Help me correct a handful of errors of mine please?

[White Room]

Rather than bring the wall out with adhesive could you not do it with plaster bonding , a much more cost effective method.

Concidering bonding has become finer, some plasterers claim it feels like it's mixed with browning as well, not for tiling on.

 

[micko]

but not a suitable substrate to tile onto....

Just a thought, I’m not a tiler as you can probably guess

 

[TrustNige]

hi cornish
Had the same problem before Christmas and I know this sounds mad but I simply cut the tiles with a diamond grinder bit from 365. Looked spot on!
Nige

 

[andy8758]

Cornish crofter - this thread is now 3 weeks old - so hopefully you have solved the problem, and started a less frustrating job!! However, I had 2 thoughts when reading this litany of woe:

1 - You had a 6mm run out at the bottom - perfect for 6mm tile backer board screwed and rawlplugged - you could probably even manage a 1mm adhesive bed for it too. Ultimately this would give you a more accurate wall than trying to render it with addy.

2 - I find nearly every job I take on provides a new challenge to work around. The trick is to recognise the challenge first, look at the options to overcome, then crack on with the job. Course thats easy to say sat at a computer desk, but I work on the basis that folks dont hire a tiler if it is an easy tiling job!

So let us know how it turned out - I remember reading a thread from you before Xmas about giving up tiling - if you were viewing the trade from a problem job then it always seems depressing. I pohotograph all my completed work. When I am facing probglems, I just review the beautiful work I have previously done, it inspires me to have another crack at the problem and attack it from a different angle.

 

[cornish_crofter]

Thanks Andy

Yes, this job is now finished. I got round 2 of the problems and compromised on the third - the 1 inch strips of tiles.

In the end, after I had levelled out the RHS wall after tiling the back wall 😳I found that the tiles on the RHS of the back wall butted up quite neatly into the corner. That left the strip of tiles to the left, which the customer really wasn't bothered about. In actual fact the LHS of the wall is boxed out by about 100mm plus and it looks like the tiles are centralised to the room, but not the back wall, if that makes sense. So, asthetically it isn't so bad as it could be.

With regard to the 6mm kick out at the bottom. The hardibacker idea is a very good one, and I had used exactly that approach in another corner where I was going onto studwork (side of the 100mm boxing in). I used strips of 6mm hardibacker screwed in - I had them left over from another job, and filled in any gaps with tile adhesive. What made it easier here was that I was tiling all the way to the ceiling. On the wall in question I was only tiling half way up. But I filled and levelled it with rapid set and it worked a treat. I got it pretty level, which made the tiling a lot easier.

Thirdly, the towel rail. That was an absolute doddle!

The approach was to position the towel rail vertical and measure to the wall. The wall in question sloped out a bit (but on the flat) so I measured and cut the brackets using an adjustable pipeslice. I then redrilled the screw holes through both the outer and inner sleeve after having set them in position. It was almost as quick as fitting it normally. In time I'll post some pictures of how I did it on the open forum.

Thanks again for all your input guys.

 

[Alberta Stone]

So I am not sure I understand fully why the bottom of the wall had the kerdi tape in the first place.???
Was the wall getting kerdi also?
or was it just to provide a waterproofing at the bottom?

 

[cornish_crofter]

So I am not sure I understand fully why the bottom of the wall had the kerdi tape in the first place.???
Was the wall getting kerdi also?
or was it just to provide a waterproofing at the bottom?

Because there is ditra matt on the floor and the kerdi tape was being used to prevent standing water getting into the wall. The old woden floor had been removed and there were holes in the wall where the joists had been, plus others for one reason or another at floor level. The areas that needed to be tanked were treated with Weber tanking kit - paint on. The main problem, hence the kerdi tape was only applied to the corners.

 

[Alberta Stone]

I would think that the kerdi tape could be cut flush with the tops of the installed floor tiles and the thinset and whatever be rasped back to rid the 6mm kick out problem and then you could paint on a liquid waterproofing like Mapei HPG on the lower wall to provide insurance against leakage, which, since it is merely a standard wall, is going to be minimal and even a proper Silicon joint would be as effective as the kerdi to keep any occasional water from mopping or whatever from getting behind the tile or into the wall/floor.
If it was going to be a highly wet area then it would be critical, but it isn't, so it is a bit much, which posed an extra problem as a result.
You will certainly spot that kind of issue in the future before the floor tile are finished, that is for sure. 😉

 

[Alberta Stone]

I would think that the kerdi tape could be cut flush with the tops of the installed floor tiles and the thinset and whatever be rasped back to rid the 6mm kick out problem and then you could paint on a liquid waterproofing like Mapei HPG on the lower wall to provide insurance against leakage, which, since it is merely a standard wall, is going to be minimal and even a proper Silicon joint would be as effective as the kerdi to keep any occasional water from mopping or whatever from getting behind the tile or into the wall/floor.
If it was going to be a highly wet area then it would be critical, but it isn't, so it is a bit much, which posed an extra problem as a result.
You will certainly spot that kind of issue in the future before the floor tile are finished, that is for sure. 😉

 

[cornish_crofter]

It's all done now, but that is something to think about.

The only problem with the Silicon joints is that in this respect I didn't want them to be the only defence against ingress. The reason is because the condensation in the room when I was doing them was absolutely unbelievable. I was dabbing paper towel into the 2mm gaps I'd left to try and dry it out and if I then left it for more than a few minutes before applying the Silicon, it just wouldn't take as the moisture from above and around had got back in there. Hence if there were small areas of the od couple ofmm or so where the Silicon hadn't fully bonded then it shouldn't be an issue either asthetically or functionally.