help me please

Tilers Forums Official Sponsors

plaster board adhesive will be fine mate, yes dab and dot and use spirit level to level. Yo don't really need to put that much adhesive on to fix. Do not not use nails or normal screws they will rust and react with adhesive.
----
no need for screws just pointed that out incase
 
Last edited by a moderator:
could i use 6ml backer board or does it have to be 9ml.... the guy at ctd said 6ml for floors and 9ml for walls or it could be 12ml???? also properjob how much would you charge for a bathroom 3 walls with window 10m2 that is 8 plain 100ml tiles and 2 mt of mosaic??? i told them ?200 that was brick bond large tiles .. price for fitting tiles and not backer board... changed quite a bit i should imagine
 
even if there skimmed mate doesn't mean to say there going to be sound, Unless they get a good plasterer to use guide pins and make flat as pancake. Plaster boarded would be a lot faster and a lot stronger also you would tile it quicker.


As being a plasterer as well, Please have faith in the guy's. Their's a tool you don't see alot used nowaday's called a skimming float, made of wood, normally yellow pine so it dos'nt distort, used in the day's of three coat work with skimming. That will keep the wall's flat or even with skimmed the wall's can be ruled off.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
even if there skimmed mate doesn't mean to say there going to be sound, Unless they get a good plasterer to use guide pins and make flat as pancake. Plaster boarded would be a lot faster and a lot stronger also you would tile it quicker.
Good advice proper job and as you say not all plasterers use this technique hence the walls still not being flat.:thumbsup:Dot and dab would be my preference.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
would you trust dot and dab onto poo walls


If the wall's are hollow I would take the lot off and dry line, To dry line on to existing wall's you are bringing the wall surface out quite a bit, Also with dab's of adhesive for the board's don't make the addy to thin or push the board's to tight to the existing wall otherwise it will be next to useless.
 
If the wall's are hollow I would take the lot off and dry line, To dry line on to existing wall's you are bringing the wall surface out quite a bit, Also with dab's of adhesive for the board's don't make the addy to thin or push the board's to tight to the existing wall otherwise it will be next to useless.
good advice which is especially true if you dont get the levels straight around windows when d&d ing.Tiles will jut out making the job look s h i t e.:thumbsup:
 

Advertisement

Weekly Email Digest

Back
Top

Click Here to Register for Free / Remove Ad