Floor Tiling On Concrete - Several Questions About Floor Prep and Laying Page: 2

[Flintstone]

If it's perfectly level with no dips, why are we having this conversation?

 

[WetSaw]

But it's difficult to assess when it's the people giving the advice who are clearly not following it themselves - as evidenced by the photos on their websites. The answer to all questions cannot be "put a self-leveling compound down". I've checked my floor with a spirit level - it is perfectly level. Putting a self-leveling compound down introduces an unnecessary step that could fail.

First of all you had 1-2mm thick patches of old adhesive on the floor then a few posts ago some imperceivable dips, if now you're happy that it's perfectly flat then crack on with the tiling.

 

[EdMac]

Because there are still 2 questions unanswered:

1. There is a row of engineering bricks across the middle of the floor - where a wall used to exist. Engineering bricks have cavities in them. What is the best way to fill these cavities before tiling over?

2. What is the best way to set up the transitions between rooms now so that in future when I change the floors in other rooms I can insert the strips between tile and wooden floors (which are currently carpet).

Thanks.

 

[Boggs]

A rapid repair mortar to fill in the voids in the bricks, or mix a bag of self levelling and pour in.


One of these for tile to carpet so it can be swapped when changing over to wood.

 

[Albert]

Because there are still 2 questions unanswered:

1. There is a row of engineering bricks across the middle of the floor - where a wall used to exist. Engineering bricks have cavities in them. What is the best way to fill these cavities before tiling over?

2. What is the best way to set up the transitions between rooms now so that in future when I change the floors in other rooms I can insert the strips between tile and wooden floors (which are currently carpet).

Thanks.

You could stick crack-mat over the bricks

 

[The Legend; Phil Hobson RIP]

I may be off track here, but did the engineering bricks once form a DPM? on an exterior wall has this house been extended? I ask because I saw what looked like black DPM material.

 

[EdMac]

A rapid repair mortar to fill in the voids in the bricks, or mix a bag of self levelling and pour in.


One of these for tile to carpet so it can be swapped when changing over to wood.
View attachment 103470

Thanks Boggs - how quickly can I tile over a repair mortar? And do you have one you'd recommend?

 

[EdMac]

You could stick crack-mat over the bricks

Thanks Albert - I'm using matting in another room but I think here it may raise the level too much above the rest of the floor.

 

[EdMac]

I may be off track here, but did the engineering bricks once form a DPM? on an exterior wall has this house been extended? I ask because I saw what looked like black DPM material.

Hi Phil - the engineering bricks are there because there was an internal wall that turned out to be load bearing so it had 4" blocks sat on the engineering bricks. I have looked at the house plans and it seems the DPM runs under a raft foundation. The engineering bricks run right across the kitchen including where the doorway was. The engineering bricks were exposed in the doorway and it seems they've been mortared over before being tiled over (with the original vinyl put in by the housebuilder). Plus building control had nothing to say about that when they inspected the wall removal and RSJ and they've been a nightmare about DPM in a garage extension. So I'm confident there is no issue there. Do you have other thoughts? (I will start tiling tonight or tomorrow so keen to know if you think there's an issue)

 

[The Legend; Phil Hobson RIP]

Hi Phil - the engineering bricks are there because there was an internal wall that turned out to be load bearing so it had 4" blocks sat on the engineering bricks. I have looked at the house plans and it seems the DPM runs under a raft foundation. The engineering bricks run right across the kitchen including where the doorway was. The engineering bricks were exposed in the doorway and it seems they've been mortared over before being tiled over (with the original vinyl put in by the housebuilder). Plus building control had nothing to say about that when they inspected the wall removal and RSJ and they've been a nightmare about DPM in a garage extension. So I'm confident there is no issue there. Do you have other thoughts? (I will start tiling tonight or tomorrow so keen to know if you think there's an issue)

If all is well as you say.Go for it imho, good luck.