Gyvlon again

[Ajax123]

http://www.hss.com/g/58511/Floor-Scarifier.htmlOr this one

 

[Ajax123]

Moisture testing would generally be the responsibility of the main contractor but obviously in domestics there usually is not one. However if it were me being asked to tile the floor I would want my own piece of mind and test it myself. Testing with a hygrometer is very simple. You stick it the floor and leave it there for 48 to 72 hours and then read it. If it says below the % required by the adhesive ie 75 for cement 85 for gypsum then you are ok to tile. If it is above the numbers it is not ready. Drying depends heavily on site conditions. Warm and well ventillated is best. You can cotract out moisture teting for about £400 but you can buy a hygrometer for £30 so i know which i would do. Calibration is also important to make sure you read accurately. Further advice available on request.

 

[Gazzer]

Advice is good Alan, more the better.
Just been to see the job and explained to the client the issues , they are fine about it. Screed has been down about 6 weeks and there is no rush so plenty more time available. i have instructed them to commission the heating, they haven't as yet.
I am swaying on the use Gypfix adhesive.
I just need to get a price for days hire of sander etc and consumables, ask the builder who supplied the screed ( But I am sure he said LaFarge when we last spoke) and a final chat with Nicobond before putting the quote in.
Thanks for al the help

 

[Gazzer]

Sounds like you've got a right stress on Neale. Though you're onto it and the customers will/should see that. Go price it up as much as you can and tell them you're just waiting for the price to hire a machine and waiting to clarify the moisture thing and get back to them ASAP with that extra info... perhaps?

Not really stressed but fed up with so many opinions of which I dont really go with. You see for me I see the sense in a gypsum adhesive and not priming and SPF adhesive. It rests clear in my mind but I dont go with the way GBTA is sold ie no trade discount or if it is then its very expensive against the price of Nicobond.
Which ever way I turn I just want to sure of a correct job. At the end of the day I am sure all adhesive manufacturers will bring out their own version of Gypsum addys and then it will all be a lot easier.
A little stress now is better than a lot later anyway

 

[Ajax123]

Six weeks it probably won't be dry yet. They should use the heating to force dry it. Switch on at ambient (25degrees) for three days then increase by five degrees per day up to maximum temp of 55 . Don't be scared of high temperature. Leave at this temp for 7 days then drop back to ambient by 5 degree increments per day before switching off for two days before tiling.

 

[Gazzer]

Six weeks it probably won't be dry yet. They should use the heating to force dry it. Switch on at ambient (25degrees) for three days then increase by five degrees per day up to maximum temp of 55 . Don't be scared of high temperature. Leave at this temp for 7 days then drop back to ambient by 5 degree increments per day before switching off for two days before tiling.

Already told them about using the heating. I will insert this into my quote too.

 

[nybor62]

i have use gbta creative impressions addy afew times . goes off like lightning . we only mixed small amounts at a time enough for about 2m2
i did here rumours that they had increased the pot life of it
i would,nt want to use it again , but it works fine had no tiles debonding

 

[Ajax123]

Think they have re tori ares to give longer pot life. Not sure what the pot life I on the nicobond gear. Will find out

 

[Gazzer]

Think they have re tori ares to give longer pot life. Not sure what the pot life I on the nicobond gear. Will find out

• Colour: White
• Max bed thickness: 12 mm
• Coverage: 4 – 4.5kg per m² at 3mm
• Adjustment: 15 – 20 min
• Grouting: Approx 4 hrs
• Pot Life: Approx 45 mins
• Open Time: Approx 20 mins
• Available: 20kg

 

[Ajax123]

I am wondering what r tori ares means...... Damn this touch pad keyboard....

 

[Daz]

i see your problem there Alan, you meant Tori Amos :lol:

‪Tori Amos - Professional Widow‬‏ - YouTube

 

[Gazzer]

Moisture testing would generally be the responsibility of the main contractor but obviously in domestics there usually is not one. However if it were me being asked to tile the floor I would want my own piece of mind and test it myself. Testing with a hygrometer is very simple. You stick it the floor and leave it there for 48 to 72 hours and then read it. If it says below the % required by the adhesive ie 75 for cement 85 for gypsum then you are ok to tile. If it is above the numbers it is not ready. Drying depends heavily on site conditions. Warm and well ventillated is best. You can cotract out moisture teting for about £400 but you can buy a hygrometer for £30 so i know which i would do. Calibration is also important to make sure you read accurately. Further advice available on request.

I must be really thick or paranoid but I cant find suitable Hygrometers anywhere....all I find on flooring webshops is digital which I know is not good ?

 

[Gazzer]

Right todays job is sorting out a suitable floor grinder/scarifier/sander....I will have to visit hire shops in person as phone calls are proving useless.
Adhesive is 99% sorted.
The Hygrometer is seeming to be the hardest to sort at the moment.

 

[Gazzer]

A call from Ardex this morning gave the same info as the majority of manufacturers , dry, sand, prime, tile with your normal adhesive.

 

[stoner]

I did a 50m2 last week. I just used a sander and dust mask. It took me all day, it was like being on beach when i'd done so i hovered it all up and tried again to sand more off and i could barely touch it. 1 coat of bal apd diluted 1:1 left it to dry until next day then 1 coat neat on top. Saturday was a far worse day, 50m2 0f 60x30 porcelain grouted with bal superflex charcoal.

Not laughing!! lol