Discuss Hardibacker Tile Backer Board.....any Questions?? in the British & UK Tiling Forum area at TilersForums.com.

Sean Kelly

TF
Arms
647
1,068
Ruislip
Hello Ash, I tiled a shower last week. The builder put the backerboard on the wrong way round......i.e. I had to tile over the yellow sticker that read 'This side down'!!! Should this make any difference? Thanks in advance. Sean
 
G

grumpygrouter

Hello Ash, I tiled a shower last week. The builder put the backerboard on the wrong way round......i.e. I had to tile over the yellow sticker that read 'This side down'!!! Should this make any difference? Thanks in advance. Sean
I don't think this is significant. I believe that one side is smooth just to give a "nicer" surface to tile on to.
 
M

Matthew77

:welcome2::welcome2::welcome2::welcome2::welcome2::welcome2::welcome2::welcome2::welcome2::welcome2:

Hi Ash

I'm wondering what the spec of these boards are compared to ply regarding rigedness & thickness?

I have a floor that is chipboard ontop of existing floorboards,the chipboard is rotted out so i'm going to take that up, screw all the existing floor boards down & was hoping to replace it with 6mm hardibacker & tile straight ontop of that, would that be rigid enough?

Thanks
 
H

Hardibacker Rep

:welcome2::welcome2::welcome2::welcome2::welcome2::welcome2::welcome2::welcome2::welcome2::welcome2:

Hi Ash

I'm wondering what the spec of these boards are compared to ply regarding rigedness & thickness?

I have a floor that is chipboard ontop of existing floorboards,the chipboard is rotted out so i'm going to take that up, screw all the existing floor boards down & was hoping to replace it with 6mm hardibacker & tile straight ontop of that, would that be rigid enough?

Thanks


As long as the floor is stable and there will be little movement as in line with the building regs (3mm over 4qm) then it will be fine....you also have to put a layer of adhesive on top of the floor boards (under the hardibacker) as a void filler....

The nature of our product, being cement based, makes it a much more stable product to tile onto...however it isnt there to strengthen the floor...the floor must be suitable before hand....
 
H

Hardibacker Rep

How about that old chestnut - Tanking?
Does Hardibacker require sealing, or like Aquapanel, is this not recommended and does it affect the 'warranty'?

I'm in the process of installing a new bathroom and have decided to tank the panels, so would be interested to get your view on this.

We dont recommend tanking our board....it will affect the bond between the board and the adhesive....theres not much point anyway as our board will "soak" up any water and will not be affected by it...

:yes:
 
M

Mark B

We dont recommend tanking our board....it will affect the bond between the board and the adhesive....theres not much point anyway as our board will "soak" up any water and will not be affected by it...

:yes:

Hello,

I'm in the same position. I have just boarded out a shower area with backer board and was intending to apply a BAL WP1 kit. Why doesn't it need tanking?

Whilst the board is not affected by moisture I didn't think that it provided a waterproof barrier.

Mark
 
G

grumpygrouter

Hello,

I'm in the same position. I have just boarded out a shower area with backer board and was intending to apply a BAL WP1 kit. Why doesn't it need tanking?

Whilst the board is not affected by moisture I didn't think that it provided a waterproof barrier.

Mark
This is one of those funny situations in my opinion. A waterproof coating is there to stop water penetrating to a substrate that will be damaged by water i.e. plasterboard, plywood or mdf for instance. If the substrate will not be affected by contact with water and as a consequence the tiles stay put what is the actual pount of tanking. OK seal the joints but why seal the rest? If a potential leak through the tiles is so serious that it will start to "flood" through the substrate the volume of water would probably stay in the tanked area anyway overflow and run out of the door.....maybe?

Just a thought, what do others think?
 
M

Mark B

This is one of those funny situations in my opinion. A waterproof coating is there to stop water penetrating to a substrate that will be damaged by water i.e. plasterboard, plywood or mdf for instance. If the substrate will not be affected by contact with water and as a consequence the tiles stay put what is the actual pount of tanking. OK seal the joints but why seal the rest? If a potential leak through the tiles is so serious that it will start to "flood" through the substrate the volume of water would probably stay in the tanked area anyway overflow and run out of the door.....maybe?

Just a thought, what do others think?

Grumpy - Thanks for the explanation.

I've got to fill and tape the joints anyway and the shower tray has already had one seal of Silicon applied (between the tray and the backer board).

I think I'll give the WP1 a miss on this one and keep it for another job :thumbsup:

Mark.
 

CJ

TF
Arms
444
1,088
Somerset
What is the best way to cut curves in Hardibacker?



Tile blade fitted to a jigsaw.

Smells a bit like November 5th after mind.........and the blades don't last long.

It is good stuff, but a sod to cut.........even with the recommended scoring blade thingy sold by Hardibacker :whatchutalkingabout
 

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Hardibacker Tile Backer Board.....any Questions??
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