Ceramic floor tiles and plywood problem

No no no no no! Please don't go down that route. Removing the existing thin ply and replacing that with backer board is the way to go
 
The hardi would simply go on top of the 15 mm ply once layed... The point I was making is that tiling straight to ply can cause tiles to come loose due to expansion in the wood so you would be better spending a day removing the ply and prepping for hardi to go down then waste money on extra ply for no reason. And of the original ply hasn't been glued but just screwed you may be in for a shock if you just board over the 6mm hard I... You will also have no height issues when it come to fitting a door strip as you can simply follow what the original tiler had done.
 
Secure the subfloor to minimal deflection.

Glue and screw 6mm hardie backer board to said chipboard floor.

Tile.

Jobs a goodn
 
Thank you everyone!

Not trying to cut corners, I am just checking out my options.

The existing 6mm plywood is not glued to the chipboard flooring only screwed.

The screw heads I assume are all counter sunk into the plywood.

What is the easiest way please to remove the adhesive from hundreds of screw heads without damaging the screw heads, so I can remove the screws?

With the holes left in the chipboard from the screws, I can then use wider screws so they make a new thread in the existing screw holes.
 
Don't worry about the screwholes mate just be sure to glue and a screw the hard I backer boards down (glue being adhesive). Try pulling it up more point wasting time finding each screw will take ages 6mm ply will come rite up
 
Personally I'd use a crow bar lifting the ply but keep pressure on the joist areas because the chipboard may break or get damaged, the screws can be pulled using a claw hammer.
 
If the tiles have been solid for 15 years, why risk damaging the subfloor ?
Clean the ply,glue and screw hardi with screws which go into the original floor and tile.
If heights not a issue why bother with the extra work ?
 

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