Hardibacker Tile Backer Board.....any Questions??

[diamondtiling]

This may be a daft question but can you plaster backer board as i am using a mix of plaster and backer board around a bathroom...?

A plastered surface takes less weight than bare plasterboard or aqua panels etc. Are you plastering over plasterboard?

 

[mikethetile]

I wouldnt as backer is the ideal surface to tile too

 

[White Room]

This may be a daft question but can you plaster backer board as i am using a mix of plaster and backer board around a bathroom...?

The backer board will drag the water from the plaster so fast it will be next to useless

 

[Matthew77]

This may be a daft question but can you plaster backer board as i am using a mix of plaster and backer board around a bathroom...?

I'm presuming that you intend on stopping off your tiles at a certain height and then having plaster and paint above?

If so then I'd backerboard upto the height of tiles and plasterboard and plaster above that using moisture resistant plasterboard. When you skim the plasterboard just come down to the backerboard, leaving the backerboard ready to tile straight onto.
Matt

 

[White Room]

British Gypsum recommend that MR board is pva'd before skimming, I would go for a standard board

 

[proto]

Hello everyone!

I'm new to this forum, so please be kind .

Anyway, I am having my ground floor tiled over with porcelain tiles and underfloor heating, and considering whether to use hardibacker or ply.

I've just had the suspended floorboards/joists etc renewed, so the floor is pretty much level, and maybe has a small amount of flex on boards. Initial plan was to lay 12mm/15mm (what thickness is adequate?) ply and tile over. However, we were thinking that the hardibacker might provide better insulation for the undertile heating and make it more efficient over ply? Thats the main motive I suppose for installing.

Also, a Topps Tiles rep we talked to said we could simply screw down the hardibacker without having to use adhesive. That seems to conflict with the information I gathered from this forum, although our floor is already fairly level, can we get away with it? Don't really want to have to buy more adhesive.

Main question I suppose is whether the hardibacker going to provide more efficient undertile heating over ply, we want to minimize heat loss into the cavity of our suspended flooring.

Thanks for your help, keep up the great work!

 

[mikethetile]

ply needs to be a minimum of 15mm wbp wwhich isnt readily available so next size up is 18mm, its a shame you replaced the floorboards as you could have plyed onto the joists, you really dont want any deflection at all in the floor

theres not much to be gained from laying backerboard under your ufh you would be better using marmox board as it has good insulation properties.

use self levelling compound over your ufh and then tile

 

[proto]

ply needs to be a minimum of 15mm wbp wwhich isnt readily available so next size up is 18mm, its a shame you replaced the floorboards as you could have plyed onto the joists, you really dont want any deflection at all in the floor

theres not much to be gained from laying backerboard under your ufh you would be better using marmox board as it has good insulation properties.

use self levelling compound over your ufh and then tile

Thanks for your advice, sorry about my late reply :/.

I was thinking of putting 12mm hardibacker ontop of the floorboards, with the warmup system ontop instead of ply, but I guess ply is what im going to go for. Insulation boards unfortunately will add too much to the floor height :S.

Ply should be able to withstand the ufh shouldnt it? Is there anything worth adding on top such as a primer? Any recommendations?

Cheers

 

[ceekay]

Im Ash the Hardibacker Rep for the North of England and Scotland.....if anyone has any questions about installation, technical details or would just like to know more about our range of products please dont hesitate to get in contact.....

Ash[/QUOTE]

Hi Ash, can I dot and dab hardibacker to brick/block walls or does it need to be framed out?

Thanks, Keith

 

[DHTiling]

Hi Keith.. no you cannot dot and dab it.. but it can be solid bed fixed nand screwed and plugged or framed as you say..

Here is a pdf of how to install direct to walls..

HardieBacker EN installation 200810 masonry walls.pdf

 

[ceekay]

Hi Ash,
A couple of things. Im going to use hardibacker 500 in my ensuite. I will be fixing to 3 different surfaces, Block, Brick and 4x2 Stud. What will i need exactly in the way of fixings etc for these surfaces? Also I have been advised just to use the green coated moisure resistant plasterboard for the ceilings do you agree and if so i take it you can skim plaster this? If I decide to tile the floor should I use hardibacker 250 over t & g floorplanks? I take it you cannot skim hardibacker if you wished? And finally where can I buy it around the Bury, Lancs area including the fixings you will suggest. Alot of people who stock it dont seem to carry the fixings and tell you to just use adheshive and plugs and srews?
Hope you can help, Cheers, Keith

 

[breton]

hey ash
Do you reckon hardibacker is as good as ply for overboarding,as i have an old victorian lounge to do in travertine 600 x 450 and was going to ply it after checking floor strength of course, and how thick are the panels regarding ridgidity

ta
breton

 

[Gazzer]

hey ash
Do you reckon hardibacker is as good as ply for overboarding,as i have an old victorian lounge to do in travertine 600 x 450 and was going to ply it after checking floor strength of course, and how thick are the panels regarding ridgidity

ta
breton

If the floor is solid and free of deflection then backerboards are the way to go. If the floor is "bouncy" then strengthen it before laying backer boards.

 

[DazJWood]

We dont recommend tanking our board....it will affect the bond between the board and the adhesive....theres not much point anyway as our board will "soak" up any water and will not be affected by it...

:yes:

This is an interesting reply because I asked the very same question, (around the beginning of the year - 2010), via an email to Hardie and received a reply saying that tanking would be beneficial in order to waterproof the area where it was being used.

I would like to understand how it affects the bond between the board and the adhesive because I now have Homelux matting installed over Hardiebacker in my shower area on the advice of Hardie. This also has heavy travertine tiles installed. Should I now be worried? And why is differing advice being given out?

Daz

 

[penno]

I have to start laying 40 meters of the stuff tomorrow. I am so not looking forward to it, boards need cutting all kinds of shapes P.S. When testing the Hardi knife did you use David Haye? Superb product but a bit of a pain to cut. Think tomorrow will try Daves suggestion of using a grinder, spent a fortune on jigsaw blades, only last 2 minutes.

 

[DHTiling]

Hi mat.. i use my grinder/turbo blade all the time,, dust mask on and fly through them.. L cuts you name it..

 

[Scott]

Get yourself a decent mask!

 

[penno]

Don't mind a bit of dust up the nose tbh, gives me something to go at when i am stuck in traffic on the way home

 

[terrycoe1]

We dont recommend tanking our board....it will affect the bond between the board and the adhesive....theres not much point anyway as our board will "soak" up any water and will not be affected by it...

:yes:

just asked this exact question ! if it was a wet room would you tank and if it was like a shower over bath you wouldnt reccomending tanking ??

 

[Dan]

Wow I forgot he used to hang around on here a while ago. 2008 this thread started!

 

[terrycoe1]

Dug this out of the ark Clive's

 

[White Room]

just asked this exact question ! if it was a wet room would you tank and if it was like a shower over bath you wouldnt reccomending tanking ??

If the shower is in heavy use the Hardie will soak up water but it can only soak up so much before it has to release the excess...to the ceiling underneath the shower room.