Hardibacker Tile Backer Board.....any Questions??

[grumpygrouter]

Hello,

I'm in the same position. I have just boarded out a shower area with backer board and was intending to apply a BAL WP1 kit. Why doesn't it need tanking?

Whilst the board is not affected by moisture I didn't think that it provided a waterproof barrier.

Mark

This is one of those funny situations in my opinion. A waterproof coating is there to stop water penetrating to a substrate that will be damaged by water i.e. plasterboard, plywood or mdf for instance. If the substrate will not be affected by contact with water and as a consequence the tiles stay put what is the actual pount of tanking. OK seal the joints but why seal the rest? If a potential leak through the tiles is so serious that it will start to "flood" through the substrate the volume of water would probably stay in the tanked area anyway overflow and run out of the door.....maybe?

Just a thought, what do others think?

 

[Mark B]

This is one of those funny situations in my opinion. A waterproof coating is there to stop water penetrating to a substrate that will be damaged by water i.e. plasterboard, plywood or mdf for instance. If the substrate will not be affected by contact with water and as a consequence the tiles stay put what is the actual pount of tanking. OK seal the joints but why seal the rest? If a potential leak through the tiles is so serious that it will start to "flood" through the substrate the volume of water would probably stay in the tanked area anyway overflow and run out of the door.....maybe?

Just a thought, what do others think?

Grumpy - Thanks for the explanation.

I've got to fill and tape the joints anyway and the shower tray has already had one seal of silicone applied (between the tray and the backer board).

I think I'll give the WP1 a miss on this one and keep it for another job

Mark.

 

[J4CK THE RIPPER]

What is the best way to cut curves in Hardibacker?

 

[Grace'sDad]

What is the best way to cut curves in Hardibacker?

Don't!!! :lol:

 

[CJ]

What is the best way to cut curves in Hardibacker?

Tile blade fitted to a jigsaw.

Smells a bit like November 5th after mind.........and the blades don't last long.

It is good stuff, but a sod to cut.........even with the recommended scoring blade thingy sold by Hardibacker :whatchutalkingabout

 

[DHTiling]

Just use a grinder with a tile blade in...cuts no probs to any shape......

 

[Grace'sDad]

Just use a grinder with a tile blade in...cuts no probs to any shape......

Only... don't do this on the customer's drive next to their BMW M6 which they spent all morning waxing :furious3:
(like I did:joker

 

[DHTiling]

You NEVER did........lol lol lol....you fool.........

 

[White Room]

oops:lol:

 

[Grace'sDad]

I did - I was rushing and didn't notice the big shiny blue car on the drive!

Fortunately, it all rinsed off cleanly with the hosepipe, although he couldn't help but ask me why his car was wet!

 

[DHTiling]

What you say.....OH!!! just a freak rain shower........

 

[Grace'sDad]

No it was more of a cement dust shower - caused by a freak!

 

[CJ]

Only... don't do this on the customer's drive next to their BMW M6 which they spent all morning waxing :furious3:
(like I did:joker

Oh Dear :lol::lol::lol:

 

[jgw1]

When using BAL fast flex adhesive to fix 6mm Hardi to a chipboard floor, what is the recommended depth of adhesive and also for a bonus point preferred trowel (thin bed, thick bed etc.)

 

[grumpygrouter]

I did - I was rushing and didn't notice the big shiny blue car on the drive!

Fortunately, it all rinsed off cleanly with the hosepipe, although he couldn't help but ask me why his car was wet!

PMSL :lol::lol::lol:

 

[grumpygrouter]

When using BAL fast flex adhesive to fix 6mm Hardi to a chipboard floor, what is the recommended depth of adhesive and also for a bonus point preferred trowel (thin bed, thick bed etc.)

Unusual and very expensive combination, what is your reasoning?

 

[jgw1]

Chipboard has vinyl tiles ontop which I want to remove, don't want to tile onto the adhesive.

Although I am a DIYer and this is my first floor tiling.

People have said that I can tile right onto the chipboard but I am unsure what to do about the adhesive - vinyl tiles aren't in good nick.

 

[grumpygrouter]

Chipboard has vinyl tiles ontop which I want to remove, don't want to tile onto the adhesive.

Although I am a DIYer and this is my first floor tiling.

People have said that I can tile right onto the chipboard but I am unsure what to do about the adhesive - vinyl tiles aren't in good nick.

You can tile straight onto chipboard if the conditions are right, but if you have vinyl tiles on the top and they are dodgy you are right to overboard them. if height is not an issue you would be better laying 18mm wbp ply screwed onto your chipboard/vinyl surface.

if you go down this route, you must first ensure that te chipboard is screwed to the joists at not more than 300mm centres and then, depending on your adhesive, seal the underneath and edges of the ply.

Lay the ply across the chipboard flooring i.e. 90deg to the way the chipboard floor runs and screw through into, but not through, the chipboard. You can then tile with normal flexy adhesive which is much cheaper than the way you were going to do it.

 

[jgw1]

I have already bought the Fastflex!

A bit of height is not a problem but not 18mm. Now I have three suggestions how to do it and don't know which is best! Maybe a pic would be in order.

 

[grumpygrouter]

Yes I noticed you had already asked the same question in another thread!

Can you not take the fastflex back and by Single part flexy or even rapidset flexy? Fastflex is not easy to work with and it goes of quickly in the bucket. To be honest if you are going to use fastflex drop the board size down to 12mm. Still much cheaper than Hardie and you don't need to have a layer of addy underneath the board with ply.

 

[jgw1]

Could take it back yes.

I was going to use Fast Flex as I read that it was the best allowing for movement. My place isn't the best built - the joists are at least 450mm spacing ontop of unscreed concrete.

Thought that it was worth putting a bit of cash in to get the job done right.

I'll take a pic then you can see the job.

 

[jgw1]

Like I said here are some pics of the current job:





However rather than hijack a Hardi thread here is a link to my original thread ...

http://www.tilersforums.com/tiling-forum/12226-outline-my-job-comments-welcome.html

 

[mjones29]

In the past i have been given a great deal of help from all the people on this site.
Hope this question will get same response
I need to fix 800mmx120mm 12mm hardibacker board to 12mm wood .Support for wood is on the front therefore i can only glue the two together.Would gripfil adhesive be suitable
Thanks mike

 

[jay]

We dont recommend tanking our board....it will affect the bond between the board and the adhesive....theres not much point anyway as our board will "soak" up any water and will not be affected by it...

:yes:

interesting but as mentioned earlier what about the substrate and :welcome:

 

[Alex 101]

This may be a daft question but can you plaster backer board as i am using a mix of plaster and backer board around a bathroom...?