the floor is deflection free after removing tiles and in reasonable order then id clean up and prime the 6mm ply putting in more 25mm screws to ensure its well fixed to the chipboard. Then i would glue and screw hardie backer over the top. Then tile.

6mm ply is pish for an overlay. But fixing hbb over ply is more preferable than chipboard anyway.

You rebel you

 

[CJ]

If you can get a driver bit into as many screw heads as possible, that would cut down possible damage to chipboard......as for filling holes/damage........you could use fastflex......but if just a little damage, then you could just use decorators caulk or similar.

Then just use a flexible adhesive (fast flex would be belt & braces, but chuffing expensive) As for screwing/countersinking, 6mm hardi is usually ok, so should countersink in one hit.

Then use the same adhesive for tiling. Also flexi grout.....or better still, wide joint grout with flex additive (sold separately)

That's your job for the weekend sorted.

 

[Speedoman]

If you can get a driver bit into as many screw heads as possible, that would cut down possible damage to chipboard......as for filling holes/damage........you could use fastflex......but if just a little damage, then you could just use decorators caulk or similar.

Then just use a flexible adhesive (fast flex would be belt & braces, but chuffing expensive) As for screwing/countersinking, 6mm hardi is usually ok, so should countersink in one hit.

Then use the same adhesive for tiling. Also flexi grout.....or better still, wide joint grout with flex additive (sold separately)

That's your job for the weekend sorted.

Thanks very much CJ for the info!

I started removing the plywood and tiles and I will finish removing them on Saturday.

The bathroom installer fitted the plywood with short screws and the plywood is not glued to the chipboard flooring, so that is helping to lift the plywood off easier with a crow bar.

Thanks again for the help!

 

[podge42]

Personally I'd remove the 6mm ply and replace with 6mm Hardie Backer glued and screwed....

What he said

 

[Dan]

Just bumping some of the older popular (sometimes not so popular) threads. Probably wont be current discussion these days but I just need to do it. So just ignore the thread if it's not current for you.