Constructing a raised deck / balcony - advice please

[Diggy]

Jeepers , you guys seem to be over complicating matters imho. Blockwork , concrete sub , tiles , solid as a rock.
I stand by my earlier post that all the ditra / ply / brick pillars would be more expensive , its roughly 8m² so thats 80 quid in ditra or fastflex for starters.

Anyway not trying to get into an arguement :0) .

Imho ply outside , in the sun is mucho likely to warp and Ditra or Fastflex wouldnt cover you for that.

All imho of course.

Diggy

 

[Dan]

Totally makes sense.

 

[Old Mod]

Anyway not trying to get into an arguement :0) .

Don't do arguments on here anymore! 😀

 

[Ajax123]

Jeepers , you guys seem to be over complicating matters imho. Blockwork , concrete sub , tiles , solid as a rock.
I stand by my earlier post that all the ditra / ply / brick pillars would be more expensive , its roughly 8m² so thats 80 quid in ditra or fastflex for starters.

Anyway not trying to get into an arguement :0) .

Imho ply outside , in the sun is mucho likely to warp and Ditra or Fastflex wouldnt cover you for that.

All imho of course.

Diggy

Yup. Proper outdoor construction. Beam and block maybe 20quid a square meter.

 

[completehandy]

Yup. Proper outdoor construction. Beam and block maybe 20quid a square meter.

I did think about block & beam but remembering there will be no supporting walls, only two columns plus the existing house wall I can't really see how they could be supported. In addition I need to be able to build this myself which is why the relatively light weight of timber beams, ply etc. was my preferred solution.

Ditra Drain was actually the recommended solution rather than Ditra Matting but I was a little concerned over costs. I was hoping to use a Ditra type mat rather than actual Dirta to help keep the costs down.

On Monday I'll have a word with both BAL & Mappi to see what they think about using either Fastflex or Mapelastic.

John.

 

[WetSaw]

If you want to keep costs down then block and beam will do that. A few pillars to support the main beams ( 2 ×1.6m are easy to move) then the other beams on top. 2.4m are a bit lumpy on your own ( I'm not a big guy but can move 3m by myself with the right techniques!) but far from impossible

 

[Ajax123]

So let me get this straight. You are looking at a wall plate on the house wall presumably the full length if the deck, and the a column at either front corner. Is that right. I.e no supporting frame?? Or am I reading it wrong. No frame will make it a bit trampolinish.... I'm sure you've thought of that and I am just reading it wrong....

 

[completehandy]

So let me get this straight. You are looking at a wall plate on the house wall presumably the full length if the deck, and the a column at either front corner. Is that right. I.e no supporting frame?? Or am I reading it wrong. No frame will make it a bit trampolinish.... I'm sure you've thought of that and I am just reading it wrong....

Alan,

Essentially you're correct in that there would be a wall plate and two pillars to support the corners.

Between the pillars would be a front beam of something like two pieces of 245 x 44 bolted together. From the wall plate out to this beam would be 170 x 45 joists at 400 centres on top of which goes the flooring. This is all based on a Timber Decking Association code of practice the main variation being that their designs are intended to support timber decking whereas I really wanted to avoid this. If I can't come up with anything else I may look at composite decking which would resolve the ongoing maintenance issues but would not give me the dry storage area below and would probably be more expensive than ply and tiles.

 

[Ajax123]

Alan,

Essentially you're correct in that there would be a wall plate and two pillars to support the corners.

Between the pillars would be a front beam of something like two pieces of 245 x 44 bolted together. From the wall plate out to this beam would be 170 x 45 joists at 400 centres on top of which goes the flooring. This is all based on a Timber Decking Association code of practice the main variation being that their designs are intended to support timber decking whereas I really wanted to avoid this. If I can't come up with anything else I may look at composite decking which would resolve the ongoing maintenance issues but would not give me the dry storage area below and would probably be more expensive than ply and tiles.

Phew.... I still think though that there will be too much movement for tiles. Good luck with it though.