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Personally, i would always use hardi now.. whether onto the chipboard or the ply.. much more stable to tile too..
 
Interesting. I thought there was a move away from ply hence hardybacker, no more ply, etc

Ahh now we enter differing methods. i always overboard with backerboards.

I would do away with the Chipboard and us ply and overlay with backerboard if it were my house. Far more stable.
 
Ahh now we enter differing methods. i always overboard with backerboards.

I would do away with the Chipboard and us ply and overlay with backerboard if it were my house. Far more stable.
Hmm. Unfortunately, your good advice has come too late. Perhaps I should have joined this forum earlier? My bad.
 
Can it handle a 600x400mm tile? I need something with a nice, large, supportive top ( if it's anything like a table saw).

If your doing right angle cuts, do a wet cut into the right angle then dry cut, that where a good dry cutter comes into there own.
 
It's been a long day so I need to put my head down! I'm not used to physical work.

Thanks very much everyone for your help and advice and will be back on tomorrow to let you know what I've bought.
 
Don't forget PJ to post pics of the work as you go so the guys can give advice, just think you nearly PVA'd the walls so it was a good thing you came on here.

PVA is for plasterers and has no place in the tiling world.
 
I was intending to buy a cutter. Looks like the Rubi TX-700-N is the one to go for? How does the TX-700 (no N) differ to the TX-700-N? Is the N worth the extra?

I'm gonna have to buy the cutter tomorrow at the lastest, along with the (10mm) notched trowel, grout trowel, knee pads, etc, etc, etc.
imo the "N" isn't worth the extra, it just has a longer guide rail that can get in the way:thumbsup:
 

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DIY Tiler - 90 sq m of large format porcelaine tiling making me nervous!
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