DIY Tiler - 90 sq m of large format porcelaine tiling making me nervous!

[DHTiling]

Random bond can be easier and more forgiving... Is there a slow set toppfix..? not sure as i do not use them.

 

[PJPro]

Random bond can be easier and more forgiving... Is there a slow set toppfix..? not sure as i do not use them.

Isn't the BAL Single Part Flexible a slow set?

 

[DHTiling]

It is yes.. good adhesive..

 

[doug boardley]

Brick bond is fine with pan flat walls and zero bowing within your tiles. It can look better with certain tiles (imo) but the trade off is speed of fixing,large format tiles in particular, irrepective of name and "quality" are prone to bowing and thus leads to shadowing and lippage if fixed brick bond.

 

[PJPro]

Brendon (Topps) reckons the tiles have very little bowing due to their being relatively wide eg 600x400mm. He would expect more bowing with a 600x300mm. That said, I think this job is going to be difficult enough without further complication. I'll run grid bond past my wife and see what she says.

I've been reading the product information on the BAL SPF. Hmm. Looks like I'm going to need some BAL APD to seal the plasterboard.....but nothing on the floor on the No More Ply (the Project Manager is going for No More Ply over the Hardibacker).

 

[White Room]

Brendon (Topps) reckons the tiles have very little bowing due to their being relatively wide eg 600x400mm. He would expect more bowing with a 600x300mm. That said, I think this job is going to be difficult enough without further complication. I'll run grid bond past my wife and see what she says.

I've been reading the product information on the BAL SPF. Hmm. Looks like I'm going to need some BAL APD to seal the plasterboard.....but nothing on the floor on the No More Ply (the Project Manager is going for No More Ply over the Hardibacker).

There both the same just different ways of fixing

 

[PJPro]

The delivery company for Topps rang this morning to confirm they would be delivering on Monday not today. :-(

I'm off to a company called Atlas Ceramics tomorrow to see if I can buy some tanking for the walls around the shower. I'm assuming I don't need any under the shower tray itself.

I've noticed on a few threads the use of Dural matting. Should I be considering using this stuff on top of my No More Ply? Seems damned expensive.

 

[Martyn Leeds]

re: rapid set v slow set.

I'd get a mix of both types. That way you can start-off with slow, it will enable you to do a bigger mix in your bucket and if you need to make any adjustments when laying it will be easier.

Then when you get the hang of it you can use the rapid when you're cruising, and on any areas that need it to go off quicker.

 

[Alan.P]

i just had a moment of clarity, strange for this late of a Friday, did you post that you were going from wood to concrete ? have we covered the points on wooden floors, and prep etc, sorry if we have, been quiet a thread.

 

[PJPro]

i just had a moment of clarity, strange for this late of a Friday, did you post that you were going from wood to concrete ? have we covered the points on wooden floors, and prep etc, sorry if we have, been quiet a thread.

The upstairs bathroom will be moisture resistant chipboard topped with No More Ply on 400mm centred joists. Downstairs is a concrete floor, covered with a bed of insulation (75mm) containing wet underfloor heating and topped with screed (75mm). There will be no transition between substrate materials. All walls will be dot and dab plasterboard.

I'm not sure we got into the details of floor prep. There are one or two outstanding questions in my mind e.g. the use of Dural matting.