Dot and dabbing again!

[GazTech]

Nice one tiler...gr8 post....Gaz

 

[White Room]

If I was using spf for sticking hardie boards to the wall I would still put a few fixing into the wall as a bit of support IMO.

 

[bj F]

Do not use rapid it is not suitable use plasterboard adhesive.

 

[DHTiling]

Do not use rapid it is not suitable use plasterboard adhesive.

So you would use a gypsum adhesive on a cement based backer board ....?..

 

[tiler burden]

hi mate

use what dave says, nothing else..

1, cut all you boards first ready to fix
2. mix you addy in a bucket, it must be thick enough to hang on to your trowel when turned upside down.
3. dab on the wall every 12 in as you say, so if its a 8x4 board you want 5 along the top and 9 up the side and in corresponding lines vertically.
4. use a trowel or the rear of a bucket trowel to slap the dabs on, they need to be around 25mm thick minand the boards will press in about 12.5mm allowing for any cables to go down the back etc.
5. tap the board with a 6ft straight edge/level at either side, then when you have fixed 2 boards side by side, put your straight edge across the boards horizontally, to ensure they dont dip in , in the middle. do this till you reach the end of the wall. you can put a square in the corners aswell to make sure everything is spot on
6. keep the boards off the floor by place 2 off cuts of plaster boards under the 8x4 or 6x3 boards (stops water penetration/damp)
7. finally, ensure there is a full dab of adhesive around all sockets and switches to ensure pressure testing.
8, finally finally...if the walls are really old and dusty, brush down and wet, or even seal with water and pva at around 4to1 ratio.
if its newish block/brick work , then just get em up


hope this helps

ed

 

[tiler burden]

i wrote the above post back in february for tysfoot.

use only drywall adhesive for dotting and dabbing plasterboards, ;0)

 

[Varley]

hi mate

use what dave says, nothing else..

1, cut all you boards first ready to fix
2. mix you addy in a bucket, it must be thick enough to hang on to your trowel when turned upside down.
3. dab on the wall every 12 in as you say, so if its a 8x4 board you want 5 along the top and 9 up the side and in corresponding lines vertically.
4. use a trowel or the rear of a bucket trowel to slap the dabs on, they need to be around 25mm thick minand the boards will press in about 12.5mm allowing for any cables to go down the back etc.
5. tap the board with a 6ft straight edge/level at either side, then when you have fixed 2 boards side by side, put your straight edge across the boards horizontally, to ensure they dont dip in , in the middle. do this till you reach the end of the wall. you can put a square in the corners aswell to make sure everything is spot on
6. keep the boards off the floor by place 2 off cuts of plaster boards under the 8x4 or 6x3 boards (stops water penetration/damp)
7. finally, ensure there is a full dab of adhesive around all sockets and switches to ensure pressure testing.
8, finally finally...if the walls are really old and dusty, brush down and wet, or even seal with water and pva at around 4to1 ratio.
if its newish block/brick work , then just get em up


hope this helps

ed

Great post Tiler Burden, thanks for this cool little tutorial

 

[Woody123]

Some very useful post's in there fellas, thanks for sharing all our knowledge.
yet again it has proved invaluable. If it wasn't for all the knowledge on here i probably would even attempt to do something i have never tried before but when you ask and do a little research then it doesn't seem so scary.
Cheers again

Chris

 

[Woody123]

Tiler,

I have just read that info that you put up and it says that surface to be dot and dabbed should be sound and flat. the surface i am d and d is a rough gray surface that is on top of breeze block is that ok as long as i prime? And also i am re-boarding the window reveals as they are badly damaged with big chunks of plaster out of them is that still ok were talking maybe an inch and a half chunks at the side of the window

 

[tiler burden]

hi woody,
not sure if you are directing that question at me or wetdec bit i'll answer it anyway.

you say that the wall is breezeblock covered in a rough grey surface. this rough grey surface is likely to be 'hardwall'. hardwall is a high suction backing coat to be used on breezeblock. it has a higher thermal value than sand and cement and it looks a little bit like carlie bonding, so you will easily be able to recognize it next to sand and cement.

so, if it is hardwall, then dont prime it!!!!!, just give it a wet down will a water brush or a roller or sprayer etc. and then apply your dabs and start boarding.

if by some chance the wall is coated in carlite bonding, then just do the same. wet down and apply. carlite bonding has little chipping of vermiculite in it, so it is easy to determine the differenc between it and hardwall. just to add, DONT use carlite bonding on breezeblock. it is a LOW suction backing coat and it should be used on surfaces such as skimmed walls, concrete and dense brick work such as engineering bricks.

as for the window reveals, yes it ok to go on thick. to give it a tiling term, i always 'solid bed' the reveals. in other words i dont dab them on, slap on drywall adhesive all the way down the plaster board or wall and then set them on solid.

hope this helps, if not ask away

ed