Diy bathroom floor tile

[STEvieXE]

Hey guys, I made a hello thread and updated it with a bit of background. Basically I'm a complete novice (diy course at local tech) who wants to tile my bathroom floor and splashbacks but wants to try my best to do it the best way I can. Im a keen diy er and have an interest to learn to be able to tile my own mini projects.

Could anyone tell me the best way to upload photos here from my iPhone? Not so hot with that kinda thing!

Anyways back to the bathroom, I have the room stripped aside from the sink so far, bath is still in but hoping not too have to remove it and tile under the plastic panel, the floor was previously vinyl and I think its chipboard approx 20 mm thick but I'll will confirm this.

My first question is the vinyl has left a sticky residue on the chipboard, I'm assuming the floor will need over boarded from reading on here but do I need to remove this sticky residue and if so what is my best way of doing this?

As the floor will need over boarded and I want to tile below my bath panel slightly do I need to overboard just the areas I'm tiling or will I need to remove the bath and overboard the entire room?

The bathroom is small, I havent measured it precisely but I'd estimate roughly 3/4 square metres.

Thanks in advance, Stevie

 

[STEvieXE]

Few questions I'd like to ask in hindsight

1 - I left the five mm gap around the edge as I read on here, does the adhesive have to be 5 mm from edge too or can it be up to the wall?

2 - I used panabond acrylic primer, it said on the bottle to tile while tacky so I did this! Are all SBR like this? I couldn't find much on the net about this primer, I bought it in a local tile supplier shop

3- did I do my pipe cut outs correctly? I didn't screw them because on the Hardie info no screws close to corners etc I was scared in case I'd break them so I used the tape n skimmed over them. Is this suitable with having a tiling joint directly above? I read about to keep Hardie joints not over subfloor joints so does this apply with Hardie cuts/tile cuts?


I skimmed my tape joints before tiling as I wanted to make sure I had them skimmed properly n when I came to tile over the top I could focus on that rather than skimmed tape joints n fitting tiles together. In places I left this too high when it came to tiling sadly and had to sand some Adhesive down so learned too go very light over the tape. I read wipe Hardie with damp sponge n tile over, no need to re prime, is this the case over the hardened adhesive over the tape joints? Or should they have been primed?

Comments and criticism's welcomed and appreciated

 

[STEvieXE]

Shameless bump so I can find this thread easier on mobile to upload pics!

 

[Dan]

It's the top one in the DIY forum lol
And plastered in your alerts.

 

[STEvieXE]

 

[STEvieXE]

 

[STEvieXE]

 

[STEvieXE]

Sorry about double pics etc!

I learned loads doing this, its not perfect but I'm very happy with it and could not have done it without this sites help

 

[Dan]

Do you have a spacer between your tile trim and tile? I wouldn't do that. I'd just butt the trim up to the tile and grout the little lip that ends up there.

 

[STEvieXE]

Yes I did the teacher at the college taught us to do that! I'll know for again not too!

 

[Dan]

I'd like to take a look at a close up of that. He might be right it might look best. I've never done it like that, that's all!

 

[J Sid]

Dan, I've always done it that way on the few times I use trim. You need a gap to fill and hold the grout, plus looks alot better, I think.

 

[STEvieXE]

I'll take some close ups tomorrow for you

 

[Dan]

Dan, I've always done it that way on the few times I use trim. You need a gap to fill and hold the grout, plus looks alot better, I think.

I don't think I can recall ever seeing it done that way. Must be honest!

Makes some sense really.

I used to teach tiling too. Admitingly not at national recognised grade level. But there are tilers making more money right now than I do and some are members of this forum.

And I'd always said butt the trim up and grout the small ridge but don't use spacers.

Thinking about it, around an external corner (window say) surely that wouldn't work? You'd end up with a weak point with a grout line either side of it?

 

[J Sid]

Your way always cracks over time, just not enough room to hold such a small amount of grout. What you sticking to? Glaze and plastic?
Others may say different or have never given it any thought.

 

[Dan]

I suppose it makes sense but the plastic flexes more than the grout I'd imagine. And that won't crack.

On an external corner with 2mm grout either side of it, I can imagine a lot of failures as if assume (might be wrong) you've created a really weak corner and if knocked it's just going to let the grout squish around and maybe fall out?

I've not been called back. That's for sure. I had the same phone number for about 12 years up until a few months ago too.