Hardibacker Tile Backer Board.....any Questions??

[jgw1]

Could take it back yes.

I was going to use Fast Flex as I read that it was the best allowing for movement. My place isn't the best built - the joists are at least 450mm spacing ontop of unscreed concrete.

Thought that it was worth putting a bit of cash in to get the job done right.

I'll take a pic then you can see the job.

 

[jgw1]

Like I said here are some pics of the current job:





However rather than hijack a Hardi thread here is a link to my original thread ...

http://www.tilersforums.com/tiling-forum/12226-outline-my-job-comments-welcome.html

 

[mjones29]

In the past i have been given a great deal of help from all the people on this site.
Hope this question will get same response
I need to fix 800mmx120mm 12mm hardibacker board to 12mm wood .Support for wood is on the front therefore i can only glue the two together.Would gripfil adhesive be suitable
Thanks mike

 

[jay]

We dont recommend tanking our board....it will affect the bond between the board and the adhesive....theres not much point anyway as our board will "soak" up any water and will not be affected by it...

:yes:

interesting but as mentioned earlier what about the substrate and :welcome:

 

[Alex 101]

This may be a daft question but can you plaster backer board as i am using a mix of plaster and backer board around a bathroom...?

 

[diamondtiling]

This may be a daft question but can you plaster backer board as i am using a mix of plaster and backer board around a bathroom...?

A plastered surface takes less weight than bare plasterboard or aqua panels etc. Are you plastering over plasterboard?

 

[mikethetile]

I wouldnt as backer is the ideal surface to tile too

 

[White Room]

This may be a daft question but can you plaster backer board as i am using a mix of plaster and backer board around a bathroom...?

The backer board will drag the water from the plaster so fast it will be next to useless

 

[Matthew77]

This may be a daft question but can you plaster backer board as i am using a mix of plaster and backer board around a bathroom...?

I'm presuming that you intend on stopping off your tiles at a certain height and then having plaster and paint above?

If so then I'd backerboard upto the height of tiles and plasterboard and plaster above that using moisture resistant plasterboard. When you skim the plasterboard just come down to the backerboard, leaving the backerboard ready to tile straight onto.
Matt

 

[White Room]

British Gypsum recommend that MR board is pva'd before skimming, I would go for a standard board

 

[proto]

Hello everyone!

I'm new to this forum, so please be kind .

Anyway, I am having my ground floor tiled over with porcelain tiles and underfloor heating, and considering whether to use hardibacker or ply.

I've just had the suspended floorboards/joists etc renewed, so the floor is pretty much level, and maybe has a small amount of flex on boards. Initial plan was to lay 12mm/15mm (what thickness is adequate?) ply and tile over. However, we were thinking that the hardibacker might provide better insulation for the undertile heating and make it more efficient over ply? Thats the main motive I suppose for installing.

Also, a Topps Tiles rep we talked to said we could simply screw down the hardibacker without having to use adhesive. That seems to conflict with the information I gathered from this forum, although our floor is already fairly level, can we get away with it? Don't really want to have to buy more adhesive.

Main question I suppose is whether the hardibacker going to provide more efficient undertile heating over ply, we want to minimize heat loss into the cavity of our suspended flooring.

Thanks for your help, keep up the great work!

 

[mikethetile]

ply needs to be a minimum of 15mm wbp wwhich isnt readily available so next size up is 18mm, its a shame you replaced the floorboards as you could have plyed onto the joists, you really dont want any deflection at all in the floor

theres not much to be gained from laying backerboard under your ufh you would be better using marmox board as it has good insulation properties.

use self levelling compound over your ufh and then tile

 

[proto]

ply needs to be a minimum of 15mm wbp wwhich isnt readily available so next size up is 18mm, its a shame you replaced the floorboards as you could have plyed onto the joists, you really dont want any deflection at all in the floor

theres not much to be gained from laying backerboard under your ufh you would be better using marmox board as it has good insulation properties.

use self levelling compound over your ufh and then tile

Thanks for your advice, sorry about my late reply :/.

I was thinking of putting 12mm hardibacker ontop of the floorboards, with the warmup system ontop instead of ply, but I guess ply is what im going to go for. Insulation boards unfortunately will add too much to the floor height :S.

Ply should be able to withstand the ufh shouldnt it? Is there anything worth adding on top such as a primer? Any recommendations?

Cheers

 

[ceekay]

Im Ash the Hardibacker Rep for the North of England and Scotland.....if anyone has any questions about installation, technical details or would just like to know more about our range of products please dont hesitate to get in contact.....

Ash[/QUOTE]

Hi Ash, can I dot and dab hardibacker to brick/block walls or does it need to be framed out?

Thanks, Keith

 

[DHTiling]

Hi Keith.. no you cannot dot and dab it.. but it can be solid bed fixed nand screwed and plugged or framed as you say..

Here is a pdf of how to install direct to walls..

HardieBacker EN installation 200810 masonry walls.pdf